The 29's are considered the best carb for the 1000 with basic mods. Strictly an aftermarket carb. Vance and Hines used to sell them "pre-jetted" for the 1000. Their jetting was at least very close if not spot on. I tried to get the old jetting records from VH headquarters out here but got nowhere. I'm sure the info exists but how to get it I don't know.
One major issue is the throttle valve cut-away size. There are 2 sizes used for the Suzuki. Some say the 1.5 works best while others say the 2.0 is better. The wrong choice will make the bike run poorly while transitioning from the pilot circuit to the jet needle.
Try going back to the basics. Once you install the new plug leads and are sure the voltage is good at the coils (primary) and plug caps (secondary), spark is a good/bluish at all cylinders, correct heat range plugs are being used and gapped correctly, advance timing set, valve clearances adjusted, filters PROPERLY oiled, carbs cleaned/new o-rings and floats set as you've done, new manifold o-rings and manifolds inspected...then focus on the carbs.
A good vacuum synch is important for accurately testing the jetting but a careful bench synch can get you by until you know the jetting is in the ballpark. If vacuum levels are too far apart then you don't know which cylinder plug read to trust. Each time you disturb the jet needles you must re-synch the throttle valves.
As basic tuning, the side air screws must be adjusted using the highest rpm method first before testing (done on a fully warmed up motor). If the bike is running poorly and has sooty plugs then this adjustment will be compromised but still attempt to set them for now. I don't own these carbs and can only SUGGEST you set the side air screws to 1 1/2 turns out if you have trouble finding the highest rpm. If equipped with pilot fuel screws to assist the pilot jet, then set them to approx' 1 turn out from lightly seated. If others here KNOW better starting points then please say so.
I can only assume the correct air jets are already installed.
If these carbs have 2 float bowl vent lines then I suggest removing the vent lines and leaving the ports open to allow maximum bowl venting and to avoid fuel starvation in windy conditions.
Try testing the main jet by warming up fully first then going to a safe place to do some high speed testing at FULL throttle. Take a run of 1/2 to 1 mile, then repeat the run and chop off by quickly closing the throttle/pulling in the clutch and turning off the key. Coast to a stop with clutch in and check the plugs. The reads should tell you what to do with the mains as no other jetting circuit is being used at full throttle. If taking the reads away from the house then take a rag along to help with the hot plugs. A piece of hose that fits snugly over the plug end will help you avoid burns when removing/installing. Be careful of cross-threading when installing with a hose.
Tell us what the plugs look like and the performance you noticed.
Once the mains are done we can test for the jet needle e-clip position by testing at 1/3 throttle to no more than 1/2 throttle.
Then the pilot circuit can be done.
Final synch using a vacuum tool will be necessary.
One major issue is the throttle valve cut-away size. There are 2 sizes used for the Suzuki. Some say the 1.5 works best while others say the 2.0 is better. The wrong choice will make the bike run poorly while transitioning from the pilot circuit to the jet needle.
Try going back to the basics. Once you install the new plug leads and are sure the voltage is good at the coils (primary) and plug caps (secondary), spark is a good/bluish at all cylinders, correct heat range plugs are being used and gapped correctly, advance timing set, valve clearances adjusted, filters PROPERLY oiled, carbs cleaned/new o-rings and floats set as you've done, new manifold o-rings and manifolds inspected...then focus on the carbs.
A good vacuum synch is important for accurately testing the jetting but a careful bench synch can get you by until you know the jetting is in the ballpark. If vacuum levels are too far apart then you don't know which cylinder plug read to trust. Each time you disturb the jet needles you must re-synch the throttle valves.
As basic tuning, the side air screws must be adjusted using the highest rpm method first before testing (done on a fully warmed up motor). If the bike is running poorly and has sooty plugs then this adjustment will be compromised but still attempt to set them for now. I don't own these carbs and can only SUGGEST you set the side air screws to 1 1/2 turns out if you have trouble finding the highest rpm. If equipped with pilot fuel screws to assist the pilot jet, then set them to approx' 1 turn out from lightly seated. If others here KNOW better starting points then please say so.
I can only assume the correct air jets are already installed.
If these carbs have 2 float bowl vent lines then I suggest removing the vent lines and leaving the ports open to allow maximum bowl venting and to avoid fuel starvation in windy conditions.
Try testing the main jet by warming up fully first then going to a safe place to do some high speed testing at FULL throttle. Take a run of 1/2 to 1 mile, then repeat the run and chop off by quickly closing the throttle/pulling in the clutch and turning off the key. Coast to a stop with clutch in and check the plugs. The reads should tell you what to do with the mains as no other jetting circuit is being used at full throttle. If taking the reads away from the house then take a rag along to help with the hot plugs. A piece of hose that fits snugly over the plug end will help you avoid burns when removing/installing. Be careful of cross-threading when installing with a hose.
Tell us what the plugs look like and the performance you noticed.
Once the mains are done we can test for the jet needle e-clip position by testing at 1/3 throttle to no more than 1/2 throttle.
Then the pilot circuit can be done.
Final synch using a vacuum tool will be necessary.
Notice the sexy NGK white lettering on the black spark plug boots.
