I am now looking for commitment from props on order to get another run under way. See my new post.
Lead time is about 2 wks from "go" date.
Lead time is about 2 wks from "go" date.
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Twinpot Brake upgrade on 78 Skunk
- Thread starter salty_monk
- Start date
S
Smokinapankake
Guest
Dan,
Sign me up for a set. Regardless of whether or not I need the rotor spacers.
How do you want me to pay?
Sign me up for a set. Regardless of whether or not I need the rotor spacers.
How do you want me to pay?
I need a few more people to give me a "yes" on this... I don't want to have a bunch of money sunk in this for months - it's primarily a favour after all - I already have good brakes 
Looks like there is very limited current interest in this... 
Apologies to those that are waiting.
Apologies to those that are waiting.
Ok... we've scraped together enough people to allow me to put in an order for steel uncoated sets.
If you want them painted I'll paint them for you at a cost (black or silver).
See the other thread. PM me for payment details. We are about 2 weeks till I get them.
If you want them painted I'll paint them for you at a cost (black or silver).
See the other thread. PM me for payment details. We are about 2 weeks till I get them.
S
Smokinapankake
Guest
PM sent.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Cleared some space in my PM box. I will try to ping a few people that I haven't seen on here in a while that I know are waiting....
Dan
Dan
This question comes up a fair bit... if you fit the CBR rotors with a spacer behind you must chop 3-5mm off the top of the speedo drive dust cover.
This is the cover:
Dan
Don't forget to cut this shield down & check clearances carefully.
Hi-Tec!!
Bumping this for visibility for Cowboyup
T
Tom550
Guest
Is there a way I could get one instead of a set? Just wanting to run a single dual piston for now. If so, I'll take one! thanks.
Won't work on the 550 unless you change the fork leg to one from a dual disc model such as a 650..
T
Tom550
Guest
Yeah, dang... well there goes that idea. I guess I'm going to run a 550e twin disc for now and maybe I'll get to thinking of cool brackets for dual pistons
O
oohsam
Guest
Hey Guys, @SaltyMonk - I sent you a PM about this...I'll also post it here as I'm unsure if this is correct or not. Others may be able to advise.
I finally got the point of my rebuild in which I can install the brakes.
Quick question -
I installed new brake pads and got the discs installed too. I wasn't sure wether I should put the spacers on or not, but I did.
I've attached a picture from the top of the disc to show you the clearance of the brake pads. Looks to me like one side of the brake pads (the inside pad) should be right up on the disc, as only the outer pad is pressed when the piston moves...So should the inside pad be touching/resting on the disc?
Does this look right to you. It looks like the gap, is the exact gap of the spacer...and thus removing the spacer would rear pad will then be pretty much touching the disc..which kinda seems like the right way?...
Sorry for the rambling...your help is appreciated.
If any one of you can check that your bikes that would be great. Dont want to get this wrong.
Was also wondering, if only one side of brake moves in to clasp the disc, what happens when the rear pad wears down? hmm...
I finally got the point of my rebuild in which I can install the brakes.
Quick question -
I installed new brake pads and got the discs installed too. I wasn't sure wether I should put the spacers on or not, but I did.
I've attached a picture from the top of the disc to show you the clearance of the brake pads. Looks to me like one side of the brake pads (the inside pad) should be right up on the disc, as only the outer pad is pressed when the piston moves...So should the inside pad be touching/resting on the disc?
Does this look right to you. It looks like the gap, is the exact gap of the spacer...and thus removing the spacer would rear pad will then be pretty much touching the disc..which kinda seems like the right way?...
Sorry for the rambling...your help is appreciated.
If any one of you can check that your bikes that would be great. Dont want to get this wrong.
Was also wondering, if only one side of brake moves in to clasp the disc, what happens when the rear pad wears down? hmm...
O
oohsam
Guest
Silly me.
I just did some research and found the answer. One side of the caliper pushes the pistons out, which force one side of the onto the disc. The force continues, and since the piston side is hard on the disc, this makes the entire caliper body slide along the rails which pulls the other side onto the disc...Sorry guys.
Here is the article I found which explains this.
The basic answer is that once the piston is extended to its max, the entire caliper body then slides equalizing the value on both sides.
http://enderw88.wordpress.com/automotive-theory/brake-system-theory/
"Why pressure from only one side?
