1983_GS750E - Rebuild

[GateKeeper]

PM sent

I didn't think I would get that lucky that they would be sanded and prepped...LOL

But hey I just might get some (a) tail

Cheers

 

[GateKeeper]

OK, so a little more work tonight, and I mean a little, but it took almost forever, and it's still not complete, as I don't know how to get the air box out it just won't go........am I missing something ?

anyways here are a few pics of what has come out, and what needs still to come out

the lovely carbs......have to do a full rebuild on these guys for sure....

the intake side, and the second on from the right, top screw almost stripped on me, had to use vise grips to grab it and break the hold it had, but finally got it out, lucky me

Need new rubber for sure, it's as flat as a pancake

the air snorkel, and the torn condom....where to get a new one ?

and the box that won't come out

 

[SVSooke]

You have to remove the boots,cam tensioner and loosen all the engine bolts then slide the engine forward as far as possible.Told that works but I just removed the engine every time I did it.
Can get a filter here
5.FILTER 13780-31310 (replaces 13780-31300) 1$32.72$24.94 http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_select.asp
Ordered a bunch of 1000 parts off them and got a good deal on shipping to Canada.Beats the crazy parts prices in Canada.
Don't do pods unless you want to have a lesson in rejetting.Can get it to run right with them I guess but as much as the airbox is a PITA I'd rather have it.

 

[GateKeeper]

WOW, that is gonna be a lot of work, just to get an air box out, I did remove the boots, after the pic I took, cam tensioner ? I guess that is the little thing near the bottom with a spring attached to it, kind has a knob that half turns. I guess I have to remove the exhaust first, good thing it has to come off any ways.

I guess there is still more to go......

Thanks for the tip on the filter

and I didn't power wash the engine or the rest of the bike, before I removed the carbs, now I have to plug the holes really good on the intake, so as I don't get water in there. Anything I should spray the bike down with before I use the power wash....?

I guess power washing will be OK, even if I get everything wet, as it will have time to dry over the winter....

Cheers and Thanks again....


I am really tempted to go with the pods, I don't mind the jetting, figured it should be done since I have the Yosh pipe already, but I will give it some more thought

 

[SVSooke]

Thing with pods is they don't really make more power.Mostly they make more noise so it seems faster.Did a "desnorkle" mod on my SV650S,a ton more induction noise and i felt like the engine was doing more.OK for a day or so then I put the snorkel back on.It was not worth the racket.Belive me when I forgot to put the box in when we where putting Old Yeller back togther I was tempted to go pods.I am happy I did not,but that's me.

 

[GateKeeper]

maybe I just leave the box where it is, clean around it as best I can, and take it from there. I might not need to do a full tear down of the bike, it looks really good, just a lot of old oil and grime that needs to be cleaned up. And maybe a touch here and there of some paint.

Cheers

 

[GateKeeper]

Well no new work on the bike, right now, I am at work, but I did make an order for all of this....

CV 'BS' series carb O-ring kit, shipped outside of U.S. $16.00

Bowl drain O-rings (only with CV Carb kit purchase) $0.01

Viton Intake boot O-ring set, large (38MM) $3.91

Additional postage for outside U.S. $0.90

20mm Stainless fastener kit, $4.85 (1.65 s/h) $6.50

Additional postage outside the US or Canada $1.75

and yes new ones of these as well

getting there bit by bit.....

 

[Smokinapankake]

I've read here and there that the airbox can be removed without pulling the head but I fail to see how it's possible. My 84 Katana is virtually the same bike (but with prettier clothing) and I'm telling you I went the rounds trying to get the carbs in and out for cleaning. Do it right, do it once, and don't mess with pods. Like SV Sooke says, as much a PITA as the air box is I'd rather have it than pods.

Looks like you've got a good handle on what you need to do; keep it up and when you're done ride the wheels off that thing!

 

[GateKeeper]

@Smokinapankake - I think the air box will stay where it is....you are one of many that says to leave it where it is and how it is, just do the the carbs the right way, and all will be good...


I think your all correct, it's a PITA, and I really don't want to do it,,,remove the air box that is....so it will probably stay.

I am not planning on removing the entire motor, unless I really have to, but at this point I don't see a need other to may be paint it properly ? Unless there are words of wisdom as to why I need to take it apart, and why I would be doing that, is there something in the engine I really need to do ?

I got one bolt off the headers this afternoon at lunch and loosened one more, man they are on tight, and I have this bad feeling, that one ore more are gonna strip on me........they are allen head bolts, I believe 8mm, and are in good.......spraying lots of lube and taking my time....

Pics to follow....

 

[GateKeeper]

Well tonight was good and bad....

