Solid State Power Box II : Market Research Poll

[Guest]

The signal circuit with blinkers and brakes on can draw as much as 10 amps when the directional is on. IIRC figure on about 1/8th of that with LEDs. So now you are down to 1.2 amps peak.

10A is a crazy amount of current for a few small bulbs to be lit. Does your 1.2A figure include LED tail/brake light bulbs or just signals?

I updated the first post to reflect better how the screw terminals (bare or tinned wire ends) would be oriented/configured.

That clears it up, thanks.


Mark

 

[posplayr]

10A is a crazy amount of current for a few small bulbs to be lit. Does your 1.2A figure include LED tail/brake light bulbs or just signals?




That clears it up, thanks.


Mark

signal circuit means the O/g wire fused for 10 a from the fusebox. This plots are actual measurements of a stock set of tail light, Blake light, dash lights , and directionals. So figure the total current drops to 1/8 of what you see.

 

[scrapper]

should have put this question in. who would buy one if they had the extra money.

 

[Guest]

signal circuit means the O/g wire fused for 10 a from the fusebox. This plots are actual measurements of a stock set of tail light, Blake light, dash lights , and directionals. So figure the total current drops to 1/8 of what you see.

Sorry, I wasn't clear on my question. Is your 1.2A current draw with LED signals and incandescent bulbs everywhere else or do I need to also use LED tail/brake light bulbs as well to get the current draw that low?

And my stupid question for the night - the SSPB II still retains the ignition/headlight/accessory relay functions of the original? Nothing has changed there? That is how I read the OP, but I figured I would ask and be clear on that.


Mark

 

[posplayr]

Sorry, I wasn't clear on my question. Is your 1.2A current draw with LED signals and incandescent bulbs everywhere else or do I need to also use LED tail/brake light bulbs as well to get the current draw that low?

Mark

The 1.2A is 1/8 of 10 amps. The entire O/G circuit varies but the peak of 10amps can be brought down to 1.2A (i.e. 1/8) if you replace the blinkers, tail light and brake light and the dash lights.

O/G does not include the headlamp; that is on the O/R.

And my stupid question for the night - the SSPB II still retains the ignition/headlight/accessory relay functions of the original? Nothing has changed there? That is how I read the OP, but I figured I would ask and be clear on that.


Mark

Yes electrically each channel is identical either SSBP or SSPB II or SSAB. The Ignition circuit is a little different but the same on both SSPA and SSPB II.
The SSPB II gets rid of the switched Aux so you only have the Unswitched Aux as the original fuse box has. The 5th channel on the SSPB was not something in the OEM designs.

As I mentioned I don't know of anybody that has used this switched AUX ; the most likely thing would be driving lights or heated gear. So it is extra cost complexity and expense that 90% of the people are not using.

 

[Guest]

The entire O/G circuit varies but the peak of 10amps can be brought down to 1.2A (i.e. 1/8) if you replace the blinkers, tail light and brake light and the dash lights.

That is the answer I was looking for.

Yes electrically each channel is identical either SSBP or SSPB II or SSAB.

OK, just wanted to confirm my understanding of that.


Thanks for your patience in answering the dopey questions.


Mark

 

[posplayr]

That is the answer I was looking for.





OK, just wanted to confirm my understanding of that.


Thanks for your patience in answering the dopey questions.


Mark

From what I have seen on my bike there is very little power draw other than the lights in the O/G Signal circuit. So you just count up the power for each bulb that is on and divide by 14V and you get the amount of total current. Any swap from incandescent to LED figure 1/8 of the current.

 

[Rob S.]

My two cents on marketing your product:

As far as "dumbing it down", I don't think you could get overly dumb if you're after a mass market. (That is, the dumber the better.)

I haven't yet talked to my mechanic about your product, but his philosophy is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." I mostly agree with that, but I have some money, and I like to buy things for my Suzi.

I think your product will provide a connection point for accessories such as heated clothing, grips, sound systems, extra lights, etc., but I don't know for sure. Maybe you could make that clearer to non-mechanics like myself. BTW, none of those accessories interests me, but a radar detector, that's right up my alley.