This can be a little confusing and some very smart people have gotten caught. But it really isn’t that hard to understand if we shift our thinking a bit. First, ignore whether or not the caliper is fixed or floating; it doesn’t matter, and in a minute you’ll see why.
Imagine that you are holding a book between your two open hands. Now squeeze on the book. If your left hand is pushing with 25 pounds of force, then your right hand has to push back with that much force or the book will move across your chest. Each of your hands is a brake pad, and the book is the rotor. The force between the pad and the rotor is only 25 pounds, not 50. And it is the force between pad and rotor that determines the frictional force generated on the brake rotor.
In this respect there is no difference between floating and fixed calipers. The other side just acts to keep the rotor centered in the caliper, one moves the whole caliper, the other moves the other pistons.
But wait! There are still two pads, one on each side. If we replace one pad with a ball bearing surface the force on the rotor from the brake caliper would be reduce about half. So we have to count both pads, but using the force generated by one side of the pistons."
I just did some research and found the answer. One side of the caliper pushes the pistons out, which force one side of the onto the disc. The force continues, and since the piston side is hard on the disc, this makes the entire caliper body slide along the rails which pulls the other side onto the disc...Sorry guys.
Here is the article I found which explains this.
The basic answer is that once the piston is extended to its max, the entire caliper body then slides equalizing the value on both sides.
http://enderw88.wordpress.com/automotive-theory/brake-system-theory/
"Why pressure from only one side?
This can be a little confusing and some very smart people have gotten caught. But it really isn’t that hard to understand if we shift our thinking a bit. First, ignore whether or not the caliper is fixed or floating; it doesn’t matter, and in a minute you’ll see why.
Imagine that you are holding a book between your two open hands. Now squeeze on the book. If your left hand is pushing with 25 pounds of force, then your right hand has to push back with that much force or the book will move across your chest. Each of your hands is a brake pad, and the book is the rotor. The force between the pad and the rotor is only 25 pounds, not 50. And it is the force between pad and rotor that determines the frictional force generated on the brake rotor.
In this respect there is no difference between floating and fixed calipers. The other side just acts to keep the rotor centered in the caliper, one moves the whole caliper, the other moves the other pistons.
But wait! There are still two pads, one on each side. If we replace one pad with a ball bearing surface the force on the rotor from the brake caliper would be reduce about half. So we have to count both pads, but using the force generated by one side of the pistons."
Pm'd you back but looks like you sorted it yourself.
Check clearances to the back of all those bolts between bolt tip and rotor carefully.
I consider 3mm absolute minimum Clearance and I have run one bike at that for a few thousand miles. prefer to have more.
Check clearances to the back of all those bolts between bolt tip and rotor carefully.
I consider 3mm absolute minimum Clearance and I have run one bike at that for a few thousand miles. prefer to have more.
Still got a couple of sets of brackets left in plain steel... Let me know if you need a set.
Debating getting some more sets made up.. Latter stages have been a bit slow (either due to saturation or economy or both I suspect).
Let me know if you are on the fence & likely to want a set in the coming 6 months. This could be the last time I run this.
Debating getting some more sets made up.. Latter stages have been a bit slow (either due to saturation or economy or both I suspect).
Let me know if you are on the fence & likely to want a set in the coming 6 months. This could be the last time I run this.
N
ndaugbjerg
Guest
Salty Monk, Don't know if my memory is correct but I recall something about a brake upgrade for the gs450. 550 rotor and a brand H pot or something. I guess the two primary issues are rotor bolt pattern and caliper bracket. I have the facility to fab the bracket but it wouldn't take much to talk me into taking an easy way out. Just picked up an '82 450E. I have all the new parts to get it on the road but want to do ssome upgrades asap. Riding weather is just a few weeks away here on the Texas coast.
Thanks,
Niels
Thanks,
Niels
Niels,
It's untested on the 450. I do have an odd single bracket if you want to be the guinea pig though....
If it works then it would work with the GS550 rotor (296mm) or one of the Honda rotors from the CBR F3 (with an adapter which I also have).
It's untested on the 450. I do have an odd single bracket if you want to be the guinea pig though....
If it works then it would work with the GS550 rotor (296mm) or one of the Honda rotors from the CBR F3 (with an adapter which I also have).
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