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Replace stator as a maintenance item?

LAB3

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I've been wondering, with the attention put on charging systems coupled with the fact I literally carry everything I own on my bike in the summer months, would it make sense to replace a stator as a maintenance item? I've already replaced the regulator with a SH775 and will be putting in a fresh AGM battery before spring. Since I'm in a spot to work out of the weather and have an address to ship parts to it makes sense to do whatever work I can now so I don't end up stranded in Bugtussle, WV waiting for a part. It might not be a bad idea to have one on hand either but that just makes for one more thing to haul and keep track of. If I where to get one, which brand or source would you suggest? I've seen them pretty cheap but that often means a sacrifice in quality.
 
With a series r/r a stator is not a maintenance item. With the shunt style it is.
 
Not sure I'd change a working stator but having one in the spare bin wouldn't hurt.
 
On where I had up to four GS850, 1100, and 1000, on family tours, my plan was to buy a spare battery if I had a charging problem. Rotate the battery through the fleet so there is always a charged spare. Pull the headlight fuse on the non charging bike. The ignition it self uses very little electricity. I've ridden hundreds of miles with a dead charging system, and that was after I noticed that the volt meter was in the red. It was caused by a worn brush on a CBX alternator. I've never replaced a Stator though. Some long trips We motel it, because you can get more miles in a day that way, and time is often at a premium. A battery tender on the spare in that case.

That was just a contingency plan, it was never implemented.
 
One option would be to pull the stator cover to visually inspect the stator, if it has been overheating some poles (typically the upper) will be crispy brown or even somewhat burnt looking. May pass all the voltage test and and ohm checks but if the lacquer-insulation has been overheated the stator marginally close to complete failure.

Here is what mine looked like (in the hands of our buddy Brian bwringer) after completly failing and stranding me 200 miles from home
qnqLK7O.jpg
 
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One option would be to pull the stator cover to visually inspect the stator, if it has been overheating some poles (typically the upper) will be crispy brown or even somewhat burnt looking. May pass all the voltage test and and ohm checks but if the lacquer-insulation has been overheated the stator marginally close to complete failure.

.

That is a good idea, however, if he did that already when switching to the SH-775 then probably not needed, even if you want to be anal.

With a series R/R we have finally been seeing stators fail due to mechanical vibration (failure of the stator lead solder connections). This at the 20K + mileage mark and above. We don't really have enough history of this occurring to be able to accurately estimate a maintenance cycle (very much manufactures specific as well) which is why I say the stator is not a maintenance item.
 
I'd sacrifice a stator cover gasket to take a look at it.

On my GS850 and others, I've replaced these with a stator from a late-model GS500 in good condition. On long trips, I do carry a spare stator from a GS500.

GS500 stators are cheap if you can catch a deal on fleaBay, but mostly I feel a little better with OEM quality parts. I'm not sure who currently makes the best aftermarket stuff or does good rewinds.

As one data point, my original stator made it to 102,000 with a Honda shunt R/R in place since about 24K. I'm at about 135,000 now, and just installed an SH775.


Later model Suzukis suffer from the same issues as well; I recently installed an SH775 on my V-Strom DL1000. And last winter, I pulled the stator cover to take a good look and reassure myself. The peace of mind was well worth a few bucks for a gasket and a bit of time.
 
Just as a measure of re-assurance:
For the past three years or so I've been deliberately running a fairly cooked-looking stator with an SH775 just to see how long it would keep going with normal loads, including headlight, auxiliary lights when I need them, heated grips, etc. I have no problem with the idea of a breakdown leaving me stranded, as the voltage gauge will tell me when it ceases to work, and the bike is only ever 20 miles from base, so getting back on battery power is not a problem
So far, so good; I am utterly sure that stator would have breathed its last if there had still been a shunt RR on there.
However, now that I've got the bike nearly at at top-end-back-on stage, I might as well pop the stator cover and just replace the thing with a new or known-fresh one, since I've proved my point, at least to myself.
 
Just as a measure of re-assurance:
For the past three years or so I've been deliberately running a fairly cooked-looking stator with an SH775 just to see how long it would keep going with normal loads, including headlight, auxiliary lights when I need them, heated grips, etc. I have no problem with the idea of a breakdown leaving me stranded, as the voltage gauge will tell me when it ceases to work, and the bike is only ever 20 miles from base, so getting back on battery power is not a problem
So far, so good; I am utterly sure that stator would have breathed its last if there had still been a shunt RR on there.
However, now that I've got the bike nearly at at top-end-back-on stage, I might as well pop the stator cover and just replace the thing with a new or known-fresh one, since I've proved my point, at least to myself.

You can also check the new one after a short period to see if it has discoloration. This baby blue one showed discoloration after 250 miles with a MOSFET R/R.
You ca nsee here I installed sprayer before I even got a series R/R. 1166 16V
attachment.php
 
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I'd sacrifice a stator cover gasket to take a look at it.

On my GS850 and others, I've replaced these with a stator from a late-model GS500 in good condition. On long trips, I do carry a spare stator from a GS500.

GS500 stators are cheap if you can catch a deal on fleaBay, but mostly I feel a little better with OEM quality parts. I'm not sure who currently makes the best aftermarket stuff or does good rewinds.

As one data point, my original stator made it to 102,000 with a Honda shunt R/R in place since about 24K. I'm at about 135,000 now, and just installed an SH775.


Later model Suzukis suffer from the same issues as well; I recently installed an SH775 on my V-Strom DL1000. And last winter, I pulled the stator cover to take a good look and reassure myself. The peace of mind was well worth a few bucks for a gasket and a bit of time.

