I want to make my own fork tool..the one with the nut that holds the insides so you can loosen the bottom bolt. I have a long rod to use as a shaft. I ned to know what size bolt head i need to fit into the end...
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special fork tool
- Thread starter chuck hahn
- Start date
Is this for your 1000? then it should be 19MM.
Gotta be on Cliffs info site....
G
Guest
Guest
I think most of the forks are 19mm (or 3/4"), but I believe some smaller bikes (550?) use a smaller size.
B
Billy Ricks
Guest
There must be something special about everyone's forks. I've done a couple of sets of GS forks and a set of GSX-R forks. I never held the dampers with anything. Just pulled the bolt out of the bottom of the forks easy as pie. Reassembled without holding them too.
tas850g
Forum Mentor
Use 1/2" ready rod about 2' long and double nut each end, one to hold with a wrench and one to slip inside the fork. 1/2" nuts take a 3/4" wrench which is also 19mm. I use a 2' rod so I can also put it in a vise if needed.
This is what I use on the GSXR. Works well. Haven't had to work on the 79 forks yet.
G
Guest
Guest
Yeah, with an air wrench.:lol:
B
Billy Ricks
Guest
3/8" ratchet actually. You just unscrew the socket cap bolt out of the bottom of the forks.
The hex on the bottom of the typical spark plug socket is 19mm. If you have some long 3/8" ratchet extensions it's an easy matter to stick the extension into the socket backwards and then stick the socket down into the forks to hold the damping rod. You need about 18" of extensions or so, although I haven't measured.
Salty_Monk (Dan) taught me this trick and it works great.
Salty_Monk (Dan) taught me this trick and it works great.
S
sschering
Guest
I just dug through the spark plug sockets with the 3/4" hex top and found one I could put on a socket extension backwards..
3/4"=19mm within a thousandth or so.
Works nice and easy
Edit:
Umm yeah what Nessim said..
or get this for $6
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-15666-Hex-Bit-Socket/dp/B004W7FOB2
Why do I find it funny that the 19mm costs a buck less?
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-19mm-He...ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1304461937&sr=1-6
3/4"=19mm within a thousandth or so.
Works nice and easy
Edit:
Umm yeah what Nessim said..
or get this for $6
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-15666-Hex-Bit-Socket/dp/B004W7FOB2
Why do I find it funny that the 19mm costs a buck less?
http://www.amazon.com/Titan-19mm-He...ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1304461937&sr=1-6
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I prefer just using a bolt with a 19mm head X 40mm or so plus two nuts for the tools.
I use several extensions and a long Allen to break the bolt loose.
I've found that previous owners get a little heavy on the Locktite and the bolts doesn't want to break free without some BFM. That's why a prefer a relatively short bolt and extensions over a long rod.
I just did two sets of forks last Saturday and having my son hold the 18" breaker bar and giving it a good pull worked every time
BassCliff ran into the same issue not too long ago.
I use several extensions and a long Allen to break the bolt loose.
I've found that previous owners get a little heavy on the Locktite and the bolts doesn't want to break free without some BFM. That's why a prefer a relatively short bolt and extensions over a long rod.
I just did two sets of forks last Saturday and having my son hold the 18" breaker bar and giving it a good pull worked every time
BassCliff ran into the same issue not too long ago.
H
Hammered
Guest
Yeah I did my 750 and the 650 without any issue same way.
Yes in perfect world this usually works provided there's no sludge on the threads or even worst thread sealer or loctite.
S
SVSooke
Guest
Done a couple of 3gen 750 forks with no holder in the legs.Just lucky?There was loctite IIRC.
L
Lunchbox88
Guest
I used a this sketch thing that I pieced together with 1/2" extensions, and random bolt that I threaded a 19mm lug nut onto. Did the job nicely.
T
TheCafeKid
Guest
IF the forks have never been apart (which amazingly I've found to be pretty common) the factory assembly thread lock is mighty mighty strong (whatever yellow is in the threadlock world) I broke an air ratchet once trying to remove one of them, after stripping the hex and using a torx drive (work great on stripped Allen heads btw) Darn thing would just not break loose. Had to heat it with a torch. Finally got it.
Then some I've done (like FoxyBlankworthy's) they had to have been apart before because I didn't even need the special tool and they came right out.
Anymore I use medium duty thread locker. This new stuff I've been using MXLoc (from harbor freight) is burgundy in colour for their medium duty and blue is semi heavy duty with green and red being the heavy end. I use the burgundy.
Then some I've done (like FoxyBlankworthy's) they had to have been apart before because I didn't even need the special tool and they came right out.
Anymore I use medium duty thread locker. This new stuff I've been using MXLoc (from harbor freight) is burgundy in colour for their medium duty and blue is semi heavy duty with green and red being the heavy end. I use the burgundy.
B
Billy Ricks
Guest
Nope, torque 'em down all you want. Just don't strip anything.
first timer
Forum Sage
before you go making or buying stuff this trick has work 9 out of 10 times for me. remove the fork from the bike. keep the fork spring in compression (don't remove the cap yet, the pressure helps hold the damper rod in place.) take a propane torch heat the allen head up a bit. then zap it a few times with a impact wrench should come right out.
don't forget to bleed any air pressure first from the fork i once made that messy mistake.
don't forget to bleed any air pressure first from the fork i once made that messy mistake.
