LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
And I bought this HEL-kit to replace the rotten lines to the rear caliper:
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1981 gs750 (gs750e) Retro Racer project
- Thread starter LarsKroghStea
- Start date
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Made some progress on the brakes. Or not...
First I sanded and polished the logo on the calipers (they were gold before, and I've previously painted them black):
I'll give them a coat of Eastwood Diamond Clear gloss later.
When I started to mount the brake lines I found out that the GS uses finer threads on the banjo-bolts than the Gixxer:
Also the banjos on the new lines are thinner, so theres no way to use the old bolts with the new lines (except from stacking crush-washers, but I don't that's a very good idea):
And lastly, the lines are very close to long enough, without getting there:
They will work when the fork is compressed by the bikes weight (and mine), but if the fork fully extends over a speedbump or something there will be a risk of damaging the master cylinder. At a cost of 340 dollars, I'm not risking that.
It's off to ebay to order a set of HEL lines for the front. It comes complete with all bolts and washers, so then everything is sorted. I'll still go with the "over fender"-option, as the Accossatos need a brake light switch in the banjo bolt and I already have that one. I also think over the fender routing looks both more stock, and better,
:
First I sanded and polished the logo on the calipers (they were gold before, and I've previously painted them black):
I'll give them a coat of Eastwood Diamond Clear gloss later.
When I started to mount the brake lines I found out that the GS uses finer threads on the banjo-bolts than the Gixxer:
Also the banjos on the new lines are thinner, so theres no way to use the old bolts with the new lines (except from stacking crush-washers, but I don't that's a very good idea):
And lastly, the lines are very close to long enough, without getting there:
They will work when the fork is compressed by the bikes weight (and mine), but if the fork fully extends over a speedbump or something there will be a risk of damaging the master cylinder. At a cost of 340 dollars, I'm not risking that.
It's off to ebay to order a set of HEL lines for the front. It comes complete with all bolts and washers, so then everything is sorted. I'll still go with the "over fender"-option, as the Accossatos need a brake light switch in the banjo bolt and I already have that one. I also think over the fender routing looks both more stock, and better,
:
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Switched out the old rear brake-line with the new HEL-line. Also switched out the master cylinder. The master cylinder was not a great fit at all.. The input line should be perpendicular to the cylinder to avoid the line blocking other components. I will have to find another solution:
I also need to find some rubber sleves or something to make the hose fit the tabs og swingarm.
I also need to find some rubber sleves or something to make the hose fit the tabs og swingarm.
I also need to find some rubber sleves or something to make the hose fit the tabs og swingarm.
An electrical stockist may have some Hellerman cable rubber sleeves, or alternatively just cut a slice from a bicycle inner tube.
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Great tip
I googled Hellermann (looks like they're called HellermannTyton now), and they have this product:
I will try to find a local vendor that lets me buy a couple of samples. They will slide over the banjos and shrink to the size of the brakeline. It doesn't look like the centertubing thickness will build enough material, so I'll probably use both your advices and put a piece of rubber tubing in between the line ande the locating bushes.
Great tip
I will try to find a local vendor that lets me buy a couple of samples. They will slide over the banjos and shrink to the size of the brakeline. It doesn't look like the centertubing thickness will build enough material, so I'll probably use both your advices and put a piece of rubber tubing in between the line ande the locating bushes.
The bushes are cheap, it's the price of the tool to fit them that makes you blink.
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Got the Motogadget Mo.blaze tens today, and they look eksactly as I hoped they would:
I'll drill and tap a hole in the headlight mounts for them:
I'll drill and tap a hole in the headlight mounts for them:
You've really done a fantastic job on this bike. That front end is wild, the whole bike just looks so mean. Job well done. As to the rear hugger fender, you might have to fabricate brackets for that, which would be easy with your skills, and extremely good for the motorcycle. It will keep the back upper inside of the bike nice and clean. 
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
You've really done a fantastic job on this bike. That front end is wild, the whole bike just looks so mean. Job well done. As to the rear hugger fender, you might have to fabricate brackets for that, which would be easy with your skills, and extremely good for the motorcycle. It will keep the back upper inside of the bike nice and clean.
Thank you! And yes, you're right; it would be much better for the bike. I've been searching the web for solutions that would look good on my bike, and I think something like this (but in black, and a little longer) would look good:
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
I mounted the turn signals today, to see how they fit. Turns out they have the same threads as the headlight, so I'll use them there. Will drill and tap for a set screw just behind the blinkers, to set the angle for the headlight. That way I don't need to torque them too much. They're almost unnoticeble
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
The rear master cylinder I mounted, cluttered up the space under the seat:
I decided to alter the angle of the inlet from vertical to horizontal, like it is on the original:
Much better:
I'll make a bracket later, to correct the angle/position of the new master.