I think your product will keep the lights turned off until the engine is running, but I'm not sure. Again, maybe you could make that clearer. (That is something that would interest me.)

I think your product(s) have other benefits, but I don't understand them.

I realize this site overwhelmingly consists of technically proficient DIY'ers, so my marketing suggestions might best be applied to other, more mainstream media.

Best of luck.

 

[posplayr]

My two cents on marketing your product:

As far as "dumbing it down", I don't think you could get overly dumb if you're after a mass market. (That is, the dumber the better.)

I haven't yet talked to my mechanic about your product, but his philosophy is, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." I mostly agree with that, but I have some money, and I like to buy things for my Suzi.

I think your product will provide a connection point for accessories such as heated clothing, grips, sound systems, extra lights, etc., but I don't know for sure. Maybe you could make that clearer to non-mechanics like myself. BTW, none of those accessories interests me, but a radar detector, that's right up my alley.

I think your product will keep the lights turned off until the engine is running, but I'm not sure. Again, maybe you could make that clearer. (That is something that would interest me.)

I think your product(s) have other benefits, but I don't understand them.

I realize this site overwhelmingly consists of technically proficient DIY'ers, so my marketing suggestions might best be applied to other, more mainstream media.

Best of luck.

Rob,
Much of what you are describing is really an inherent issue with this type of an electrical product. You are just not going to sell it to anyone that doesn't understand how to install it and at l;east has a reasonable understanding of what it does. To a large extent if installation is beyond the scope of the person, then understanding the benefits will be as well.

In the simplest terms all three products are to safe distributed power. You can short out any of the wires and the device just protects itself. It is also optimized to reduce voltage drops and charging issues which are chronic problems with the vast majority of the older bikes.

There is a description of the original SSPB here.

The SSPB II is a slightly simpler and cheaper version of the SSPB but only eliminates the part of the original that few people are using. Both are designed to replace existing fuse box power distributions approaches from the OEM.

The SSAB is designed to enter and existing market for after market device power distributions. Because of the CAN bus on many more modern motorcycle, there has to be an separate power distribution/fuse box to avoid generating CAN bus warnings. The SSAB is about 2/3 the cost for essentially a very similar solid state product. In fact in any respects the SSPB/SSAB is easier to use and more user friendly (no software USB interface and no power resets required).


http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?220602-Solid-State-Power-Box-150-plus-shipping


Think of the SSPB II as a direct replacement for ypur existing fuse box. The difference is that you cant short it out and you won't ever have to change a fuse and you will always have more voltage delivered to your electrical components using the SSPB II.

The original SSPB has an extra 10 amp channel for switched accessories in addition to the unswitched channel (just like OEM).

If you need a lot more than that go to a SSJB in addition to the /SSPBSSPB II.

And yes the on board logic will use the stator voltage to determine if the engine is running and light the headlamps once idling (as many of the newer bikes do)

 

[Guest]

posplayr,

Has there been any progress on this? I have replaced the R/R on my 1100E with an SH775 and would like to compliment it with a SSPB II instead of soldiering on with a rattly old fuse box. I am fine with being a beta tester if it gets me set up sooner.


Mark

 

[Killdozer]

I want one, im in the process of rewiring my GS650 and my old stuff is junk. Sad i missed the original here.

 

[posplayr]

posplayr,

Has there been any progress on this? I have replaced the R/R on my 1100E with an SH775 and would like to compliment it with a SSPB II instead of soldiering on with a rattly old fuse box. I am fine with being a beta tester if it gets me set up sooner.


Mark

Mark,
At the moment you can see that the demand is very limited. Based on past experience I would be lucky to sell 3-4 in a first run. The incremental price drop did not really generate much increase in response. I guess it is a great idea if it was much cheaper, but then that is part of the (supply demand) paradox it is not cheaper because there is so little demand. I have another project at the moment, and if that goes ahead I might make a few of these SSPB II boards (as a piggy pack on the others) but that is a little "might".

