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transmission grinding

  • Thread starter Thread starter mechiah
  • Start date Start date
M

mechiah

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hey guys. bumbling my way through my second GS, this one an 82 850 G (L?) I picked up living in Quebec.

was my only ride last fall and this summer, and served me well on my recent move back to Louisiana. two weeks later, though: grinding.

first noticed tues morning, thirty seconds from work: a grinding noise/sensation below to my left, most prevalent when not revving, when I was decelerating on engine braking. I feel like it was even slowing me down.

being outside work, I had no time to diag, and was hoping to credit the situation to my vehicle hypochondria

after work, five mile ride home in moderate traffic, it proved to be the real deal. was almost imperceptible at first, but I was revving high till i got closer to my downtown apartment.

pulled rear brakes off optimistically hoping it was just a caliper seized (happened to me before). no dice.

drained gearbox (thanks for the site, basscliff): very low, but no shavings to speak of, in the oil or the magnet. refilled, let it soak, ran in neutral some, still same problem.

drained and refilled again. this time some minute shavings came out the overfill hole, nothing that seemed extraordinary for a 30 year old bike.

checked differential oil on the shaft, was crystal clear, maybe even a little overfull.

the boot over the... ujoint? what's it called? had a tear, but inside looked clean.

ran it through gears on the center stand with no rear wheel, seemed... fine. no noises anywhere in the range.
same with the swingarm and driveshaft removed. nothing to get worried about audible, and hand on the gearbox felt no grinding.

BUT there was definite recent scoring on the front end of the swingarm, where the turning driveshaft hit, metal on metal, the swingarm. I have pics to illustrate, will post them when I can het to a desktop PC (recently in town, no internet in our place yet).

so that is superfresh, and I'd want to blame the problems on that. but... my pal thinks we can't know we didn't cause that ourselves when running it on the stand the first time... the scoring happened on the bottom side of the shaft opening, presumably because the shaft was angling too downwards. I can't contribute, I was manning controls and feeling the gearbox while he was eyeing the bearings in the differential. neither of us noticed any noises or jerking I thought we would have if we were witnessing an unrestrained swingarm getting eaten into by its driveshaft, so (maybe optimistically) I am wanting to blame my highway noises/grinding/drag on a collision of the shaft and swingarm.

but even that doesn't make total sense to me. in regular operation, how would they have touched? in the teardown, I hadn't seen anything indicating the swingarm was angled too downwards.

toss me ideas. I suspect if no-one has clues, tomorrow's steps will be taking the engine out and pulling the gearbox off. which I dread.

my pal suggest bringing my rear wheel and differential to a shop to have them inspected. i'm skeptical, I really felt the noise and grinding vibes were coming from my side, not behind me. also local dealership mechanics seem to treat their customers with (at best) mild derision.
 
The problem is likely the secondary drive -- the set of bevel gears at the left rear of the engine.

There are two likely failures -- the bearing that holds the output shaft/flange is one, and sometimes the flange or the retaining nut breaks off the output shaft.

Take a look at the u-joint and wiggle the shaft around -- if it can move around, which I suspect is your problem, the bearing in the output is stuffed.

The simplest solution is to buy a used output gear and bearing (they pull out as a unit) from another 82-83 GS850 (79-81 are very slightly different). This can be removed and replaced with the engine in place, but it's a tight fit. You may have to loosen the engine mounting bolts and do a bit of prying. Removing the swingarm is fairly easy on a shaftie, but make sure you get it centered correctly when you put everything back together.


