S
Skateguy50
Guest
Has the shim club sent you shims yet?
Let us know how the battle goes and if it was just the shims after all.
Let us know how the battle goes and if it was just the shims after all.
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Backfiring causes?
- Thread starter Allie
- Start date
Allie
Forum Sage
Arg it's been crazy here, I haven't even sent the deposit out yet for the shims... Must do it tomorrow! I did get some Mapp gas today while I was toilet shopping, so I will give that a shot on that exhaust stud. I'm positive it was valve clearances but I will certainly keep y'all posted!
Allie
Forum Sage
I got my shims today, many thanks to the Shim Club. All the valves are in spec now, but I have a few things to do before I run the bike again.
1. Before I put the carbs back on I will test them for sticky floats using my home made auxiliary gas supply, I was having a little trouble with that.
2. I will buy some of that freezy stuff to try on the exhaust bolt, and also see if I can use MAPP gas on it. The design of the torch seems to rule out using MAPP alone, I must use oxygen to get a usable flame. I'm thinking the 'soldering/heat treating flame is the one to use.
3. A quick mod to my petcock so that it has a manual 'off' position, so I can at least run the bike for getting the carbs dialed in. I'll be replacing it soon with an aftermarket from Z-1.
4. I need to get a stainless steel stud kit and put the exhaust system back on.
6. Change the oil, and the plugs
5. All the other miscellaneous reassembly.
I've been kind of busy with the Fall semester, but things should even out now and I'll have a little time to work on it.
1. Before I put the carbs back on I will test them for sticky floats using my home made auxiliary gas supply, I was having a little trouble with that.
2. I will buy some of that freezy stuff to try on the exhaust bolt, and also see if I can use MAPP gas on it. The design of the torch seems to rule out using MAPP alone, I must use oxygen to get a usable flame. I'm thinking the 'soldering/heat treating flame is the one to use.
3. A quick mod to my petcock so that it has a manual 'off' position, so I can at least run the bike for getting the carbs dialed in. I'll be replacing it soon with an aftermarket from Z-1.
4. I need to get a stainless steel stud kit and put the exhaust system back on.
6. Change the oil, and the plugs
5. All the other miscellaneous reassembly.
I've been kind of busy with the Fall semester, but things should even out now and I'll have a little time to work on it.
Allie
Forum Sage
Quick update
Quick update
Das Frankenbiken runs again. It's aliiiiiiiiiive! It also smokes more than a 1940's movie star, I think it's running a bit rich.... but it starts very easily now. What a beautiful sound!
By the way umm, when I first tried it I got another backfire. The first time around I never got to rechecking the ignition timing, which is always good advice, because I was so deep into the other stuff which obviously needed attention. After it backfired again I started prodding around the breaker plate and
all the adjustments were loose so there was quite a bit of 'break dancing' going on. Did I mention ? Oh well that mental lapse got me to take care of a dire situation (valve lash), so it's all for the best. Oh and before I put the carbs on I did a quickie compression test, cold, just a few kicks on the kick starter. All the cylinders were fairly uniform at about 110-120 psi, and readings are typically higher when cranking the electric start. I think the engine is in a good state of health now, so it's time to start dialing those carbs in. I'll be rereading whatever tutorials there are on it, but it seems that turning the fuel screws on the bottom gradually in is the first thing to do, assuming it's rich. I hope to start on Monday.
Quick update
Das Frankenbiken runs again. It's aliiiiiiiiiive! It also smokes more than a 1940's movie star, I think it's running a bit rich.... but it starts very easily now. What a beautiful sound!
By the way umm, when I first tried it I got another backfire. The first time around I never got to rechecking the ignition timing, which is always good advice, because I was so deep into the other stuff which obviously needed attention. After it backfired again I started prodding around the breaker plate and
all the adjustments were loose so there was quite a bit of 'break dancing' going on. Did I mention ? Oh well that mental lapse got me to take care of a dire situation (valve lash), so it's all for the best. Oh and before I put the carbs on I did a quickie compression test, cold, just a few kicks on the kick starter. All the cylinders were fairly uniform at about 110-120 psi, and readings are typically higher when cranking the electric start. I think the engine is in a good state of health now, so it's time to start dialing those carbs in. I'll be rereading whatever tutorials there are on it, but it seems that turning the fuel screws on the bottom gradually in is the first thing to do, assuming it's rich. I hope to start on Monday.
R
robaroni
Guest
I just read this whole string from beginning to end. It's like a who done it with a happy ending! Even had a Princess Bride reference. Not every guy would catch that. Now I thing I'm going to go buy a pie at the local farm!
Took me a long time, 1 1/2 times reading the thread to find the Princess Bride reference.
I liked the Star Trek reference better.
I liked the Star Trek reference better.
Allie
Forum Sage
It's true, I am the Lorelei Gilmore of motorcycling.
Allie
Forum Sage
I'm glad, I was going to ask how that finally went for you. Here's to some nice crisp fall riding!
S
Skateguy50
Guest
Only took 9 pages to get you going again.
Glad it worked out for you without having to open the engine up and do a top end rebuild, most of us would have been to frustrated and dug in deeper right away. Your patience paid off and riding in the fall is your reward.
