Fork Seals. OEM verses aftermarket kits.

[Redman]

#5 is now 51153-27c20 , which seem to also include #6 sine that has the same part number now.

But that is not my question.

 

[Redman]

Over the years I have gotten after market fork seals, say, MotionPro or what ever DennisKirk carried at the time.

Sometimes they would last 2 or 3 season,
or in more recent years would be leaking before the 2nd season and slobbering pretty good by the end of that season.

Not any rust on the tubes.

So I though maybe I was damaging the seals on installation, so last time I spent the money (garsch) to get the driver tool (41mm for GK), with no better results. Getting wet by end of 1st season, and now slobbering early in 2nd season.

Okay
Okay
I will follow the experienced, wise, knowledgeable advise of the learned folks here, and get OEM this this time.

So my question #1 is:
I see one part number for the seal (#5), and the revised part number seems to include that retainer spring thing. But I am not asking about the spring retainer clip thing.

But how does this OEM seal (#5) compare to my memory of there being a ring/washer and then a seal and then another ring/washer and then that retainer spring thing......?
Are the aftermarket ones that much different than the OEM,. the OEM just one part....? and I dont use the ring/washer(s)...?


And maybe I need to also ask Question #2:
Should I be putting the seal over the top of the tube (without the cap obviously).....
or
... should I be putting the bottom of the tube thru the seal.... ?
.

 

[sharpy]

Maybe the OEM seal is taller. Can you measure the distance where the seal bottom out on and the retainer ring groove on the fork leg? Then see if it matches the seal height. i had to go back to the 850 parts fiche to see the ring you are talking about... https://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d4014ef8700230d8b4e47e/front-fork And where are ure OEM seals. in that pic all i see are "leak proof" seals.

 

[dorkburger]

I used OEM on my 1150. I unknowingly installed one upside down and it leaked after one or two rides.
No mention was made of orientation in the factory or Haynes manual. Only after I studied the shape of the seal did I notice an orientation.
After I flipped it things have been fine. You do a lot more miles a year then I do however.

 

[bwringer]

OEM fork seals, without question, last the longest. Well worth the very minor added expense.


"Leak Proof" brand seals never last long, but they actually can seal better than others for a while if you have somewhat janky forks. And they're soft and easy to change. I'd reserve Leak Proof brand for corrosion-challenged ratbikes.


Also, I think you're just seeing a glitch in the fiche matrix you're looking at. I'm seeing different part numbers for the seal and the wire retaining clip at my usual source:

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d4049bf8700230d8b4ede0/front-fork-gs1100gk2-gkd

5..OIL SEAL
51153-27C20 (the original number is 51153-49440; one digit different than the clip)
2
$9.26

6..RING, OIL SEAL STOPPER
51156-49440
2
$3.28


And you install the seal from the top. You'll damage it if you try to go from the bottom and work it past the teflon sliders and such at the bottom.

If you're worried about roughness on the forks, grab a plastic grocery bag from the ample supply found in every kitchen, slide it over the fork, and apply some fork oil to the whole mess; it'll be slipperier-n-snot and will protect your seals from any nasties on the forks.

 

[Redman]

................. i had to go back to the 850 parts fiche to see the ring you are talking about................................................................. in that pic all i see are "leak proof" seals.

Hum yah, the 850 fisch does show a ring in addition to the seal.

My photo is from a past occassion of seal replacement. Have yet to start this occassion.

 

[Redman]

................. Only after I studied the shape of the seal did I notice an orientation.
........................

I will continue to look for orientation. Can see which direction the seal goes based on the instructions.

 

[Redman]

Brain, THanks for sharing your experience and thanks for the advise.

.
.
.
Also, I think you're just seeing a glitch in the fiche matrix you're looking at. I'm seeing different part numbers for the seal and the wire retaining clip at my usual source:.
.
.

Yah, I used microfische page for GKZ (early 82) and that had same number and price for the seal and for the retainer clip.
I then looked at the page for the GK2 (late 82, more like an 83) (that you referenced) and that listed separate numbers.


So, unless I am missing something, the OEM seal for 1100GK, doesnt need any other washers-rings, just that retainer clip.

All the washer-rings must have come with the aftermarket kits.

