1983_GS750E - Rebuild

[Guest]

Looks like you've spent quite a bit of time in front of the wire wheel no? I've probably spent 8hrs on the wheel with the little CR80 i've been working on. Thankfully that's almost done and ready to sell. I will be spending even more time with the Zook. One things for sure, thank the good Lord for those wire wheels or the job would really suck.

As far as the bolt, it almost sounds like someone used red thread lock on it. I have yet to see one of those cold welded in the hole. Did any of the other bolts have anything on the threads when you took them out? If so, I would go get some thread lock dissolver and try that as well. Also, tap lightly with a hammer on the outside of that bolt threads once you heat it up. That has worked for me in the past. Sometimes it just needs to be knocked loose in the threads.

Also, I once had one that was really stubborn and it came to having to drill it out. No other choice. Anyway, I started with a small bit first and gradually moved to larger bits, lubricating the bit as I went along. Well, once I got about 75% of the bolts material drilled out, it actually came loose and I was able to thread it out. I guess once enough material was taken away, either the bolt gave way or the process of heating and vibration from drilling loosened whatever was holding it on.

Good luck GK.

Sci85

 

[GateKeeper]

I don't even want to see my electric bill......LOL

 

[SVSooke]

I paint my bolt heads http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=170297

 

[GateKeeper]

I paint my bolt heads http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=170297

Great idea.....I wanted to keep them shiny, but they will probably rust, so paint them I will...

and the baking in the BBQ is a great idea......

 

[brslk]

Great idea.....I wanted to keep them shiny, but they will probably rust, so paint them I will...

and the baking in the BBQ is a great idea......

I was thinking about replacing most of my bolts but I could probably paint them and "bake" them in the BBQ and save myself a lot of expense and hassle.

Excellent idea!

Bruce.

 

[Guest]

Elegant. Have always wire wheeled them but never painted them unless they were already on a part being painted. So, how do you get them back on the part without damaging the paint? I can't see that lasting past the first few turns much less something that needed some real torque on it. Divulge the secrets!

Sci85

 

[GateKeeper]

Looks like you've spent quite a bit of time in front of the wire wheel no? I've probably spent 8hrs on the wheel with the little CR80 i've been working on. Thankfully that's almost done and ready to sell. I will be spending even more time with the Zook. One things for sure, thank the good Lord for those wire wheels or the job would really suck.



Sci85

yup spent many hours so far on that wire wheel, wore one down already, going to have to buy another one soon, still a few pieces to go....

you don't paint after you wire wheel

Did they end up rusting on you, or discoloring on you, since you did not paint them but you did wire wheel them, this does remove the protective coating does it not...

I would imagine after they have been put on and torqued to spec, some touch up would be required ?

 

[Guest]

Did they end up rusting on you, or discoloring on you, since you did not paint them but you did wire wheel them, this does remove the protective coating does it not...

Well, in my world of dirt bikes, the bolts usually get covered in dirt so if they do they don't show. And, we take things apart much more often than a street bike so you are hitting them on the wheel fairly often. So I've never really noticed. This is my first street bike rebuild so I can't say long term what happens. I imagine those that see water often probably do rust up. Heck, even the factory ones with the coating did. Or maybe not all the bolts were plated?

I'm sure some of the vets here can provide some long term input. But good to know before I go whacking every nut and bolt on the Zook.

Sci85

 

[GateKeeper]

Well too late for me, I whacked everyone of them......

with the wire brush that is.....

Maybe new nuts and bolts will be the way to go, but I will use the existing ones first, paint them, and see how they hold up over time,,,,maybe a clear spray of laquer on each one would be good ?

 

[brslk]

Well too late for me, I whacked everyone of them......

with the wire brush that is.....

Maybe new nuts and bolts will be the way to go, but I will use the existing ones first, paint them, and see how they hold up over time,,,,maybe a clear spray of laquer on each one would be good ?

In the past I have had some success with bolts I couldn't find new ones for that I wire wheeled and then cleared once they were already fastened (masking around them first). But laquer is not the way to go. A two part paint such as Endura or a clear Enamel is much better.

