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Twinpot Brake upgrade on 78 Skunk

Wow 12000 views... :)

Just bumping this up for the weekend. Come get the last couple of sets! :D
 
Have you experimented with SV650 front calipers using these brackets?

Reason I ask is that the guys over on the kawasaki concours forum bolt them directly to their bikes with no mods.

Would that mean that they work with you brackets?
 
I believe the SV ones are the same as the DL (vstrom) ones aren't they? Twinpot sliding pin design with 2 pistons same size.

If so then they don't work.... What year Concourse? The early ones I would think as they came with a single pot caliper like our bikes. The 2000-2005 ones use the Caliper these brackets were designed for which is also twinpot sliding pin the same so there would be no benefit.

:)
 
Hi Mr Monk et al

Been looking through this post, but being a bit of a novice I didn't really manage to work out what upgrade options exist for me.

Can someone help explain please, or point me towards the info I need?

I have a 1986 GS850G (same as 1983). I might need to replace the front callipers as the piston cavity is corroded. Replacement callipers are of course hard to find, so I was wondering whether I can broaden my options by considering the callipers from other models.

I came across this thread, but as I say I didn't really understand.

Can someone assist? Mr Monk, do you have something suitable for me?

Many thanks if you can help.
Assaf
 
Pm to you. If its the same as the US g bikes you can do this same mod. :)
 
Thanks Mr Monk

If I could just ask a few questions please. I do apologise if the answers are within this thread, but it's a damn long thread and I didn't manage to keep track past a couple of pages.

You wrote in your PM to me "If its the same as the G bikes here you can fit the twinpot calipers from Kawasaki Ninja or concourse along with Honda CBR disks/rotors using the bracket and spacer sets that I sell."

Where can I find details and prices of the kits? *Are they in this 11 page thread somewhere?

Also, am i right in understanding that this upgrade does not require changes to the master cylinder, reservoir etc. *In other words, if i order the parts you mention and IF all other items on my bike are original and in good shape then that's all i'll need to perform the upgrade. *Is that right?

What part numbers or years of calliper and rotor do I need to find?

And lastly, does this setup provide improved breaking ability, or is it just an alternative given that original parts are hard to find?

Many thanks
Assaf
 
stoked to do this mod this winter. not sure i can wait that long. hey saltymonk, i know most of the info is out there in the forum, but have ya thought about putting a write-up on cliff's site? really appreciate your pioneering efforts on this!

greg
 
assaf, in resopnse to some of your questions, i hear it gives true 2 finger braking to our bikes. so, performance upgrade to say the least. i think all my stuff to do the switch came to about $350 or so, that includes the kit (that i got from another member who wasnt using them), some VERY NICE ebay calipers (2004) some pretty nice cbr rotors, new seals for the calipers, and some shiny new ss brake lines. so, not exactly "cheap", but i gotta spend my money somewheres.....
 
It really improves the braking. 2 finger braking really is possible & also give a lot more feel.

For you to Israel I'd have to work out postage but bank on $75 plus shipping for the bracket set.

You will be looking for late 80's Kawasaki Ninja Tokico calipers (or the same ones were on the 2000-2005 Kawasaki Concourse).
Honda CBR 600 F3 model rotors.

Other than a way to drill the new holes in the ROtors using the template (the spacer also acts as a drilling jig) & a hacksaw to cut 5mm off the speedo drive dust cover (required in 70% of cases) that's all you need. Stock Master Cyl works fine.

Dan :)
 
Great. Thanks for your answers folks.
I guess the remaining question is just, what's the process?
As Greg asks, have you got that documented anywhere online?
Or if it's within this thread, can you point us to the right page?
Thanks
 
IMG_0010.jpg


Procedure:

1. use 2 x 6mm or 1/4" bolts to bolt spacer to back of CBR Rotor
2. Drill Holes through spider on Suzuki pattern at 8mm (straight through, no pilot. On a pillar drill, press is best as they need to be straight). Remove 6mm bolts.
3. Cut 5mm from Speedo Drive dust cover (if necessary). This leaves about 5mm of dust cover remaining (not necessary on about 20% of the ones out there. It will JAM THE WHEEL if you do not do this cut on one that needs it). I do this with a hacksaw with dust cover clamped in a vice by it's lip.

