T
Tarbash 27
Guest
Ooooh pretty. Mine is still sitting here behind me on the floor. Are you using the stock clutch basket?
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Yosh build part deux
- Thread starter first timer
- Start date
first timer
Forum Sage
yes stock basket with heavy duty backing plate, springs, and welded rivits. Stan didn't think there would be a problem using the stock basket as long as I did the reinforcement.
Did you go staight cut or stock on your crank?
T
Tarbash 27
Guest
Stock helical gears, stock basket, clutch hub rebuild kit I did myself, just needs to be welded, I tacked it together myself. Maybe Ill send it to stan. Did he balance yours? Next week, I found a shop local that is going to back cut my trans. A few of the gears are slightly smeared on the dogs.
I'm coming in a bit late here (being gone for 10 weeks will do that)
It looks like you're on the right track. Mine's more stock than yours, 1085 kit being the major change. I regularly rev it to 10 grand with the welded crank, no problems there.
That should be a monster motor. I hope it will idle well with that head/cam.
I assume you're going to degree the cams?
As far as frame bracing, it looks as if the braces around the stock battery area and at the back top (over the carbs) are most important. Remember, it is a street bike (plus, you can easily add more bracing if you don't powder coat the frame)
You've done a beautiful job with redoing the bike so far. I dying to hear it run once you're done. Don't make me have to fly to Tucson, post that up.
You'll be giving Renobruce something to aim for with his Beast build.
It looks like you're on the right track. Mine's more stock than yours, 1085 kit being the major change. I regularly rev it to 10 grand with the welded crank, no problems there.
That should be a monster motor. I hope it will idle well with that head/cam.
I assume you're going to degree the cams?
As far as frame bracing, it looks as if the braces around the stock battery area and at the back top (over the carbs) are most important. Remember, it is a street bike (plus, you can easily add more bracing if you don't powder coat the frame)
You've done a beautiful job with redoing the bike so far. I dying to hear it run once you're done. Don't make me have to fly to Tucson, post that up.
You'll be giving Renobruce something to aim for with his Beast build.
G
Guest
Guest
Looking good!!
You'll have to get 'er done before next September, and bring it up for the Dynodrags! Beast vs. Yoshi!
first timer
Forum Sage
Thanks Bruce I would love to race you. But if I can hustle I might be able to bring the yosh to the South West Rally at Escondido, Still so much work to do....
You get your bike fired up yet? What carbs are you running?
You get your bike fired up yet? What carbs are you running?
G
Guest
Guest
I might have mine done by then, too.
Fired up? HA! I don't even have the motor back together. Been busy. But I should have it back together this week. But then lots to do after that...frame bracing, powder coating, suspension, etc, etc.
I have some VM29's that are going on it.
first timer
Forum Sage
Just an update, it's going slow, getting ready to get the cases media blasted and painted. Should be done in the next 3 weeks.
Picked up some APE valve seals so the issue is put to bed.
Now I am dealing with trans bearings, figured i might as well replace them with everything is apart. Trippivot recomends using some bearings from a bearing house because they are newer and have better alloy then the OEM stuff that could be sitting for years. The only catch is the bearing house stuff doesn't have the little hole drilled for the pin (to keep them from spinning) like the oem, But I don't think that will be a problem the bearing house stuff has the clip still and the sealer and clip should keep the bearings from spinning in the cases without the pin.
I'll post some pics once the case get started.
Picked up some APE valve seals so the issue is put to bed.
Now I am dealing with trans bearings, figured i might as well replace them with everything is apart. Trippivot recomends using some bearings from a bearing house because they are newer and have better alloy then the OEM stuff that could be sitting for years. The only catch is the bearing house stuff doesn't have the little hole drilled for the pin (to keep them from spinning) like the oem, But I don't think that will be a problem the bearing house stuff has the clip still and the sealer and clip should keep the bearings from spinning in the cases without the pin.
I'll post some pics once the case get started.
8
80gs1000e
Guest
Posting in epic thread now!!! 
first timer
Forum Sage
it's been slow going but here is my next step,
So let me run this by you guys, how do you feel about drilling the cooling fins like Pops and Craig Smith did? I know there is marginal performance gained but am really doing it for looks. Drilling holes in the fins will this jeopardize the motor in anyway (besides if I drilled through a oil gallery or intake port
) ?
