Bastardizing A Tank, advice?

[BentRod]

so reading all these cafe projects has got me wanting to fix the dent in my tank with bondo and repaint it. I bought some bondo, automotive primer and paint (rattle cans) I got sand paper (finest they had was 1500)

so what next?

 

[UncleMike]

so reading all these cafe projects has got me wanting to fix the dent in my tank with bondo and repaint it. I bought some bondo, automotive primer and paint (rattle cans) I got sand paper (finest they had was 1500)

so what next?

Now all you gotta do is fix it!

 

[beergood]

Sand and clean the area of the dent.

It's a lot easier to work with smaller thin layers of bondo, and let it set well before sanding. Keep applying layers till you get it right.

After you have the basic shape right and fairly smooth, go over it with bondo glazing putty. I can't stress this enough. This step goes a long way to getting a pro looking result.

Then prime and paint.

 

[beergood]

Oh yeah, don't be afraid to screw up. Bondo sands off pretty easier, so you can always get back to a blank canvas.

 

[chinto]

use a much courser grit to sand the dent before applying the bondo. A course grit will allow for a better surface for the filler to bond to. Use the 1500 for finishing.

 

[BentRod]

I got 180, 320, 800 and 1500 grit.... sound ok?

I'm going to give this a shot, just becaue I'm curious to see if i can do it...
if it fails, I'm going to tremclad it brown and leave it until i can find someone to do it properly on the cheep

 

[Guest]

Don't forget the Glazing Compound to finish the job. Its easier to work with when you're filling sanding marks, etc.

 

[beergood]

honestly, the hardest part is the patience it takes to get the shape right. If you aren't in a hurry you will be fine.

 

[oldschoolorange]

Just take your time with it, Like some of the other guys said use thin coats and then finish it off with glazing putty. if you only have some small dings in the tank you could try filling it with water and then pressurizing it to see if they will pop out

 

[BentRod]

hmm,.. the ding is small but mighty, and rather sharp.. it probably wont. more likely to rupture.

oh well.. I gotta strip and sand first.. and that wont be until after some midterms...

I'm very hesitant on this, I have never done this before. and my buddy has just given me the rattle can of brown... friends eh?

 

[Mike_H]

make sure you mix enough hardener in. I have been having a couple problems with this, as its kind of a feel thing, the mixing directions on the package leave a little to be desired. Anyway, if you don't have enough hardener, the bondo will ball up on your sandpaper, and get you so frustrated, you'll swear you'll never do it again. It'll chew up paper too... Also don't mix more than you can use in 5-10 min. If you've got enough hardener, it'll set in that amount of time..

Oh yeah, don't play with it too much once its on the surface. you'll just make a mess.

I'm still learning how to bondo, the hard way.

 

[beergood]

Think of this as your virginity (hopefully you have lost that, if not, then this analogy won't make any sense.). It seems like a crazy big deal till you have done it. Once you cross that bridge you won't worry about the attempt, just how to get better.

 

[tfb]

honestly, the hardest part is the patience it takes to get the shape right. If you aren't in a hurry you will be fine

Sage advice indeed.

 

[jonesti]

make sure you mix enough hardener in. I have been having a couple problems with this, as its kind of a feel thing, the mixing directions on the package leave a little to be desired. Anyway, if you don't have enough hardener, the bondo will ball up on your sandpaper,

The actual Bondo brand body filler is notorious for doing this. A quality filler, such as Evercoat, sands and levels so much better you will kick yourself for not using it in the first place.

Don't sweat doing this. Like has been said, you can just sand it off if ya goof up!

 

[Road_Clam]

Bastardizing A Tank, advice?

I never heard this term.
Why are you swearing at your fuel tank? Is the dent not cooperating?

 

[bonanzadave]

Im just living with the dents. Each one has a great / not so great story behind it.

Use a sanding block so your repair is not wavy gravy. Good luck.

 

[byrdman76]

I just finished up with my tank and tail section on my bike - my first attempt with Bondo so i know how you feel. I found that mixing up a golfball size amount at a time and working with that worked much better than mixing up a larger portion and trying to get it all worked out before it began to harden - which actually happens pretty quick if you used the correct amount of hardener. Also pick up a "cheese grater" at any auto parts store to knock down the bondo before it has completely hardened. let it sit up for about five minutes. This will allow you to shape it and remove any unwanted material allot easier than trying to sand it down once it has completely hardened.