I got rid of all of my GS850 except for one that I bought with 1000 miles, used it as a loaner, and it has been parked (and prepped for storage) for years with 11,000 miles. Stock except the Gold Wing R/R. I do have a couple GS1000G, one with an '83 1100G motor, and my brother's 1100G I try to help maintain. What later stators do you think I should be looking at? I did buy a replacement 850G stator, but never installed it, due to incorrect testing performed on the original. Got to get a good connection on those test leads. It tested bad due to a bad connection on my test lead, which was fixed before the new stator showed up, so I didn't need it. Naturally, it isn't in the same state as my last GS850. What else will that fit?
 
Broadly speaking...

Most of the 1980+ GS450-850 models can use the same stator. Some early models (up to 1979) use a 12 pole stator that is not compatible with the 18 pole stator used from 1980+, so you have to be aware of that.

The GS1000 and 1100 models and some later 16 valve 700 and 750 models use a different, larger stator.

There are a few different connectors used, but these should be removed and replaced with high-quality crimped connections or soldered if you don't have a good crimper. Under no circumstances should those gawdawful bullet connectors be allowed anywhere except in the trash.

Don't take any of this as gospel, just an indication that there's a lot of cross-compatibility in GS stators; there are basically only three main types. Verify the physical dimensions and numbers of poles for any stator you're considering. The connectors don't matter since you're going to chop them off anyway.

RM Stator has ID, OD, and thickness specs for many GS stators, which can be a big help in cross-referencing.
https://www.rmstator.com

That said, you still have to be careful -- for example, they falsely list the 1979 GS850 as using the same stator as the later models. (The '79 model uses a 12 pole stator, so you'd need a rotor from a later model in order to use an 18 pole stator.)
https://www.rmstator.com/en_ww/prod...0-1000-1100-gr-650-tempter-1979-1984-rm01081#
 
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I had to replace my stator last summer. It had been running off the battery (for about 100 miles per charge). So I knew it was time to install the sh775 I already had waiting. Did that, replaced stator (all poles black) and got everything back together, and now the headlight is brighter, indicator lights are brighter, and both turn signals work properly. Why did I wait so long? Well duh..........guess I'm not as bright as the headlight. There should be no need for another stator for a LONG time, right?
 
Broadly speaking...

Most of the 1980+ GS450-850 models can use the same stator. Some early models (up to 1979) use a 12 pole stator that is not compatible with the 18 pole stator used from 1980+, so you have to be aware of that.
Also "broadly speaking", ... my experience has shown that if your bike has a kick starter, it uses a 12-pole stator. :-k

.
 
Thanks for everyone's input on this, I'll probably pull of the cover just out of curiosity.
 
Once the cover is off you are half way to a new stator -- they are not so expensive to just do it ...
And then have a known good one as a spare (small enough to stuff in a saddlebag on a long ride...
Just my 2? - because I did it...
 
Thanks for everyone's input on this, I'll probably pull of the cover just out of curiosity.

Curiosity at this time of year is good, as you have plenty of time to make a rational and well researched decision about what is in there. I'm not all that trusting of aftermarket stators being wound with the sort of wire I like to use and being properly potted. OTOH rewinding your own is a lot of work. I've had great results with polyimide coated wire; look into the properties of various insulating coatings as the range of temperature resistance is quite significant. Magnet Wire Services - if they still exist - had specs charts online.

I'd rather trust an OEM from a GS500 or similar that is in good condition over a who knows what. But I recall looking at the stator from an SV650 and it looked like the only difference was in the wiring lead. Given that the SV is liquid cooled I'd expect it to be less temperature stressed than a GS one.

Whatever you do, I'd at least replace the three cross head screws that hold it in with socket heads [and some blue loctite] so you don't need to deal with an impact driver on the road. Same goes for any other cross head case screws and such.

And the last few years I've been running one from a 1980 400 that I got on Ebay for $14. 450s run pretty cool - lots of fins and a big sump - and with an SH775 they just don't seem very problematic.
 
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Once the cover is off you are half way to a new stator -- they are not so expensive to just do it ...
And then have a known good one as a spare (small enough to stuff in a saddlebag on a long ride...
Just my 2? - because I did it...

I did the same. No evidence thereof. Except some photos that I'll never locate until I stumble upon them years from now. I brought the spare with me to Brown County, just in case. Even later, when I came on a Goldwing. Just in case. Odds are reasonable that it'll come in handy for somebody.
 
Curiosity at this time of year is good, as you have plenty of time to make a rational and well researched decision about what is in there. I'm not all that trusting of aftermarket stators being wound with the sort of wire I like to use and being properly potted. OTOH rewinding your own is a lot of work. I've had great results with polyimide coated wire; look into the properties of various insulating coatings as the range of temperature resistance is quite significant. Magnet Wire Services - if they still exist - had specs charts online.

I'd rather trust an OEM from a GS500 or similar that is in good condition over a who knows what. But I recall looking at the stator from an SV650 and it looked like the only difference was in the wiring lead. Given that the SV is liquid cooled I'd expect it to be less temperature stressed than a GS one.

Whatever you do, I'd at least replace the three cross head screws that hold it in with socket heads [and some blue loctite] so you don't need to deal with an impact driver on the road. Same goes for any other cross thread case screws and such.

And the last few years I've been running one from a 1980 400 that I got on Ebay for $14. 450s run pretty cool - lots of fins and a big sump - and with an SH775 they just don't seem very problematic.
Nice synopsis.
 
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