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Split collets

  • Thread starter Thread starter Audioslave784
  • Start date Start date
A

Audioslave784

Guest
I'm assembling my 8v 850 head, and I was just wondering if it was normal for the split collets to be asymmetrical like this?

I can't see any reason why not, but this is my first time assembling a head and I really, really wouldn't want to get this wrong and drop a valve.

IMG_0935.jpg
 
That's the video I referenced to get the head apart in the first place. The simple PVC/Washer tool worked very well, and getting the collets off was much easier than I expected.

I am having a hard time getting the collets back on, but I think it's just a matter of practice. I've got a magnet similar to the one Steve uses in his video, but I can't for the life of me figure out how he got that to work.
 
Well, look closely, I am that "he". :D

I used the magnet to hold the collet close, then used another tool, a scribe (but could be any small tool, like a screwdriver) to push the collet into place on the valve stem. It took several tries before I got comfortable enough to film it, but as you can see, even I have problems with it at times.

Did you put some grease in the groove on the valve stem? It will act like glue and hold the collet when you get it in place.

The whole purpose of that video was to show that you did not need a $150 valve spring compressor to get the job done. :o

.
 
No matter how many times I've done this it's always a fiddle. The first set of collets will drop straight in and I think I'm the nuts and then the 2nd and 3rd pair will need the patience of a saint.

Another tool I've found useful is a thin pair of tweezers - best is the tiny ones from a Swiss army knife. The grease tip, as Steve says, is a biggy (and good eyesight....:D).
 
Oops :oops: I guess that's what you meant by "BassCliff has a video on his site that I made"? :rolleyes: Anyway thank you for making that video, it really helped a lot, not just with making the tool but it pretty much gave me the confidence to take the head apart in the first place.

I got 3 collets this afternoon, and I'm going to try and get the other 5 done tonight. I hadn't been using any grease, but that should definitely make things easier!
 
It is somewhere between "amazing" and "amusing" what we miss when we read. :D

Glad the video helped. :o

.
 
those keepers are suposed to have the same size gap on both ends (it keeps the pressure the same on both sides of the valve ) when the engine spins at 8grand or so those valves are basicly vibrating (if you have ever seen a valve at that rpm they spin all different directions springs one way valve the other keepers and the retainer yet another) sometimes the spring is even bouncing off of the spring seat....... i know its hard but you should realy try your best just to be safe
 
Please tell me, if you can, just what keeps those keepers from vibrating around while the engine is running. :-k

The keepers are smaller than half the circumference by design to ensure that they can fully seat into the groove on the top of the valve.
About 355 of the 360 degree circle is being supported by the keeper.
Somehow, I don't think that the lack of 5 degrees of support is going to be noticed. :o

.
 
it may or may not make a differance but it is good engine building and cylinder head rebuilding practice ...... it never hurts to pay att to detail

also its not absolutly essential (meaning that the engine will deff fail if not done) that is why i said to try as hard as you can .....

:)
then agean maby i just get anail retentive when it comes to engine building (im used to more high performance auto engines )
 
On a related note, is it important to use new valve keepers when rebuilding a head, or is it safe and acceptable to reuse the old ones?

Or is it a case of "well, the cost for new ones is reasonabe, it doesn't make sense not to put new ones in"?...
 
technically you need new keepers..... the stress that are on theese parts can be impressive . on the other hand i do know people who have reused them ( i would deff inspect them verry verry closly and if i saw any wear i would replace them ) i would consider in close detail the end use of the engine .... sence this is a bike engine with rpm capabilitys of 9g then i would use new (like you said they are cheap compaird to what they could caust if they fail.... and who can honistly say they dont beat on our beast every now and then)....

lol:)
 
Well, I can honestly say that MY bike has never been up to 9,000 rpm. :D

In fact, it hasn't been over 6,000 rpm. :-\\\



























There is a very good reason for that:

IMG_0285.jpg


:D

.
 
lol.......... i fell verry veryy sorry for you nothing like a screaming engine at 9000rpm (well one that is designed for it anyway) that sound combined with the pull of that bike lol...... its poetic
 
Well, I have heard even better than any of your bikes. :-k

Try a fuel-injected, double overhead cam, inline six-cylinder singing along at 8,000. :D

Now THAT is sweet music. :-\\\

Six cylinders at 8,000 sounds like a four cylinder engine at 12,000. :eek:



No, that's not my current ride. Quite the opposite.
My current ride is a carbureted, single overhead cam, flat six that I can barely hear, but that's the way I like it. :p

,
 
at this point in time i am forced to forgo the male ego and pride

i am jelous ..... the closest i have heard to that was a 500ci big block with a blower on the dyno..... we were tuning it for a customer......

big cubes at 8000 sound nice .... but that 6 musta been heaven
 
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