98c87e6e.jpg


IMGP5380.jpg


4. Fit rotors & dust cover using stock bolts & tabs with spacer behind them.
5. Fit caliper to fork using stock bolts (no washers) with blue loctite. Use a further 40-45mm 8mm bolt with nut on the lower fork bolt location (user supplied, get at least an 8.8 bolt, fine thread is better if you can get it, use loctite). Round spacer goes between bracket & caliper. Bracket goes on the OUTSIDE of fork leg.

IMGP5381.jpg


6. Fit wheel as normal.
7. CHECK CLEARANCES BEFORE RIDING.

obviously you'll need to fit lines, bleed brakes & do all the normal checks etc.

:)
 
Last edited:
Do the rotor spacers need to be installed when using stock GS rotors instead of CBR rotors?
 
If you use a GS550 Rotor on each side then no, you don't need the spacer.

Some caveats:

The GS550 rotors don't give exactly the right offset but they work fine.
The GS550 rotors are very heavy (added unsprung weight, not good for handling).
The GS550 rotor material does not really suit the stock Tokico pad material, it tears them up pretty quick.

With that said, although they are getting rarer the GS550 rotors are still the cheapest route to doing this upgrade as the rotors are usually so cheap.
It has been known for people to score CBR rotors for $50 though (scored a set myself a few weeks ago for that price) which makes them similar to the $40+ you'll spend on GS550 rotors. Just got to search & be patient.

I have not had much chance to try it (always sunny here) but I'm sure the CBR rotors would give a noticeable improvement in the wet.

:)
 
It has been known for people to score CBR rotors for $50 though (scored a set myself a few weeks ago for that price) which makes them similar to the $40+ you'll spend on GS550 rotors. Just got to search & be patient.

I have not had much chance to try it (always sunny here) but I'm sure the CBR rotors would give a noticeable improvement in the wet.

I got a pair of rotors for $50 on Ebay, shipped. You just have to be a little creative and very thorough in checking the rotor interchangeability. A lot of hondas used those rotors, and a lot of Kawis used the calipers.

Yes, the brakes are a massive improvement in the wet.


On a side note, when I got my rotors, I thought that one of them was warped. Turns out that these semifloating rotors can get knocked out of alignment, and the fix is to make sure all of the rivets are free and can spin (use WD40 to free them and lube them and then make sure you get it all out with brake cleaner. Be very methodical about this. You don't want WD40 in your brakes). Then you take a block of wood and a mallet and whack the crap out of the rotors, and they self-align. I went from almost 1/8" of runout to a perfectly straight rotor with this.
 
thanks for that tip! when i put stuff on it is always spotless, but good to know what to look for! not sure i can wait till winter to do this mod.

I got a pair of rotors for $50 on Ebay, shipped. You just have to be a little creative and very thorough in checking the rotor interchangeability. A lot of hondas used those rotors, and a lot of Kawis used the calipers.

Yes, the brakes are a massive improvement in the wet.


On a side note, when I got my rotors, I thought that one of them was warped. Turns out that these semifloating rotors can get knocked out of alignment, and the fix is to make sure all of the rivets are free and can spin (use WD40 to free them and lube them and then make sure you get it all out with brake cleaner. Be very methodical about this. You don't want WD40 in your brakes). Then you take a block of wood and a mallet and whack the crap out of the rotors, and they self-align. I went from almost 1/8" of runout to a perfectly straight rotor with this.
 
I got a pair of rotors for $50 on Ebay, shipped. You just have to be a little creative and very thorough in checking the rotor interchangeability. A lot of hondas used those rotors, and a lot of Kawis used the calipers.

Yes, the brakes are a massive improvement in the wet.


On a side note, when I got my rotors, I thought that one of them was warped. Turns out that these semifloating rotors can get knocked out of alignment, and the fix is to make sure all of the rivets are free and can spin (use WD40 to free them and lube them and then make sure you get it all out with brake cleaner. Be very methodical about this. You don't want WD40 in your brakes). Then you take a block of wood and a mallet and whack the crap out of the rotors, and they self-align. I went from almost 1/8" of runout to a perfectly straight rotor with this.

Good tip on the rotors - thanks for posting that. :)

Sorry that you get wet :-\\\ :p :D
 
Just bouncing this back to the top... It's about Wrenching season for a big chunk of the US again :)
 
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