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New GS1100 G Restoration Project. Rebuilding my Dad's bike

Curing Paint at 200F not 200C

Curing Paint at 200F not 200C

Just checked your blog and you mention that you cured them at 200C, should have been 200F, that's why you blistered the paint off I suspect, too much heat.
Also looks like you have an issue with the surface on the inside of the caliper, try sanding with a scotch brite pad to clean up the surface first. Another option would be to try a primer to seal the area before applying the finish coats. VHT makes a primer that is compatable with their high temp paints.
 
Kiwi Canuck - You are absolutely correct. I am in UK but buying US paint (VHT) so over cooking is definitely not helping. I had turned my oven up to 200 deg C in error. I am some what surprised though as it says on the tin that it will withstand heat up to 482 deg C (not sure what happens at 483 deg C ??).

In any case since it has bubbled in only one area I am more of a mind that some contamination (oil deeply seated in the pores of the metal) or oxidation not properly removed is more likely the culprit.

I think I am going to strip them another time and get them vapour blasted, then ultrasonic, then paint prep spirit, then lighter coats and then let it dry for 7 days before heating in the oven to 200 deg F. My what a palava. I will be expert pretty soon!

Greetings
 
the paint will only survive the super high temperatures after it has been cured properly, not during curing. if they have ingressed oil in the pores, vapour blasting or U/S dipping will not remove it.
i would just strip the paint, wash them in acetone, then paint them as you intend, thinner coats and allow to air dry before curing
 
Charlie - you are right. I am spraying too close and at one point a couple of drips came off the caliper. That's a sure sign there it too much paint on it. Really tricky (me being new to rattle can painting) to get the right amount without overdoing. I will have to practice some more!

Greetings
 
From my non-professional experience with painting, prep is everything. Before you spray anthing you need to make sure that you hit it with a tack cloth to remove dirt, and then wash it in solvent to remove all oils. Like someone said at least wash in acetone, MEK, or better yet get a can of Prep-Sol. Then put down a layer of primer, there is a reason why they make the stuff. Then spray multiple thin coats, read the lable as different paints require different times between coats. If you don't follow that advice then the layers will not "melt" into each other properly, and you can get peeling. Good luck!
 
Kiwi Canuck - You are absolutely correct. I am in UK but buying US paint (VHT) so over cooking is definitely not helping. I had turned my oven up to 200 deg C in error. I am some what surprised though as it says on the tin that it will withstand heat up to 482 deg C (not sure what happens at 483 deg C ??).

In any case since it has bubbled in only one area I am more of a mind that some contamination (oil deeply seated in the pores of the metal) or oxidation not properly removed is more likely the culprit.

I think I am going to strip them another time and get them vapour blasted, then ultrasonic, then paint prep spirit, then lighter coats and then let it dry for 7 days before heating in the oven to 200 deg F. My what a palava. I will be expert pretty soon!

Greetings

I recall having trouble with a battery box on a GS1150 I did last Winter. I'd sanded and cleaned it thoroughly and one area always reacted like I was painting over oil, I had cleaned it to bare metal 2 times. At that time I just gave it 2 light coats and a fine sand and then a final coat, still was not quite right but I just did not want to mess with it anymore as I was selling the bike. Still a mystery as to what was going on with that.

I just re-read the instructions on the VHT paint and it says that it's a self priming paint so does not require primer?, but I'm sure it would've helped in my case.
Follow the directions on re-coating as it's important to get all the coats on in a short period of time, if you wait too long then you need to wait 7 days for more coats.

Good luck.
 
Day 327 - Frame Come Back from Powder Coating

Day 327 - Frame Come Back from Powder Coating

I am getting close to a year into this project and today it takes a massive leap forward. The frame is returned to me. I now am in love all over again.