I have taken off the exhaust, but I ran into a problem, and I do hope I can remedy it, without having to take the motor out......

so here is how it went

to get this

I had to take out these

and as you can see one is shorter from all the others, because part of it is still in here

So that is issue one, the other is the pipe itself, is this too far gone, or is there hope ?

I would really like to keep this pipe......it's so cool

Need to get the dents out, paint her up, polish up that tip a bit, and she should be good for another 25 years.....

Tell me I am not crazy....

 

[SVSooke]

Think that tool I linked you can just reach that top one,I think:-k.The rest will be good to go.

 

[GateKeeper]

Any specifics on the tool, length, diameter, and what size ball should I weld onto the end of the rod.

Is it then just a matter of sliding it in and out of the tubes ? over the indent to punch it back out ? I am sure a hammer will be used for sure....

Thanks

EDIT - seems the ball is about the same diameter as the pipe itself ? from what I can see in this picture, and do I just wire wheel the pipes, or sand blast them, and then paint ?

 

[SVSooke]

It's a 1" ball bearing on a mild steel rod.I relived the welds inside the pipe at the collector,Then used an ordinary hammer to push it down the pipe.Greasing it helps get it back out.Apparently it's not easy to weld hardened and mild steel.A 20x3/8" steel rod.

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks....

I have a really good welder friend, will tell him what I need, and let him worry on how to weld it...LOL

 

[Smokinapankake]

As far as your stuck/broken header bolt-
A chemist friend at work has informed me that ammonia will attack the aluminum oxide, thereby breaking the bond between the steel bolt and the aluminum head. I've used this trick to remove an aluminum seatpost stuck in a steel bicycle frame so I don't see any reason why this won't work on your head. Might be a bit difficult to get the ammonia in there but I imagine a spray bottle and a few taps on the end of the stuck bolt might help. Let it soak for a while.

See this article for more info:
http://sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html

Scroll down to paragraph 8 under the Cure section.
There is some other interesting info there if you're into bicycles.....

 

[GateKeeper]

Thanks for the link and the tip....

I got nothing to lose, so I might as well try it, just not sure if the ammonia will penetrate around the threads enough to loosen it up, so as I can screw it out, there really is not much sticking out either, worse case scenario is I will have to drill the part out, and chase the thread to make em good again.

here is step 8

Aluminum seatposts frequently become stuck by corrosion also, and penetrating oil is almost useless against aluminum oxide. Fortunately, aluminum oxide can be dissolved like magic by using ammonia. [Jobst Brandt doesn't think this works, because the ammonia won't penetrate -- see his comments on stuck handlebar stems. Drano drain cleaner in water also dissolves aluminum oxide. Leaving the frame upside down with the seatpost soaking in one of these liquids may possibly free the seatpost. With the frame upside down, you might also run liquid down from inside as described in additional suggestions.-- John Allen]

 

[Dodik]

for the headers you can also try a sliding hammer and a stud welder. same process as used in dent removal.

 

[GateKeeper]

yes you are correct, however the expense is much more, don't have the sliding hammer, and no stud welder, so the big ball on the end of a rod, will be the cheap way, and hopefully it will work, if not I can start looking at more drastic solutions

not being cheap, just frugal.....LOL

 

[Smokinapankake]

Drilling and chasing is extremely difficult. The difficulty lies not in the work itself, rather, in getting that damm drill started in the exact center of your broken bolt. IF you can get it started in the center of the bolt, and IF you can drill normal (perpendicular) to the surface, and IF you don't drill too far and punch a hole in your head, you may stand a chance.

IF you can accomplish all these things while sitting on the floor with a hand drill then by Gawd you're a human machine/machinist.

Of course, once the bolt is removed you can chase threads or drill and tap for a helicoil or some other similar thread repair device (Keensert, timesert, etc...) but be sure to run the tap down in straight as well.

Sounds dire, and in some cases it is, but it can be done. I did it on my 84 Kat on 5 of the 8 bolts. Not that mine were centered, but I got extremely lucky in that they were close enough to center that I didn't drill into the head and I could still fit my stock exhaust flanges. I really should have pulled the head for that many broken/stuck bolts and I may just pull it in the future to fix it properly.

At any rate, get as much info as you can and decide from there. There are many other ways to skin this cat, and I think the main ingredient required will be PATIENCE.

Good luck!

 

[GateKeeper]

@Smokinapankake - your right I am gonna take my time on this for sure, don't want to make it worse.

I am going to give it some thought, got other things to work on, like the carbs, the O ring kit has been shipped, and the carbs are sitting in a bucket of Pine Sol, just checked on them and they are looking good.....

We have done some awesome work sitting on the garage floor.....LOL