I decided to alter the angle of the inlet from vertical to horizontal, like it is on the original:
Much better:
I'll make a bracket later, to correct the angle/position of the new master.
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Not sure where I put the parts for the left pushrod, but I found this turnbuckle. It's for a sailboat, and will not corrode. I think it looks cool too
Just need to cut, straighten and drill a hole in the old gear lever.
I will also need to tap the holes for adjusting the rearset: As you can see on the next picture, the gear pedal has 12 holes with 30 degress separation, and the short transfer lever has 8 holes with 45 degrees of separation. They are connected with four bolts at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position, and by alternating whitch holes are used one can adjust the angle in 15 degree increments.
Just need to cut, straighten and drill a hole in the old gear lever.
I will also need to tap the holes for adjusting the rearset: As you can see on the next picture, the gear pedal has 12 holes with 30 degress separation, and the short transfer lever has 8 holes with 45 degrees of separation. They are connected with four bolts at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock position, and by alternating whitch holes are used one can adjust the angle in 15 degree increments.
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Don't know if you can see it on this picture, but the tabs that I've used to mount the rearset, are not at the correct angle.
This means the footpegs are not perpendicular to the frame. My bike (1981 model) came with pressed metal brackets for the rear footpegs, and they are not suited for modification. I don't know if there were different trim levels, or if it relates to difference between years, but most 1982 GSX750E's I've seen has cast aluminum brackets. If I can get a cheap pair of those (they are cheap, I just need to find some locally as it costs too much to ship them from the US), I will use them as a base for new brackets for the rearsets. That will make it easier to get the alignment and angle right.
This means the footpegs are not perpendicular to the frame. My bike (1981 model) came with pressed metal brackets for the rear footpegs, and they are not suited for modification. I don't know if there were different trim levels, or if it relates to difference between years, but most 1982 GSX750E's I've seen has cast aluminum brackets. If I can get a cheap pair of those (they are cheap, I just need to find some locally as it costs too much to ship them from the US), I will use them as a base for new brackets for the rearsets. That will make it easier to get the alignment and angle right.
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
Well.. I haven't looked at these for years. These are the original footpeg-brackets, with bolts in them to show how the tabs I use for my pegs are placed. I've bent the pegs a little, but thats just a temporary solution. The brackets are also much more angled outwards at the rear than I could remember:
I bought these (actually another set, but similar) on ebay, although the shippong is as much as the parts.
When I get them I will cut them behind the middle hole, and drill and tap new holes for the rearsets. Maybe it's best to fill in the backside with "liquid metal" (don't know what you call it in the US. It's a 2K non shrink, highly adhesive, filler we use to fix boat propellers if we run them against something so they chip). I want the rearsets a little bit lower and more forward than they are now.
I bought these (actually another set, but similar) on ebay, although the shippong is as much as the parts.
When I get them I will cut them behind the middle hole, and drill and tap new holes for the rearsets. Maybe it's best to fill in the backside with "liquid metal" (don't know what you call it in the US. It's a 2K non shrink, highly adhesive, filler we use to fix boat propellers if we run them against something so they chip). I want the rearsets a little bit lower and more forward than they are now.
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LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
And I made a little video of the updated gear indicator:
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
The brake lines arrived today, and while they look awesome, I immediately realized I've made a mistake. I totally forgot to take into account that I've converted my front wheel from the original 17" to 19". I was afraid the "over the fender"-wire would be too short. I mounted them, and they have a natural bend towards the rear. The aluminum fender is made out of a pretty thin material, and it seems like there would be atleast 15mm of air between fender and tyre. Can't see why that would not be sufficient.
As a surprise bonus, the lines had exactly the bushings I was looking for I'll remove two of these amd install them on the rear instead.
As a surprise bonus, the lines had exactly the bushings I was looking for
I'll remove two of these amd install them on the rear instead.
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So many goodies in such a short time. As far as the rear fender, the water usually is thrown tangent to the revolving object, which means the fender would have to be longer, but the bottom end could be a bit shorter. It just has to sit a little higher up on the wheel to keep the splash off the bike and your back. .
LarsKroghStea
Forum Mentor
So many goodies in such a short time. As far as the rear fender, the water usually is thrown tangent to the revolving object, which means the fender would have to be longer, but the bottom end could be a bit shorter. It just has to sit a little higher up on the wheel to keep the splash off the bike and your back. .
Yes, I ordered the longest fender I could find on ebay. I won't be doing long trips on this bike, so it will see minimal rain, but I like the idea of not having alle the dirt making a buildup on the swingarm, leading to moist and rust. But I will try to balance that with the looks
