New paint job on my old bike

[sachsaca]

These are a few pics of the paint I started on my tank for a GS 1000 L 1979.
It is supposed to be Black metaflake but it appears Charcoal Gray. My wife says it looks black to her I think the light in the house and with the camera makes it look gray. It's a start, the first coat tuned out looking like milk, didn't let the tank acclimate to the enviroment and it absorbed water after it was sprayed, aaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh. Had to resand it and paint again. Got about 4 or 5 more coats to go and she'll be ready. Using rattle can duplicolor black metaflake, was gonna paint it two colors but it looks too good with this one color. Got new badges ordered and gonna get new side plate badges also. I'm close very close, carbs to clean, replace chain and new tires along with Daytona bars and I'm cruizin...

 

[Mike Ski]

Looks nice!!! paint looks like you laid it down real flat. Keep up the good work and keep us posted with pics.

 

[sachsaca]

It did lay down pretty flat for rattle can. I gotta lay down a few more coats and then I'll smooth it out with 2000 and polish it up, it's laquer. Wanted something I could polish and wax.

 

[Mike Ski]

I can't wait to see the end result. It looks like a nice color. Once it has some shine it's gonna be sweet.

 

[almarconi]

How gasoline resistant is the paint?

 

[sachsaca]

Thats a good question about gas resistance, I asked a friend who has painted with laquer on gas tanks he said be careful and it should hold up just wipe clean once it gets wet. If I let it cure before I begin to use it, it should hold up well even if it gets wet with some gas. We'll see.
The more it dries and cyres the darker it gets, it's supposed to be black metaflake but I'm liking the charcoal coal.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I have done a couple rattle can jobs on tanks...cured with heat even.. used a "Hight temp, Petroleum resistant, clear engine coating" for the final clear coat... Soon as gas hits it, its ruined... doesnt curl like regular spray bomb paint on contact with gas, but it f**ks it up enough to make you mad.. You may consider finding someone to shoot AUTO grade clear over your spray bomb once it comes time...Yes, you CAN do that. And if your spray bomb looks good, the hard clear is all you need to keep it safe from gas...

 

[sachsaca]

Yea I'm considering it, my neighbor paints custom stuff and he usually has something going. I hear sherwin williams has a 2 part clear coat that would work. I really have done it just to see if I can, I kinda have a knack for things mechanical but have a fear of screwing stuff up so I try to be educated before I start. I want to start painting bikes, I enjoy the meticulous mind numbing crap of trying to make dents look perfect.

The corner your looking at had dents in it all down the side. I had to work it over about 8 times to get it right, looks ok I guess but I'm my own worst critic.

 

[almarconi]

You could probably use a preval sprayer to put a couple coats of auto clear on it after you are done.

 

[bgmart450]

I used that color too I think and yeah, it looks more charcoal than black.

 

[TheCafeKid]

You could probably use a preval sprayer to put a couple coats of auto clear on it after you are done.

What is a preval sprayer?? Is that the new stuff thats a two part paint in one spray bomb can?? Ive wanted to try that stuff, but Ive not seen anyone say yea or nay on it here...

 

[almarconi]

A preval is a brand of disposable sprayer which consists of a glass jar with a disposable aerosol unit. They are available at the home depot and most other home center or hardware stores. You can use them to spray most paints. Its like a custom made spray bomb. Here is there website

http://www.prevalspraygun.com/

Body shops use them for touch up work.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Hrmmmm Yanno, I have a decent compressor at my disposal, but the process of building a makeshift booth, cleaning the guns, all the prep work yadda yadda yadda is more or less whats kept me from trying my hand at two part paints and the like...This might be something to check out to get some practice in... thanks for the info Al

 

[almarconi]

This may also be an option for small jobs where a urethane clear is needed

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

The price is not bad either.

Here's another one which includes a spray can

http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-kk7-urethane-high-gloss-clear-kit-1007.cfm

 

[TheCafeKid]

This may also be an option for small jobs where a urethane clear is needed

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

The price is not bad either.

Here's another one which includes a spray can

http://www.colorrite.com/product/aerosol-kk7-urethane-high-gloss-clear-kit-1007.cfm

Man, I might have to order one of each of these and give them a try on a small project tank I have... When I do, I will post up my results and thoughts, this might be an excellent way to get a nice look from a cheap paint job. Ive gotten some REALLY nice results from rattle can, my cafe tank turned out really good, untill the first time i dribbled some gas on it, completely ruined Might be a good way to clean up peeling clear on some otherwise nice stock paint too?? I'll give it a shot. Thanks again for the research on this stuff Al :dancing:

 

[almarconi]

I'm painting the engine covers, forks and shock bodies with duplicolor brand engine paint. The clear they make is a one part enamel product and according to the can is rated to 500 degrees. So far, I'm happy with the results. The only negative is the long re-coat window with the enamel. I've been applying the base color and letting it dry for a week before wet sanding and clearcoat. I'll see how the paint holds up after I've put some miles on the bike. If I'm not satisfied I'm going to give the spray urethane a try.

I would rather use a two part urethane if there is a chance that gas can come in contact with the parts. The tank, side covers and fenders I had professionally done using an automotive base coat clear coat.

 

[TheCafeKid]

I'm painting the engine covers, forks and shock bodies with duplicolor brand engine paint. The clear they make is a one part enamel product and according to the can is rated to 500 degrees. So far, I'm happy with the results. The only negative is the long re-coat window with the enamel. I've been applying the base color and letting it dry for a week before wet sanding and clearcoat. I'll see how the paint holds up after I've put some miles on the bike. If I'm not satisfied I'm going to give the spray urethane a try.

I would rather use a two part urethane if there is a chance that gas can come in contact with the parts. The tank, side covers and fenders I had professionally done using an automotive base coat clear coat.

I'll tell ya what Al, I did my GS1100ES this spring with the Duplicolour stuff..Im pleased as punch with how its turned out and how its held up. Ive put maybe 7K or so on the ES this year (didnt get to ride as much as I was hoping, and split time between it and the other bikes, so still got some decent miles in this year ) Its held up great to oil and gas dribblings, and, believe it or not, I use simply McGwires Cleaner Polish (car polish) on it, and it shines GREAT!! I didnt even use a clear coating over it. I went with High Gloss, a bit shiny-er than the stock black motor paint for the year, but I like the "wet" look it gives it....I'll see if I can find a pic that shows the motor nicely...

 

[TheCafeKid]

here's one. doesnt get as close as I was hoping, but For some reason my phone isnt complying with sending the pics I have on it to my email, I have some good ones on there i took just a couple days after..

This pic is from just a couple months ago, at the WV Rally, So its had quite a few miles on it at this point. I did the entire motor, the fork lowers, wheels and carbs. You can see the reflection of the brake pedal in the clutch cover and the light gleaming off the contact breaker cover...I really like the Duplicolour stuff, and wouldnt hesitate to use it again. Its held up quite well. This winter Im doing a full frame up restore to the ES, so the non motor bits that are black will actually be getting powder coated most likely, and the motor will probably be getting the Duplicolour treatment again, as it will be getting the top end rebuilt. I did this with the motor still in the frame, so I didnt get every nook and cranny as I would have liked, but I will be able to with the rebuild...