Goodluck

 

[BentRod]

life is getting better

life is getting better

so I just got offered a chance to practice.

I'm involved in the up keep of the McMaster Engineering Car Pool... no not a take you to work kinda pool.. more like a 1980 Chev, with the interior ripped out, and a hot tub fiberglassed into it.
I have done some steel work in the past, so I'm going to be take out the hammers and getting some dings out, and then I'm going to practice my bondo on the chev. by the time we are done that, the tank will be nothing, also keeps me from having to pay for bondo.. I know its only 10 bucks, but when you are a student, every bit is painful to let go of.

 

[BentRod]

walk me through this

walk me through this

ok.. so here is what I have to work with.. and lots of time to think about it befor I start stripping

first off, not going with bondo. tried it, hate it. Friend tipped me towards JB Weld steel epoxy.

I got all MotoMaster rattle can automotive paint.
Red Oxide Primer
'Near Match' Red and Black
Clear Coat

I have 80grit, 320grit, 600grit, 1500grit and 2000grit sandpaper, for wet sanding.

I got Tuttle Wax Rubbing Compound as well as the wax. I heard something about sealer? what is it? should i grab some?

I'm looking to do some stripes (of sorts) on this tank for sure, so I'll be doing so masking. I'm thinking that I'll probably be putting 7 to 10 coats of paint on this tank, but I'm not really sure. I'm not entirely sure which grit to use when, how to tell if I've sanded it enough, and so forth. should i sand the primer at all?

I have been doing some sketches of what I want to do. I'll post them when i have a good one i like.

Thanks everyone!

 

[n1elkyfan]

I've worked in a bodyshop for the last 3 years and figured I'd put in my two cents.

Body filler can be a great resource if you take the time to learn how to use it. Heres the basic steps for working with bodyfiller

1. Try and get as much of the dent out as possible. This can be done by either hammering the dent out from the back side. Drilling a hole and using pull rods(not a good idea for a gas tank unless you welded the hole up. also not a good idea.) or using a prying tool to go through a hole and push the dent out. (this would be the best way for a gas tank see as there is a big hole on the top. just make sure not to put dents around this when you are prying out your other dent.)

2. Grind down to bare metal far enough out so that any body filler will not being sitting on paint that is not sanded.(If you think it is big enough go 1/2 inch further.)

3. Mix up your bondo making sure to use enough harderner. but dont mix up more then you can use in five minutes.

4. Start speading your body filler by building up in the center of your dent and spreading it out to the edges making it thinner as you get further away. If it start to gum up quit immeditly because working it more will only cause it to get worse.

5a. If it is just a small dent and you only need to use a small amount of body filler(less then 1/8 inch thick). then let it fully harden before going to step 6
5b. If it is a big dent and you need a lot of body filler(more then an 1/8 inch thick) then start sanding(with 80 grit) into a ruff shape after it quits from being tacky but not yet fully hard. This will make the process go faster.

6. when it is fully hard and close to shape start sanding with 180 grit and try and get it as close to shape as possible. Remeber to stop sanding and run your hand over it very often to really feel how it is coming along. If there are still low spots dont be afraid to go back to step 3 and sart over. This is very commen the bigger the dent gets.

7. Once you get the shape as close to perfect as you can feather all your paint edges around the dent.

8. Using a primer/filler do three medum coats making sure not to run it and making sure you let the primer flash(when it no longer is tacky) between coats.

9. Once the primer is dry look real close if you see any little holes spread a little body filler over the holes and let it dry before proceding

10. Then get some cheap paint of a contrasting color to your primer. This will be a guide coat.

11. Start sanding the primer with 320 grit in a criss cross pattern( make x's as you go. changing direction during each swipe.) As you sand watch your guide coat. Where it disaperys it is high and were it remains it is low. don't be afraid if you have to go back to step 8 and reapply your primer, but if you need to do this more then twice you probally need to go back to step 3 and put more body filler on and try and get the shape close.

12. If you need to fix more dents and will not be painting right away spay one or two coats of sealer on it to protect just make sure that any paint it goes over is sanded with 320.

13. Before you paint sand the entire part with 320.

This is were I will end this post if you want I will post about painting.

I wouldn't go with JB weld. It will be even harder to shape and if you prep right body filler will will adhere with no problem to the metal.