getting a stuck shim out

[Buffalo Bill]

I have never had a shim that was "stuck" enough to warrant all THAT effort. :-k

And we have it MUCH easier with our shafties, I can't imagine suggesting that to someone with a 550 or 650.

.

Well, I also got the hang of pulling the carbs off my 550, but that was a long learning curve.
The problem with my 1100G yesterday was: I bought shims from Z1, and they don't have the rounded edges the OEM shims have, so they're kinda hard to seat and also hard to remove.
Plus I had the ebay version shim tool, manufactured rather sloppy. Plus on the inner exhaust valves the handle was restricted by the frame. Had to take it to the next level.
I got 2 outer intake shims changed using the tool, but it wasn't gonna work for the inner exhaust valves.
Just did a 14 mile test ride in 32? weather, worked great considering the cold.

 

[chuck hahn]

Is the bucket depressed enough for adequate clearance? If the zip tie method is used, is said zip tie thick enough to hold the valves open substantially?

 

[timebombprod]

The Hemostat! Best damn roach clip ever made.

lmaoo thats not tweezers thats a roach clip

 

[LAB3]

The problem with my 1100G yesterday was: I bought shims from Z1, and they don't have the rounded edges the OEM shims have, so they're kinda hard to seat and also hard to remove.
.

It was 85? and sunny here yesterday, I measured and ordered shims from Z1 a couple of weeks back and got down to swapping them out. Ran into the same issue, the lack of bevel and really tight clearances around the edges made getting them in square a real PITA.

The local auto parts chain store not only doesn't have B8ES in stock but they have to make a special order to get them! Heading out for a 25 mile trip to get some in a bit, then a carb sync.

 

[Steve]

The local auto parts chain store not only doesn't have B8ES in stock but they have to make a special order to get them! Heading out for a 25 mile trip to get some in a bit, then a carb sync.

If you have to order them, check them before you leave the store. :-k

I have found two variations at the local Auto Zone. They are both B8ES, but have different sub-numbers. One has a screw-off tip, the other does not. If you have stock wires and caps, you need the one with the screw-off tip.

.

 

[LAB3]

If you have to order them, check them before you leave the store. :-k

I have found two variations at the local Auto Zone. They are both B8ES, but have different sub-numbers. One has a screw-off tip, the other does not. If you have stock wires and caps, you need the one with the screw-off tip.

.

Looks like I've been making a mistake and you're a good person to ask. B8ES has been superceded by BR8ES. From my auto parts store experience in the 70's I've been assuming that the R means resistor and passing up those based on that assumption. Sure enough, the store had the BR8ES which as no biggie, it got me out if the house.

Came back here and started digging. Some sources say the R means removable tip (unscrew cap for stud) while others definitely label them as resistor. Since my caps are already 5k I didn't think it was a good idea to add more.

The Champions in there now are definitely NOT resistor and nobody seems to have them, those where bought last year. Most B8ES on eBay are actually BR8ES with a few showing a picture marked B8ES, they're asking a good penny for those.

 

[LAB3]

Forgot to add. The store here in town cannot order them directly and have to make a call somewhere and I'd have to buy a minimum of eight. If they're no longer being made and going for $5 each on eBay I just might buy a few boxes and sell them there. Having a need to ship them gives me a legit reason to be on the road, we're on lockdown ad of 5pm.

 

[Grimly]

BR8ES are most definitely resistor plugs. NGK should know, they label them.
They haven't superceded B8ES in any way - B8ES is still current production.
You won't cause any harm to your ignitor or anything else if you have to fit resistor plugs if that's all you can get - the engine will still run fine.

 

[LAB3]

BR8ES are most definitely resistor plugs. NGK should know, they label them.
They haven't superceded B8ES in any way - B8ES is still current production.
You won't cause any harm to your ignitor or anything else if you have to fit resistor plugs if that's all you can get - the engine will still run fine.