I have a spare gs1000 block and head that I practiced on and worked out all my mistakes and hole locations on. I figured out what I need to do, I have the templates made and already started center punching marks for the drill on my good head (aka speedy steve head and 1085 bored out block). I just wanted to check with the collective before I drill an expensive head and block to only find out it was a very bad idea.
So let me run this by you guys, how do you feel about drilling the cooling fins like Pops and Craig Smith did? I know there is marginal performance gained but am really doing it for looks. Drilling holes in the fins will this jeopardize the motor in anyway (besides if I drilled through a oil gallery or intake port
) ?I have a spare gs1000 block and head that I practiced on and worked out all my mistakes and hole locations on. I figured out what I need to do, I have the templates made and already started center punching marks for the drill on my good head (aka speedy steve head and 1085 bored out block). I just wanted to check with the collective before I drill an expensive head and block to only find out it was a very bad idea.
first timer
Forum Sage
Here are a few pics as promised
first timer
Forum Sage
first timer
Forum Sage
i doubt i am going to hear it over my strairght cut gears, lumpy cams, and race exhaust.
I know it is Yoshi and nostalgic but it sure doesn't seem to make a whole lot of sense from an engineering perspective.
If to a first approximation convective heat flow is proportional to surface area avaliable, you have traded two time the area of the OD for 1 times the circumference times the fin thickness.
I wont do the calcs but I'm sure you loose.
Second, is there really any kind of an improvement in the air flow? At 60-100 mph I cant say you are going to see any incremental change is air flow. It is mostly due to the forward velocity.
So while it might be considered cool, somethings are best left in the past. This seems to be an overheating desperation move before using oil coolers.
Just my perception, if you have your heart set on drilling, have at it. I did the same on a rear rotor recently :-#
If to a first approximation convective heat flow is proportional to surface area avaliable, you have traded two time the area of the OD for 1 times the circumference times the fin thickness.
I wont do the calcs but I'm sure you loose.
Second, is there really any kind of an improvement in the air flow? At 60-100 mph I cant say you are going to see any incremental change is air flow. It is mostly due to the forward velocity.
So while it might be considered cool, somethings are best left in the past. This seems to be an overheating desperation move before using oil coolers.
Just my perception, if you have your heart set on drilling, have at it. I did the same on a rear rotor recently :-#
Just so you know, back in the day of the 1000cc Super bikes, all that drilling was done for one purpose, & one purpose ONLY - to reduce WEIGHT!!! You are building a street bike, not restoring a Yosh RACE bike. You need the cooling capability of the fins & ALL of their surface area. Ray.
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first timer
Forum Sage
i figured the gun kote, and the large earls cooler would be providing the cooling i need. Just reread the CW artical where they dig into the yosh engine and they state that the holes were drilled for cooling, all those holes i drilled i bet i only removed maybe a 1/4lb of material, hardly worth the effort to do only for weight reduction. The artical states to increase air turbulance to help with cooling. Even suzuki drilled six 1/2" holes in their 1100 cylinder block to help with cooling. So I can't be that far off base. Plus it's the head that has the most heat and I am hardly drilling that so most of the surface area should remain intacked. Maybe i'll step down a few of the holes from 1/2" to 3/8".
I am not to worried about heat, Craig Smith has been racing these motors 1200cc's at 12:1 with bunches of holes drilled into them (he was going for mostly looks too) and basic engine enamel no gun kote and hasn't had a heat issue.
If i am putting this much effort to get this bike looking and running like a race bike, over looking the holes wouldn't be real true to form. This bike is a little more then a street bike, I plan to do a few local vintage races with it at some point.
I am not to worried about heat, Craig Smith has been racing these motors 1200cc's at 12:1 with bunches of holes drilled into them (he was going for mostly looks too) and basic engine enamel no gun kote and hasn't had a heat issue.
If i am putting this much effort to get this bike looking and running like a race bike, over looking the holes wouldn't be real true to form. This bike is a little more then a street bike, I plan to do a few local vintage races with it at some point.
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I was about to mention your oil cooler... If you like the look go for it I don't see why it would cause any real problems.
Dan
Dan
Now that I see the back side of that motor, if there is heat trapped behind the carbs, then maybe it will help. Go with what works.
I might mention that on the Yoshi GSXR's they have a heat sheild they put between the engine and carbs to keep heat off of the carbs and cool the air charge which is being directed in through norkles and hoses. It is oil cooled, but if ther wa a lot of heat build up you would think.......
Hey what is with the numbers on the pistons?
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