That bearing is #7 on this diagram.
2145_18.gif
 
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Do NOT take your friends advice and let anyone other than you service your bike. You're the right person for the job, you charge the fairest rates, and you will do it properly with the help of a manual, and the wealth of information on this forum. A dealer will only screw you over in price and quality of work.
 
thanks for the tips and motivation guys

regarding wiggle in the drive: I woke up needing to pee, checked this thread, couldn't wait till morning.

already have the shaft and ujoint removed, so I grabbed hold of the output (#10?) and shook.

not a lot of play in it. I'd say millimetres, if anything.

but it is some. and looking at the gearbox I'd guess removing the output and bevel gear is just 8 bolts and some prying, like you said. will take them out in the am and get my eyes on them
 
Not too much prying, the aluminum housing of the can break. Loosen some of the engine case bolts in that area to lessen the pressure and they come out alot easier
 
i recently had secondary drive failure. it started last riding season as an almost imperceptible hum or whine which changed with drive rpm's and load. of course i put off dealing with it until one day when it became a very loud knocking sound. (the gs did get me home!).

the nut #12 and end of shaft #1 had broken off. bearings in both units were shot. i'm tempted to think the bearing in the first unit went bad causing the gears to mesh incorrectly (they have to be carefully adjusted when installing) which caused the output unit to fail.

definitely loosen the case bolts that squeeze the drive units. they should go in and out fairly easily, eventually, because there is a lot of shim adjusting when it's time to put it back together. i think there are 7 case bolts that affect.

i took some pictures of the repair job. if you think any of them might help i can post a couple.
 
started getting the gears out. working on the rear/output gear first. got it loose (loosened nearby bolts, thanks for the tip), but it is running into the frame before I can slide it all the way out. my eyes can't see how to get it out without moving the entire engine an inch to the right (or remove). pointers?
 
Take a good inspection of the sprockets and chain also. Worn gears and stretched chains dont mesh well after a while and bind and make grinding noises also. Hope your not doing all this work for just some worn chain or gears.
 
remove all motor mounts except the front long bolt. the motor can pivot on that. then you can pry the motor up so the rear unit will come out.
 
Take a good inspection of the sprockets and chain also. Worn gears and stretched chains dont mesh well after a while and bind and make grinding noises also. Hope your not doing all this work for just some worn chain or gears.

His bike is a shafty. ;)
 
Ohhh.... didnt really look for year or model in his sig....mine are all chain and thats one of the things chainers do when they are worn out.
 
Take a good inspection of the sprockets and chain also. Worn gears and stretched chains dont mesh well after a while and bind and make grinding noises also. Hope your not doing all this work for just some worn chain or gears.

I know I'm risking sounding pretty dumb here, but I'm confused enough to warrant it:

on a shaft drive?

pressing on, I got the side gear out... and it looks pristine. how freely should these bearings spin? this one doesn't seem to have rough spots, but doesn't fly loose as a bicycle wheel, either

removed most if the recommended engine mounts, except the most crucial: the one below the gearbox. I need some Allen wrenches to get off the foot peg that is stopping me from getting that long bolt out. with it loosened, only getting a little lift out of the engine.

will update later after a trip to harbor freight.
 
the bearings: they should turn smoothly. you may not be able to feel any play but if they have any roughness while turning they're probably shot. they probably won't spin freely though. mine felt like there was sand in them.
 
The front one should have 2.5-4.5 INCH lbs of rotational preload, the output one should have 3.5-6 INCH lbs of rotational preload. This is how much torque it should take to spin the assembly. It should not spin "freely". It should turn smoothly. If it spins "freely" it needs shim adjustment inside it. Loss of this preload inhibits the shaft from running true.

DUDE, download a factory manual from cliff's site, go to the shaft drive section and study it a bit.

Good Luck
 
ran out of daylight yesterday, can't touch it again till this weekend.

bicycling to work erry day till then, legs are not prepared

edit: i want to mention the repair if anyone finds this in search, but i also don't want to bump an old thread, so, here it is:

the issue turned out to be a broken shaft in the final drive. three more bolts off and there it was. replaced the whole final drive for $35 from ebay.

THE THING I DIDN'T MENTION IN OP, was that about two weeks before the grinding noise started, i low-sided turning on a slick road. dropped it right on the final drive, didn't think anything of it at the time because i stood it up and it ran for two more weeks. whoops. also, this was turning onto florida blvd in downtown baton rouge, lucky i go to work at the crack of dawn or i'd been run't over't.
 
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