silly question but here goes

[Guest]

I'm getting ready to do the fork seals on my 1100, I have the clymer manual but do I really need to tear the forks completly apart just to change the seals? I've never done anything like this and I dont want to screw something up.

 

[Steve]

Yep. :-\\\

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[Guest]

Well darn i'll just have to keep my fingers crossed that I dont screw anything up lol.

 

[bonanzadave]

Yep. :-\\\

Cant you slide the forks out of the trees with the front wheel attached. Pull the old seals and then slide the new seals down the fork tubes ??

 

[Baatfam]

It's really not that hard to do and you should clean them out anyway...

BassCliff has a link on his site that is pretty helpful.

 

[Billy Ricks]

I'd strip them down and flush everything out with kerosene or diesel if it were me. I'd also consider new bushings while in there.

 

[Turtleface]

Well darn i'll just have to keep my fingers crossed that I dont screw anything up lol.

Pay real close attention to the order that things come out in. It's pretty important to make sure everything goes back in properly. If you don't have one, a fork oil level tool makes things easy. There are some other bits that are nice to have. You need a tool to hold the damper rod while you unbolt the allen bolt hidden by the axle. You can use a 5/8 spark plug socket turned around and tapped onto a 1/2 extension. I'll post some pics when I get home, I botched one of my fork seals during installation, and am going to be pulling a fork apart to fix it.

 

[spyug]

Cant you slide the forks out of the trees with the front wheel attached. Pull the old seals and then slide the new seals down the fork tubes ??

No. As Turtle mentions the damper rod holds the upper fork ( chrome) in place and it has to come out in order to get to the seal.

As he also mentions, its important to keep track of the bits and pieces as they come out. Once the fork is apart the lowers need to be cleaned out as there will be gunk at the bottom. Kerosene or mineral spirits will do it. I use a bottle brush made for cleaning wine/beer carboys.

To get the old seals out, the easiest method I've developed is to use a dremel tool with cut off wheel. Cut through the seal in two places about a 1/4" apart, insert a flat blade screwdriver and they'll pop out.

Putting new ones in smear the outer surface with grease and drive them in with a piece of plastic pipe or a socket of approximately the same size.

Reassemble all the bits and pieces and don't forget to put some thread lock fluid on the thread of the damper bolt.

This is not a hard job, you just need to be organized and keep track of thing.

Review the tutorials and go for it.

Once you've done it, you'll wonder what all the fuss was about.

Cheers,
Spyug

 

[omaharj]

A couple points. Here's a link to a Honda fork seal replacement.Sohc Honda CB750 Fork Seal replacement and fork fix. They're all similar and could be helpful when added to Bikecliff's info. I've done this procedure and was almost paralyzed at the apparent complexity. I made up problems because i couldn't believe it was that easy! Putting a wooden pole or dowel down the tube to get that nut(?) off the bottom is crucial. All that stuff inside (the exploded diagram in parts fiche) stays together pretty well. If it does get away from you those parts diagrams will save you. Loosening (but not taking off) the top nut capsconfused above the triple trees has to be done before loosening the triple trees. They may be under some pressure from the springs inside so don't put your face in front of it.
If my unclear and unsure advice makes you think I'm incompetent,you're right. This job was within my ability.:-\\\Good Luck! RJ

 

[Steve]

For your "special tool" to hold the damper rod, splurge. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot, get a two-foot long piece of 1/2" all-thread and four nuts. Put two nuts at each end, jamb them together, leaving 1/2" to 1" sticking out. Now you can stick that down the fork tube into the damper rod. The inch or so that is sticking out will help you locate the rod and center your tool. Now you can use a wrench on the inner nut of the two that are showing and unscrew the damper. If I remember correctly, parts were about $5 when I did mine.

Here is what it looks like:

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[Guest]

Sweet thanks Steve. I thought I remembered seeing this in a thread before. I actually have 2 sets of fork seals to do so I should be pretty good at it by the time I'm done.

 

[Steve]

No problem.

If I were at home, I'd just say "bring 'em on over", but I'm still stuck in Flori-duh.

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[Billy Ricks]

I've done several sets of Suzuki forks, GS and GSXR. I never used anything to hold the damper rod. Just unscrew the bolts on the bottom of the forks without holding a thing internally. Same when I re-assemble. Never had any problem loosening or tightening the bolts.

 

[bonanzadave]

No. As Turtle mentions the damper rod holds the upper fork ( chrome) in place and it has to come out in order to get to the seal.

Call me stupid but I dont get it...... If the forks are out of the trees there does not appear to be anything stopping the dust cover (24) retainer spring (4) washer (5) and seal (6) from sliding up and off the upper fork tube. :|

 

[TeamDar]

The retainer spring (4) acts as a snap ring device to hold in the seal. The dust boot snaps in place like a bottle cap.

 

[Billy Ricks]

The problem is digging them out of their recess without scratching anything. A few people have said they used air pressure to pop them out of the recess. They had to use quite a bit of pressure to do it. It's not a big deal to disassemble them completely. Gives you a chance to clean out the innards good. Once you get the bolt out of the bottom of the fork leg just give the upper tube a good yank and the seal pops out. Just for clarity the clip over the washer that's over the seal has to come out. Don't want anyone forgetting that. The bushings should really be replaced along with the seals. Parts 8 and 10 on the schematic.

 

[gggGary]

As a rule I leave the tubes in the triples, I can't think of a reason to remove them, can you?

 

[Steve]

Well, as a matter of fact, yes, I can.

On the forks that I have done, there was a LOT of force necessary to get the seal out of place. That would have involved sliding the fork tube DOWN, trying to hammer the seal UP. For the times that it would have resisted, the bike would be doing a dance on the centerstand or jack. On the one time that the seal let go, the bottom of the fork tube would probably have gone bouncing off the concrete floor. I try to avoid both of those by simply removing the forks from the bike.

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[Guest]

my model dont seem to have the bushings that are mentioned above. I have an 80 1100LT. I double checked alpha sports.

 

[Billy Ricks]

Another good reason is to clean things out as well as possible. Once out of the triple I dump the old oil and fill with kerosene and pump the fork up and down for a minute or two and repeat the process until the solvent comes out clean. Then once I get the forks apart I check everything out for traces of filth.