LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Hate it when I have to redo stuff, but that's how it is sometimes.. One of the connections to the gear indicator wasn't good enough and broke off:
Had to cut them all off to make sure one of them doesn't hold all the load.
I bought some adaptors for the paddock stand. I've used a steel rod through the hollow front axle, but the shop manual says to first torque down the clamping bolts on the short piece (left side) and then tighten the axle bolt to 100Nm/74 ft-lbs. For that I need to use an internal hex tool:
These adapters let the forks rest on the paddock stand, and makes it possible to torque down the axle:
When the axle is tightened, the stand is removed and the fork should be bounced up and down 4-5 times with the weel on the ground. Then the two left clamp bolts are torqued to spec. This ensures there is no unnessesary tension in the axle and that the calipers are aligned.
Had to cut them all off to make sure one of them doesn't hold all the load.
I bought some adaptors for the paddock stand. I've used a steel rod through the hollow front axle, but the shop manual says to first torque down the clamping bolts on the short piece (left side) and then tighten the axle bolt to 100Nm/74 ft-lbs. For that I need to use an internal hex tool:
These adapters let the forks rest on the paddock stand, and makes it possible to torque down the axle:
When the axle is tightened, the stand is removed and the fork should be bounced up and down 4-5 times with the weel on the ground. Then the two left clamp bolts are torqued to spec. This ensures there is no unnessesary tension in the axle and that the calipers are aligned.