Ducati Cucciolo

[john82q]

Pete,

What if we cut the brown set say 2 inchs from the top.
and cut the black ones say 1 inch from the top.
then braze the black legs on to the brown top.
(hoping they telescope together a bit for strengh.)


semi instant 28 inch forks?

Or scrap metal

Bring it round ill have a go...

John

 

[Charlie G]

Pete,

What if we cut the brown set say 2 inchs from the top.
and cut the black ones say 1 inch from the top.
then braze the black legs on to the brown top.
(hoping they telescope together a bit for strengh.)


semi instant 28 inch forks?

Or scrap metal

Bring it round ill have a go...

John

I was thinking that there must some way to make this work.

cg

 

[Guest]

Pete,

What if we cut the brown set say 2 inchs from the top.
and cut the black ones say 1 inch from the top.
then braze the black legs on to the brown top.
(hoping they telescope together a bit for strengh.)


semi instant 28 inch forks?

Or scrap metal

Bring it round ill have a go...

John

Hmmm... might be worth a shot John... I didn't think that would be possible!

Having said that, I finally got a photo from a lady that has a Malvern Star 28" fork but there may be an issue with the thread and she is checking further.

I also got a PM from the bicycle forum from a guy who's offering me another nearly complete 2 Star like mine for a very good price, although if I go that path I'll have to wait until next pay day but he's in no rush. The good thing with that is it has better handlebars for this project and the head stem looks like it's genuine for the age.

I was thinking that there must some way to make this work.

cg

Yep I know what you mean Charlie!

 

[john82q]

issue with the thread and she is checking further.

snap it up, we can fix the thread, if not graft the steer tube from one of the others on ...

 

[Guest]

I'll see what price she wants first

However, I'm going to go for the nearly complete bicycle as it has some other bits I need (correct head stem and crank I think) as well as some more suitable 'bars for this project. The frame and wheels look like they may be in better condition than this one, so if they are I might just use it depending on age.

I still may get the forks too, and that way I can do up a pair and sell one to recoup some $$$. They seem to sell quite well when they're all prettied up.

 

[Guest]

Spoke to the guy with the bicycle today and looks like next Sunday's all go to pick it up. Haven't heard back from the lady with the forks again yet... no surprise there!

 

[Guest]

Picked the Malvern Star 2 Star up today, much better condition than what I have now! It has 28" x 1 3/8" wheels so I'll still use the 28" x 1 1/2" wheels I got a little while back.

Serial number appears to be 06946 and I need to verify the age yet, but I suspect it's going to be a little earlier than the other one.

I haven't been able to get the right crank off yet which means the bottom bracket is still in and I can't bolt the motor to it, but holding the left crankcase cover up shows it's looking good for clearance:

This is cool, it has a little lid on the bottom bracket grease nipple:

It seems to be original paint work and still has all the pinstriping but the decals appear to be gone:

And tonight I got the left crank off, front wheel off, and seat off and started mocking it all up. Mudguards are on, new seat is on, and I put the front 28" x 1 1/2" wheel on:

 

[gs scott]

Pete,
Awesome score! :clap: It's got nice 'bars too.
Tough call on the paint with so much original there, and the pinstripes....

 

[Guest]

Pete,
Awesome score! :clap: It's got nice 'bars too.
Tough call on the paint with so much original there, and the pinstripes....

Cheers Scott! Yep, those 'bars are definitely much better for what it will be used for.

As for the paint, there's definitely not enough left there to justify leaving it in that condition, but I will be taking as many detailed photos of it as I can for future reference. If I stay with the theme (seems to be black and cream with yellow pinstriping) then I'll use them as references.

I'll be asking the guys on the bicycle forum to share their 2 star photos with genuine paint schemes from the same era, so I hope to get some ideas from there as well.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Have you found all the parts and gaskets to put the engine back together yet?

 

[Guest]

I know where I can get the crankshaft bearings so far... haven't gone any further than that yet.

I'm thinking of re-winding the ignition coil myself but other than that I think it'll just be an oil seal on the crankshaft I need to source. I'm led to believe a modern replacement is available...

Gaskets are apparently still available...

 

[Guest]

Ok, just realised I haven't put anything in here for a loooooong time...

So I've been stuck removing the cotter pin from the drive side of the pedal crank. It appeared to be bonded or fused from what I could tell and no amount of hammering would get it out. I also tried a trick I found on Youtube with a vice and clamps but no go. I restored to drilling it out and luckily didn't damage anything.

It won't be doing any pinning again...

And that finally let me get the mock up done on the '60's Malvern Star with mudguards and the 28" wheels and proper 28" forks.

Notice the new location for the fuel tank. It seems this is a popular location for it... not 100% decided but it might be better back there.

There's also still something not quite right with that front mudguard, so I may need to shorten the two mounting wires that go around the front axle to pull it forward another half inch. It clears the head now but won't clear the exhaust.