Been a while since I read through this thread, now I got to find the Princess Bride reference. One of my all time favorite movies. Now that you avoided the flame spouts and the lightning sand just look out for those R.O.U.S.'s
Glad it worked out for you without having to open the engine up and do a top end rebuild, most of us would have been to frustrated and dug in deeper right away. Your patience paid off and riding in the fall is your reward.
Been a while since I read through this thread, now I got to find the Princess Bride reference. One of my all time favorite movies. Now that you avoided the flame spouts and the lightning sand just look out for those R.O.U.S.'s
Allie
Forum Sage
I didn't see any R.O.U.S's but I did have a vicious attack rabbit lunge at my throat tonight. After a little twiddling I got the bike running well enough to ride it!
Here's the patient hooked up to an IV of gasoline:
And a close up, ticking over nicely at 1500:
I took a video of the shakedown run, but you can't see much besides darkness and lights, nor hear anything but wind because I didn't put the wind sock back on my camera yet. I'll take a better vid this week.
The bike runs so bloody WELL now! Boy it's really true you don't notice incremental changes very well. I knew it didn't have that top end rush the way it used to, but it pulls so much harder now right off of idle all the way across the board. I was grinning from ear to ear inside the helmet tonight! It also starts pretty much instantly when cold, and warms up to where it doesn't need the choke after a minute or two. It's never done that before, I venture to say this is the best the bike has ever run for me.
Thank you all so much for your help, indulgence, and patience - I'll be posting a video soon, and will surely grab a riding tag or two at the first opportunity!
Sincerely,
Allie 'The Hammer' Babble
Here's the patient hooked up to an IV of gasoline:
And a close up, ticking over nicely at 1500:
I took a video of the shakedown run, but you can't see much besides darkness and lights, nor hear anything but wind because I didn't put the wind sock back on my camera yet. I'll take a better vid this week.
The bike runs so bloody WELL now! Boy it's really true you don't notice incremental changes very well. I knew it didn't have that top end rush the way it used to, but it pulls so much harder now right off of idle all the way across the board. I was grinning from ear to ear inside the helmet tonight! It also starts pretty much instantly when cold, and warms up to where it doesn't need the choke after a minute or two. It's never done that before, I venture to say this is the best the bike has ever run for me.
Thank you all so much for your help, indulgence, and patience - I'll be posting a video soon, and will surely grab a riding tag or two at the first opportunity!
Sincerely,
Allie 'The Hammer' Babble
S
Skateguy50
Guest
Congratulations on getting out for a ride again, nothing beats that feeling after a few weeks of withdrawal.
Funny you mention the rabbit, saw an ad for spam a lot playing up in Worcester... but I already got plans to be camping and hiking that weekend.
Funny you mention the rabbit, saw an ad for spam a lot playing up in Worcester... but I already got plans to be camping and hiking that weekend.
A
almarconi
Guest
Did you ever get the broken exhaust stud out?
I just broke one on my KZ 750 and am going to attempt to remove it. The stud broke below the surface of the head so this is going to be fun
I just broke one on my KZ 750 and am going to attempt to remove it. The stud broke below the surface of the head so this is going to be fun
S
Skateguy50
Guest
I have a feeling she has that pipe installed with 1 solid bolt, but maybe she got it out. (I know I would just slap it on an call it good till winter)
A
almarconi
Guest
Since its a project bike, I'm in no hurry. Would prefer to replace all the studs with new ones while I have the exhaust off the bike.
S
Skateguy50
Guest
Ahh, well I more meant with her bike being unriden for a while if I was her I would ride it either way. However for you it sounds like your best bet is to take your time and pull the head.
You can drill and helicoil it much cleaner that way, and if you need to take them off a lot (some folks need to remove the pipes to change the oil) I would go with studs. I just put new ss bolts in with antiseize on mine and called it day.
You can drill and helicoil it much cleaner that way, and if you need to take them off a lot (some folks need to remove the pipes to change the oil) I would go with studs. I just put new ss bolts in with antiseize on mine and called it day.
Allie
Forum Sage
Yes I did slap the pipes on with the the broken bolt still in. I tried a couple of times to fire up that MAPP torch, without success. I followed instructions but I'm still not getting it right.
At any rate the pipes are coming back off this winter. I cleaned them up quite a bit, but over the winter they will get some methodical attention in my basement, and I'll have that time to work on the bolt too. It seems pretty solid now, there's no weight or pressure to speak of on the one good bolt. The pipe fits snugly in the head, and the bottom weight is supported by the muffler, which is solidly bolted to the frame. I figure I will just check it often for loosening if I do much riding in the mean time.
At any rate the pipes are coming back off this winter. I cleaned them up quite a bit, but over the winter they will get some methodical attention in my basement, and I'll have that time to work on the bolt too. It seems pretty solid now, there's no weight or pressure to speak of on the one good bolt. The pipe fits snugly in the head, and the bottom weight is supported by the muffler, which is solidly bolted to the frame. I figure I will just check it often for loosening if I do much riding in the mean time.
G
Guest
Guest
Good approach. You get some giggles now. Endless wrenching isn't much fun. Riding reminds you why you wrench, provides energy for taking care of exhaust over the winter.
S
Skateguy50
Guest
Dont you just love happy endings!
Maybe you should update the first post for those that find this later in a search with the final solution, MUCH smaller shims.
Maybe you should update the first post for those that find this later in a search with the final solution, MUCH smaller shims.
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