Bruce.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

When re-installing bolts / nuts that I have already painted, I have an old thin t-shirt (don't we all) that I lay over the bolt head then push the socket / wrench onto. It helps to use a 6-point and one that is a little worn. Some will need touched up afterwards but not as bad as if you just stuck a 12-point on there and torqued it down...
I have also cut the fingers out of those thin disposable latex or neoprene gloves and slipped it over the socket like a condom to get into places that trying to cram the t-shirt into isn't a easy solution.

 

[Redneck]

My $.02 replace all the nuts and bolts you can if you plan on keeping it around. I have found that after 30 years the nuts and bolts start getting soft and falling apart way to easily especially if they were external bolts. I am trying to replace everything external with stainless.

Paul

 

[Guest]

I would do that but the local ACE and such do not carry metric bolts that have the flange built in which is the majority of the type of bolt on Japanese bikes. I usually only replace missing or jacked up bolts on the dirt bikes and since they are so specific, I order factory replacements. However, that's not economical for soemthing large scale.

Where are you sourcing the stainless bits and are the oem style replacements or ?

Sci85

 

[GateKeeper]

Lot's of great ideas........

Thanks to all for the input...

I got some nuts/bolts from this place, not sure if they ship outside of Canada

http://www.brafasco.com/default.asp

 

[cowboyup3371]

Wow, your Ace is messed up as mine here in Colorado Springs has them. If you want, send me the money and I'll send some back to you.

 

[Guest]

Wow, your Ace is messed up as mine here in Colorado Springs has them. If you want, send me the money and I'll send some back to you.

You mean your ACE carries the flanged metic bolts? If so that is weird. Even HD doesn't have the flanged ones here.

Anyhow, I did some net searching and found a place called Mr. metric that has some standard flange metric bolts in grade 8.8 (grade 5 imperial) steel zinc coated. Not a lot of length choices though. Site says a 1.75 pitch, 40mm length is $1.39. Wonder how that compares with ACE.

SCI85

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Is there a Fastenal around?

 

[cowboyup3371]

Sorry HD but I would stay away from Fastenal after they screwed me over by refusing to just order me a couple that I needed instead of the entire box.

Sci, I just bought flanged metric ones for my brake calipers from Ace using the automotive grade they had. Like I said, I'm willing to check for you if you want (send me the sizes you need).

 

[Guest]

Sorry HD but I would stay away from Fastenal after they screwed me over by refusing to just order me a couple that I needed instead of the entire box.

Sci, I just bought flanged metric ones for my brake calipers from Ace using the automotive grade they had. Like I said, I'm willing to check for you if you want (send me the sizes you need).

Cool. Will do cowboyup. Just getting started cleaning the engine off as best I can before I start working on it. I will start compiling a list and send over to ya when I have a decent enough feel for what I need. Thx!

Sci85

 

[GateKeeper]

Thinking....

Thinking....

So here I am at work, very quiet evening, and going through all the posts as they come up, and a few questions come to mind.....

So I would like to ask of all you wise ones out there, or those even with an opinion, on a few items

I was thinking of using this JB Weld stuff for the 3 items that are causing me the most grief at the moment, and I am not sure if it's a good way of going about it or not.

Firstly the FRAME, was going to make up something to wrap around the dinged part and then pour in as much JB stuff in, let it cure, then grind/sand it down to even it out with the rest of the frame, prime and or just paint as I planned on doing the rest of the frame. Frame is not bent it's straight, it's only this part that has been knocked in, that I want to make back even with the rest of it...Do you think this is a good idea ????

My next thing was to use JB in the two holes, one in the head, and one on the hole for the oil cover, was going to drill out some more, well enough to remove all traces of the old bolts that were in there, and then fill up with JB and then drill new holes and then tap new ones, for the head I was going to go with studs this time anyways, or I will get a new head from a fellow board member here and not worry about the bad hole,,and for the oil side, I have new SS bolts from Z1, so maybe I get a helicoil and set it in the JB weld....Do you think this is a good idea ????

yes the broken bolt is in the picture, but I have since drilled it out, and now have a large hole there

And lastly,,,,,the shocks, should I leave them black, just clean up a bit more and re paint them, or should I remove all of the paint, and buff them out and give em the aluminum polished look, as I will be doing to all of the engine covers. Do you think this is a good idea ????

So all comments are most welcome