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Billy Ricks
Guest
Some of the older models didn't have them. For those that do Suzuki recommends replacing them when doing seals.
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Guest
Guest
ok. as far as taking the tubes out I have to any way so that I can try and get the broken exhaust bolt out.
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Billy Ricks
Guest
Good luck with that bolt. I've only ever had one break on me. I ended up just drilling through the old bolt and tapping the hole. Just use some tape on the bit to mark how deep you need to go. You have to drill as straight as you can but if you can't get the bolt out it's about all you can do short of pulling the head.
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Guest
Guest
Yeah I'm really dreading it.
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Turtleface
Guest
Well, as a matter of fact, yes, I can.
On the forks that I have done, there was a LOT of force necessary to get the seal out of place. That would have involved sliding the fork tube DOWN, trying to hammer the seal UP. For the times that it would have resisted, the bike would be doing a dance on the centerstand or jack. On the one time that the seal let go, the bottom of the fork tube would probably have gone bouncing off the concrete floor. I try to avoid both of those by simply removing the forks from the bike.
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I use the "slide-hammer" method myself, with success. I can't imagine trying it with the fork in the triples. Being able to lay the fork down on a pile of old towels also makes it easier to break the damper rod bolt loose, at least for me.
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Guest
Guest
Get a cheap electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight. Keep the fork caps on and hit the allen bolts with the impact. This is a very painless way of undoing the forks.
Relax, it's easy.
Relax, it's easy.
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Theo
Guest
This is basically how I did it. Except I used a impact driver but it worked just the same. Taking the forks apart is actually surprisingly easy.
Salty_Monk Dan reports success popping out seals using air pressure on fully assembled forks. Never tried but worth mentioning.
Regarding holding that damper rod, Steve's threaded rod trick is slick but you can do the same thing with a spark plug socket, the type with the hex on the outside, with a long socket extension (or two shorter extensions). Trick is to put the extension in backwards. Works great and no cost for those with a stocked tool cabinet.
Regarding holding that damper rod, Steve's threaded rod trick is slick but you can do the same thing with a spark plug socket, the type with the hex on the outside, with a long socket extension (or two shorter extensions). Trick is to put the extension in backwards. Works great and no cost for those with a stocked tool cabinet.
