My Gs850 project bike

[Guest]

Connector that doesn?t look very good. Looks like wires are missing

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you sign up to an online photo sharing site like imgur to host photos, you can link up to 10 pics in one post. Just copy the BBCode from the image and paste it in your post. You can post pictures in various sizes, and they show up in the post without having to click to enlarge them.

 

[Steve]

All those look rather "normal".

For the breather vent hose, OEM is best, as it's thin-wall and nicely flexible. It's 11mm (inside diameter), which is pretty close to 7/16". If you go to the auto parts store to get some, it will be thick-walled and reinforced heater hose, which is really hard to install. If you purchase OEM hose, it looks rather expensive, until you realize that you get about six feet of it in the package. Unless you have multiple bikes or have a shop and work on others, you're going to have about five feet of hose left over.

If you PM your address to me, I will send you a piece of OEM hose.

.

 

[cowboyup3371]

The tube style fuses can break under the cap where you can't see them. I would test each out with at least a test light but definitely keep a few on hand. Some of us have replaced them with the more readily available blade style fuse blocks and fuses. Several options are out there one of which is made by Eastern Beaver.

 

[Guest]

I've been looking at BikeCliff's website, on his article how he uses Evaporust to get rust out of his tank.

I noticed that he removed the fuel gauge sending unit/gas gap and covers the holes with pipe plugs from a hardware store, is this because the evaporust will ruin the units gasket? should I just leave the sending unit/gas cap on the tank and replace the gasket after or should I buy the pipe plugs and do it that way?

 

[Guest]

Connector cracked in half when trying to clean it.

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

Three of the wires go up to the right handlebar

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

Bottom wire in the picture below

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

Other half of male connector (2 wires)
Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

 

[Guest]

Glad I kept these, I was told that they did not fit.

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

This fuse side cover doesn't mount up correctly, but with some zip ties it fits snug. (if you have the model it goes to and need one, I'll trade for the proper one for my bike)



Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

 

[Guest]

Any idea on where I can find some connections that will work? I tried bikebandit.com and they had to cancel that part from my order because they weren?t able to get it. 2wheelpros.com is out of stock also.

for $33, buy it now. For the connections, I think Triumph still has the best deal and you don't have to put the wires into the terminals, it's already done. just cut the plugs off the ends you don't need, keep the wires and plugs that go into the SH775. Something like this. http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts...MI7cD_xNGj5QIVz4CfCh29VAxdEAkYASABEgIaGPD_BwE

 

[Grimly]

Any idea on where I can find some connections that will work? I tried bikebandit.com and they had to cancel that part from my order because they weren’t able to get it. 2wheelpros.com is out of stock also.

Ten second google on the part number, and keep your fingers crossed it's in stock.
https://triumphparts.englemotors.co...lator-456777-gt-468703/43491948/T2500676.html

 

[alke46]

vintageconnections.com for all your electrical connections I believe.

 

[alke46]

Also subscribed to this thread.

 

[Guest]

Fixed the melted connector with a replacement from vintageconnectors.com, I also bought their terminal extraction tool. the rest of the carb/tank and electrical parts will be coming in this week.
Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

 

[2BRacing]

Fixed the melted connector with a replacement from vintageconnectors.com, I also bought their terminal extraction tool. the rest of the carb/tank and electrical parts will be coming in this week.
Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

Just a heads-up here: the terminals of the lower connector plug in your photo do not seem to be seated deeply enough inside the connector yet. The metal crimp around the insulation of the wires should not be sticking out of the plastic connector.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for noticing. I was able to seat them a little deeper. Likely in the near future Ill be getting the terminal crimp tool and just replace them, because this particular connection some terminals were a little damaged and not seating easily for me.

Just a heads-up here: the terminals of the lower connector plug in your photo do not seem to be seated deeply enough inside the connector yet. The metal crimp around the insulation of the wires should not be sticking out of the plastic connector.

 

[Guest]

Just about ready to have my friend help me solder this and get it installed. Any tips or link to a page that might be useful?

Untitled by David Torres, on Flickr

 

[Steve]

It's not all that hard to install. Two screws on the left side of the battery box hold the solenoid/fusebox plate to the battery box. Remove those, the plate will lift off the battery box. Remove the turn signal flasher and controller from the right side of the battery box. A few more bolts will release the battery box from the frame, disconnect the R/R leads and lift the battery box out. Remove the R/R from the bottom of the battery box, install the SHJ775 in its place. Face the connectors to the left side. Re-install, re-connect, ride.

.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use now.

 

[Guest]

Thanks for clearing the brown/ black wires for me, I was confused about them.

Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use now.

 

[Big T]

Vintage Connections will have those connectors, plus the tool to swap out the wires

 

[Guest]

Just to make clear you?re talking about the white connector I had that melted? You?re not talking about the sh755 wires, because from what I?m getting 1. Solder the three wires going to Stator 2. Crimp eyelet terminal to black wire(ground) for single point ground 3. Crimp bullet connector on brown wire(power) and connect to red wire in wiring harness.

Vintage Connections will have those connectors, plus the tool to swap out the wires