You can do a search on the NGK website (North America) for technical specs, at the end of the B8ES sheet it says "While supplies last" Yes, I've seen the word superceded used a few times. I'm not concerned with damage or anything like that, this is more an ecxcersize in curiosity than anything else. And of course writing conspiracy stories about illegal importation like I did last weekend, just for fun

 

[Grimly]

You can do a search on the NGK website (North America) for technical specs, at the end of the B8ES sheet it says "While supplies last" Yes, I've seen the word superceded used a few times. I'm not concerned with damage or anything like that, this is more an ecxcersize in curiosity than anything else. And of course writing conspiracy stories about illegal importation like I did last weekend, just for fun

Must be a recent thing, and perhaps they're withdrawing them from the N.American market first. Odd, because the B8ES is one of the world's most common plugs. In my opinion they're in error as describing the B8ES as being superceded by the BR8ES, because they're different.
In my own case I'm running non-resistor lead and caps along with BR8ES, but if I wasn't doing that, I'd want standard B8ES instead. I won't be happy if I can't get standard plugs when I need them.

 

[Cipher]

I know at least one of my aftermarket manuals has the magnet warning, but as Steve said it's not in the FSM.

If you're grabbing from the edge using a reasonable magnet, it's hard to see how it could do any harm. If you're using some sort of super-magnet in the middle where the cam lobe slides across, I suppose that could cause issues. But as Steve said, if you have that many ferrous shavings that make it past the drain plug magnet and through the screens and filter up to the cylinder head, a few shavings sticking to the shim is probably the very least of your troubles.

I generally just use a big pair of tweezers.

Don't bother cleaning the oil out -- you need that film of oil and its surface tension when you install the replacement shim.


Also, reading between the lines of a few recent posts, one step I think a lot of folks are missing is to turn the crank a few times before re-checking the clearances to squish out the excess oil and make sure the shims have been fully seated into the buckets. I generally go for at least two cycles, so at least four revolutions of the crank.

An item can only be magnetized by passing it through a magnetic field. AN item being picked up by a magnet will suffer very little impact.

Try this with a screwdriver tip. Touch it once with a magnet and note how it does not become perceptibly magnetized.

Then pass it through the same magnets field a few dozen times and note the difference.

Data tape degausser we had in the server farm worked on same principle. You laid the tapes on a tray that moved them around through the fields coming from beneath.

 

[Gorminrider]

Yes, i remember that you rub a magnet over a surface to magnetize it....reorients the atoms?

You can magnetize in a dc field and demagnetize with an ac field...I actually have an old cassette tape head demagnetizer that works on screwdrivers that annoy me.

 

[Steve]

Some sources say the R means removable tip (unscrew cap for stud) while others definitely label them as resistor. Since my caps are already 5k I didn't think it was a good idea to add more.

Even when I walk into Auzo Zone and ask for NGK B8ES plugs, they have to look up a part number.

Then they walk back to their stock shelf and come back with boxes of B8ES plugs and tell me that it's part number 2411. I just did a quick search for "NGK 2411" and got hits from Auto Zone, O'Reilleys, Advance Auto Parts and even Wal-Mart. If you have the luxury of ordering online, they are also available at Summit Racing.

My suggestion would be to just ask for NGK 2411 plugs.

.

 

[LAB3]

Even when I walk into Auzo Zone and ask for NGK B8ES plugs, they have to look up a part number.

Then they walk back to their stock shelf and come back with boxes of B8ES plugs and tell me that it's part number 2411. I just did a quick search for "NGK 2411" and got hits from Auto Zone, O'Reilleys, Advance Auto Parts and even Wal-Mart. If you have the luxury of ordering online, they are also available at Summit Racing.

My suggestion would be to just ask for NGK 2411 plugs.

.

Yep, that's the one 2411. There's three auto parts stores here in Branson, all of them O'Reilly. As mentioned, they cannot pull it up on their terminal and order it, takes a call to someone Monday-Friday during working hours and you need to order at least eight of them. The trip to the next town was Auto Zone, wasn't going to make an order there due to distance and opted for an online source. Did find them for $2 each this morning on line, they're on the way.

 

[LAB3]

In my own case I'm running non-resistor lead and caps along with BR8ES, but if I wasn't doing that, I'd want standard B8ES instead. I won't be happy if I can't get standard plugs when I need them.

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Not sure how long resistor caps last, mine where swapped out from factory original two years/20k miles ago. Makes senses to swap them, I'll probably do that next time.