 

[Redman]

A pic of some old seals I have hanging around with noted orientation. .
.
.

Thanks Glen.

Let me repeat, just to verify that I understand.
Well, not really "repeat", but say it somewhat differently ...... just to verify.

The one labeled "Faces Up", shows which side should face up. So, essentially, should be installed that way.
And the one labeled "Faces Down", shows which side should be faced down, so, should be installed opposite of that way.
Correct....?

So the driver tool will be pushing on the two thinner parts, not on the flat side . . . . .

 

[bwringer]

There's no added ring with OEM seals on the GK. Just the seal and the wire clip.

I notice a Leak Proof seals box; there is an aluminum spacer ring provided with Leak Proof brand seals. So toss that ring and install fresh OEM seals and you should be done with this job for the next 10-20 years or so.

 

[bwringer]

Thanks Glen.

Let me repeat, just to verify that I understand.
Well, not really "repeat", but say it somewhat differently ...... just to verify.

The one labeled "Faces Up", shows which side should face up. So, essentially, should be installed that way.
And the one labeled "Faces Down", shows which side should be faced down, so, should be installed opposite of that way.
Correct....?

So the driver tool will be pushing on the two thinner parts, not on the flat side . . . . .

Correct.
On mine there was also a metal washer on top of the seal between the snap ring and seal. Different bike though.

I may be misunderstanding this exchange, but this is 110% wrong.

The "open" side of the seal goes down, towards the oil; the "faces down" pic on the right is what a correctly installed seal looks like.

The driver tool will be pushing on the flat side.

I just checked four different manuals to make sure I'm not crazy.


If your seals leaked when right-side up, there was some other problem.

As Dave noted, driving seals in by striking the open side is a great way to damage the seals.

And the "lip" on the seal is meant to be on the outside; it acts as a dust and dirt scraper to keep contaminants out of the sealing surfaces inside.

 

[dorkburger]

Hmmm.
I defer to you as as you as you are far more experienced then me.
Thank you for the correction.

My 1150 does have a washer on top of the seal from the factory, but other then that I'm now confused. I think I still have a set of fork bottoms with one original seals in them. I want to check to satisfy my own mind.
I'm going to delete my post / picrure so as not to cause anymore confusion.

 

[LAB3]

In my case the bottom of the fork tube has a taper and no grooves at all so I put it back together by running the tube down into the fork leg from the top. As to the seal, the bottom was "open" and the new one (All Balls) was placed in the same position, used the old seal as a drift with a piece of wood over the top to even out the pressure as I tapped it into place.

 

[dorkburger]

Dave, can you please check in to let us know that you saw Brian's info. I don't want to steer you wrong.
I'll send you a message if i dont hear back here.

 

[Redman]

Dave, can you please check in .................

Yep. Yep, am studying this. (Ordered a set of OEM seals yesterday afternoon.)

Thanks for your concern.

 

[dorkburger]

Great, thanks...

 

[dorkburger]

Well, I looked at my crusty old parts bike forks that I believe to be original and found the seals as I described. Maybe another 1150 anomaly... who knows. I?m just go to pretend all is fine in 1150 land.... :-\\\

 

[RichDesmond]

One other thing on fork seals. One of the big reasons they leak is the tiny nicks and dings that accumulate on the leading edge of the fork tubes, from rocks and other crap kicked up by cars in front of you. Those nicks have sharp edges, and they cut up the sealing surface of the fork seals. If you put new seals in and don’t take care of the nicks, your new seals won’t last very long.
Take some extra fine steel wool and lightly buff out the tubes. You don’t need to make the nicks disappear, just smooth out the edges. DON’T buff so hard that you go through the chrome!!
If you do this periodically your seals will last a lot longer.

 

[gustovh]

Another reason for failing seals is.....your lowers might just be shot inside, it has happened to me. Seal would start leaking in less than a thousand miles.

V

 

[fastbysuzuki]

You should not go wrong with the Oem seals I have gone away from them as I found seals that are a lot better quality than the Oem things have moved on since the 80 s the link is for the seals they have a double sealing lip these are in the uk

https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p...ng-Band-on-Outside-Diameter/product_info.html