So now I know the forks are good etc. I can start dismantling wheels to clean up and get organised for the drums.

 

[Guest]

I got a PM from another forum asking how the counter shaft sprocket/idler gear goes together. He has also inherited a Cucciolo but unfortunately that part is in pieces and he has no idea how it goes together, so I'll post the process in here too as while it's a basic mechanism, I'm always fascinated by how the designers came up with these in the first place. They're obviously a little more switched on than I...

Anyway, all the bits look like this:

It sits on the output shaft from the gearbox which exits the right side of the crankcase:

Inverting the sprocket shows a recess in the back, and that's where the two collets need to locate once the sprocket's on the shaft:

Look close and you can see a groove around the shaft just below the threads:

This is where those same collets sit:

Then the sprocket goes on, and make sure the collets slip under the recess in the back of the sprocket so it sits flush, but I managed to completely skip getting a pic of this step, but you will see it shortly.

Next, take the circular strip of metal that will act as a spring and slip it over the centre part of the mechanism where it sits in the groove. Sorry for my lack of technical terms here, no idea what it's called exactly (and sorry for the blur):

This then slides onto the output shaft of the gearbox on top of the sprocket, oriented so that the flat part of the "teeth" face forward:

Next, the sprocket that engages with the right pedal crank slides over the inner part:

And the rollers are then installed into the slots between the teeth on the outside of the spring. I simply used a flat bladed screwdriver to hold the spring in while installing the rollers:

And, finally, the locking cover screws into the thread which is inside the end of the gearbox output shaft. It's a left hand thread so it doesn't undo while the shaft is spinning:

That's it!

I will shortly have a little video of how it works which I will post up...

 

[Guest]

And here is the little video, probably more a novelty more than anything but I find it interesting...

http://youtu.be/b4t7H2CjPwo

 

[Guest]

pete, love this project. love the way the tank looks in the back, like it is supposed to be there. that sprocket is chuffed? good to see some progress, keep us updated!

greg

 

[Guest]

Cheers Greg! Yeah I think that's the spot for the tank, looks a little better than on the front tube for sure and it will be much easier to get a stable mount there also.

That sprocket has definitely seen better days, so hopefully I can buy a new one otherwise I'm probably going to have to get someone to engineer me a new one using the splines from that one. Those splines are in very good shape, it's just the teeth that are dead.

There's not a lot I can do on the motor at the moment unfortunately, but I can keep tearing down the bicycle wheels to work out spoke lengths etc. No spare $$$ floating around this time of year...

 

[Guest]

Ok, first day of holidays today and I still haven't got my 450 back, so time to do something with the wheels.

I took some photos to make sure I could re-lace the spokes the same way.

Remember my plan now is for two bicycles out of the bits I have, one for the Ducati, and one I can actually ride to get some exercise... so both sets of wheels are getting attention; both the 28 x 1 1/2 and 28 x 1 3/8.

I decided to start on the 28 x 1 3/8 as they're the least critical.

I realised though that to get the wheels dismantled, I should pull the sprocket off. So using an eBook I was recommended to buy by Roger Musson (www.wheelpro.co.uk) I made what's called a chain whip to get the sprockets off:

While it should work as intended and appears to be good, I couldn't get the sprockets to budge on either rear wheel, so I simply persevered.

I have some spoke tools on the way which I was going to use to undo the nipples, but closer inspection showed me the spokes are not worth saving, so cutting was the quick way.

I did at least manage to partly dismantle the Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub that's currently on the 28 x 1 1/2 rear wheel so I could get to the spokes better, and I hope to be able to recondition this for use on the bicycle I can ride. I have the drums front and rear for the 28 x 1 1/2 wheels.

More lacing shots of the 28 x 1 1/2 wheels for future reference:

Then I grabbed the dremel, stuck a cut off wheel in it, and went to work. I was careful to hold the spokes as I cut them so the tension didn't cause anything to fly in my face.

(You can see the tips of my safety boots in the bottom of the pic...)

And then the same for the 28 x 1 3/8 wheels:

Cont...

 

[Guest]

These ones had some sort of material tube protector around the rims, and unfortunately it served to hold moisture in and cause a lot of rust in there. I hope it's not too bad, and the front is much worse than the rear:

I ducked up the road a little earlier and got a bottle of rust converter, so hopefully I can arrest the progress now when I get some more time and prevent it getting any worse.

At this stage I'll be painting the 28 1 1/2 rims I think but I'll probaby get the 28 x 1 3/8 rims re-chromed as I suspect I'll use a front cantilever brake which will of course rub the paint off the outside of the rim.

 

[oldrookie]

Have to admit--my first reaction was, "What did you ever do to your Dad to deserve this?" but it is turning into a very cool project.

 

[Guest]

Hahahaha thanks mate! I must admit there was a minute there when I thought the same... that was after he mentioned a Ducati single... but neglected to say it was a 48cc motor to be strapped to a bicycle frame

Now I'm really keen to get it done!