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Suzuki GS1000E Valve Clearance check

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  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Managed to remove the cam cover with the advice of our colleagues on the forum. Have checked the valve clearances and the results are:

No1 cylinder inlet .04mm
No2 .03mm
No3 .04mm
No4 .03mm

No1 Exhaust .03mm
No2 .03mm
No3 .03mm
No4 .04mm

What do you think guys?
 
Look up Steve. Email him for his handy dandy spreadsheet. Take the guesswork out of it. I don’t know what your tolerances are for in and ex so have no comment.
 
You could add .05 to all those by going a shim one size thinner or leave as they are - they're all in spec though at the bottom end. If you know what size shims are in there already you might get away with a shim shuffle and just need one or two new ones.
 
They are on bottom limit. Put smaller shims in... :) Loose is better than tight. Get as close to 0.08mm as possible. On those 0.04 ones I would put the next shim in & run them at 0.09 personally. You can then forget about them for quite some time in my experience....
 
Many thanks to all the replies. Looks like I might need a few smaller shims after a swap around. Any cheap places for shims
 
Last edited:
Just out of interest how much deflection should there be when you lift the camchain in the centre of the guide between the two sprockets
 
The KZ1000, which the GS engines are based off of, uses a shim clearance of between .05 - .15. In other words, it's perfectly safe to go above .08.
 
Quick question, I have read two ways of checking the clearances relating to the position of the cam lobes. One states to rotate the crank until No4 exhaust lobe is pointing upward at 90 degrees to the mating surface then take measurement and another states to rotate the crank so that No4 exhaust lobe is pointing forward level with the cylinder head and take measurement. I wondered which is right has I get a different reading doing it both ways.
 
Follow the procedure in the factory manual. That's the best method.
 
GSthou said:
Quick question, I have read two ways of checking the clearances relating to the position of the cam lobes. One states to rotate the crank until No4 exhaust lobe is pointing upward at 90 degrees to the mating surface then take measurement and another states to rotate the crank so that No4 exhaust lobe is pointing forward level with the cylinder head and take measurement. I wondered which is right has I get a different reading doing it both ways.
Click to expand...

For years, I did it with the obvious method, and had no problems.
Now I use the handbook method and have no problems.
 
There is a "shim club" here on the site run by a member called "GhostGS". He should be able to get you some shims. Otherwise Z1 Enterprises does an aftermarket shim that is far cheaper than the OEM ones. :)

https://www.z1enterprises.com/
 
Many thanks for the replies. Just going back to a previous question, whilst the cam cover is off I have checked the deflection when you lift the camchain in the centre of the guide between the two sprockets, should there be some slack
 
Some slack isn't a problem. If you are concerned you might want to check the cam chain tensioner.
 
The key measurement of the cam chain is the distance between the 20 pins - or is it 21? The workshop manual remembers better than me and it will give you the measurement limits as well. If it's in spec it's OK.
 
Looks like we ought to have a shim club in the UK. I don't want to derail this thread, so I'll start another when I get a minute.
 
hampshirehog said:
The key measurement of the cam chain is the distance between the 20 pins - or is it 21? The workshop manual remembers better than me and it will give you the measurement limits as well. If it's in spec it's OK.
Click to expand...

Many thanks, in the manual it mentions the 20 pins between the two camshaft markings and they are fine, but have not seen reference to the chain measurement limits and to be honest that maybe would not apply to the chain slack between the cam sprockets
 
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