If I order some more enclosures it might be easier for me to just build more of the originals. It really is going to be a matter of me having nothing else to do. Bottom line is , don't wait on me. Just make sure you clean all the connections and do the power and grounding mods.
Sorry,
Jim

 

[Guest]

If I order some more enclosures it might be easier for me to just build more of the originals. It really is going to be a matter of me having nothing else to do. Bottom line is , don't wait on me. Just make sure you clean all the connections and do the power and grounding mods.
Sorry,
Jim

Put me in line if you do make some more originals, I would really like to get rid of the OEM fusebox.


Mark

 

[JTGS850GL]

Don't limit you plans for GS series bikes. If you design for a wide range of clients you will get better results. I would recommend a more generic approach. I will still work for us and you'll get the additional benefit of a wider customer base.

 

[posplayr]

Don't limit you plans for GS series bikes. If you design for a wide range of clients you will get better results. I would recommend a more generic approach. I will still work for us and you'll get the additional benefit of a wider customer base.

Generic fusebox replacement is what the SSPB II is all about; cheaper, simpler, generic. The poll speaks for itself.

 

[Jamesp]

Posplayr
although I think both of these new products are great it seems u are a very busy fellow. And unless I've missed something most everyone that bought the original was very happy with the product. Since u already have that process and materials in a rhythm why not continue to make the original and just add the aux model for the guys with all the accessories? That way u get one extra circuit just like the fuse box ,not to mention all the other benefits ,and the guys with the accessories can buy the extra box. From what I've witnessed there are several of us already in line for the next run of the original and as folks continue to work on these bikes the market for u will continue to get better. Sometimes it takes a while for word to get out to everyone.

 

[posplayr]

Posplayr
although I think both of these new products are great it seems u are a very busy fellow. And unless I've missed something most everyone that bought the original was very happy with the product. Since u already have that process and materials in a rhythm why not continue to make the original and just add the aux model for the guys with all the accessories? That way u get one extra circuit just like the fuse box ,not to mention all the other benefits ,and the guys with the accessories can buy the extra box. From what I've witnessed there are several of us already in line for the next run of the original and as folks continue to work on these bikes the market for u will continue to get better. Sometimes it takes a while for word to get out to everyone.

There is nothing wrong with the SSPB other than it is more complex that what people want and it takes me too long to build it as is. Although I could charge a little more that is not going to help total sales which ultimately is what drives any profit.

The only way to make it a successful product is to make it more generic. The SSPB II and the SSAB are very similar in design sharing many of the same parts but are still distinctly different items which opens more market. The way they are designed they probably need 1/2 as much labor as the original SSPB. Parts cost is about the same.

 

[Killdozer]

Would you be willing to sell an original as a kit? IE all the parts and such, but i have solder it together? I have a nice weller WD01 soldering iron and the will to wield it.

 

[81GS850]

Posplayr an idea, what would be the cost savings of offering it as a "kit" you know, sell all the components and instruction sheet for someone to solder together. Megasquirt EFI does it this way. Then you wouldn't be out your time that it takes for each individual kit. You could also offer many different designs IE the SSPB I and II.

^^^^ beat me to it by two hours!

 

[posplayr]

Posplayr an idea, what would be the cost savings of offering it as a "kit" you know, sell all the components and instruction sheet for someone to solder together. Megasquirt EFI does it this way. Then you wouldn't be out your time that it takes for each individual kit. You could also offer many different designs IE the SSPB I and II.

^^^^ beat me to it by two hours!

Can you solder 0.8mill pitch surface mount parts (that means there is something less than 0.5mm separation between pins)? It takes a little while to figure it out.

I think that would be worse and take even more time.

One of the biggest pains in the @$$ is the 10 pin Molex connector; 2 out of 25 people wanted to crimp wires themselves and they may regret that decision now. And I did write a detailed analysis on various tools and procedures.

By spring, I might go ahead and finish the SSPB's that I still have heat sinks for, but that is an if. And if it comes to it I'm more likely to make the SSPB II and SSAB and try and sell them on Ebay.