See: My GS1100G Blog - Frame Powder Coated (hi-res pics)

This is what went away:

P1070484.jpg


And this is what I got back:

P1070763-001a.JPG


P1070785-001.JPG


P1070789.JPG


P1070790-001.JPG


I chose a satin finish which I really like (you are never 100% sure of what you are getting until it is done!) and it has not been applied too thickly so it doesn't look like it has been shrouded in 2mm sheet plastic. I had 22 other bits done at the same time which will be displayed in a later post.

I just love this project.
 
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Looking good Richard - it always feels like a big step forward when the PC comes back. Is that masking tape on the rear shock mounts by the way or did they PC them? If it's the latter you'll have to get it off or the bushes won't fit and the nuts won't thread. When it's off give it a dab with paint to stop the demon rust getting in.

Also check your swinging arm holes etc never got coated.

Keep the bubble wrap for when you put the engine back in - you remember how much fun it was getting out! There's some tricks for when it needs to go back to avoid damaging the PC.
 
Also make sure you scrape off a bit of the powder coating on the rear bottom mount brackets of the frame BEFORE you put the engine in. Not doing so might lead to semi-disastrous events especially if you get a BFH to try to "coax" it in place:



and repaired

 
Looks great. I felt like putting my frame in the living room after I got it back from PC.
 
Well, it took me almost an entire evening and a little this morning to catch up on this, but it was extremely entertaining and helpful so far. Looking forward to what's next.
 
Hamshire - yes indeed. I was just trying to get the top yoke bearing shell in and there is quite a lot of paint about. I scraped it out (Scotchbrite) but it still went in crooked and is now stuck. Guess I need a bigger hammer.

Greetings
 
Hamshire - yes indeed. I was just trying to get the top yoke bearing shell in and there is quite a lot of paint about. I scraped it out (Scotchbrite) but it still went in crooked and is now stuck. Guess I need a bigger hammer.

Greetings

Bring it round and lets have a look.
 
Day 338 - Project Update and New Bike Purchase

Day 338 - Project Update and New Bike Purchase

Nearly done the year since I started this rebuild so here's a little progress report:

I am, still in my mind, no where near the half way stage. Given my rate of progress (determined by the availability of time AND money) and what I have achieved so far, I estimate completion now is likely to be for summer 2015 (I originally thought summer 2014).

At this point I have the frame (and 22 other pieces) powder coated and ready to go. One fork lower tube refurbished and lacquered. Most of my replacement parts in stock. Carburetors completely refurbished (vapour blasted and cleaned) and awaiting assembly with cadmium plated parts. Forks stanchions have been re-chromed. Not much else really. I have done some work on the wheels but that's it.

So the "to do" list is for ever: engine clean, paint and top end overhaul (not decided on that at the moment), wiring harness refurbishment and then re-assembly of the whole thing. Oh I also need to get the paintwork done on the tank, tail, side panels and front mudguard.

So in order to relieve the frustration of being a born-again biker and not having a bike on the road, I went a hunting for a bike I could use this summer to get me back into the swing of things. I have not ridden my own bike on the road for at least 15 years.

I came across this guy: GS1100G For Sale

New+GS1100.jpg.jpg


I will be picking it up in the next few weeks and hope to get it on the road by the end of August. I will ride it and mix and match the parts with my bike (although this "new" one is a 1982 model and mine is a 1983). I am hoping the seat pan is in good nick and that the exhaust (not pretty on this bike) is serviceable. I will post more pics of it when I get it home.

Greetings
 
I don't know for certian that your "new" bike is priced right or not, but I would have expected it to cost much more than you paid for it. Congratulations!

cg
 
"sold as seen", only runs on 3 cylinders but just needs carbs cleaning.......

hmmmmm where have i heard that before!
 
Agemax - hhhmmm. Tell me more. Actually, if it's really bad news I'm not sure I want to know now the deal is done. If it really is a bummer, I can re-list it in few weeks. I would not expect to lose much on it.

Oh go on tell me the bad news.

Greetings
 
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