Stop me before I kill again . . .

[MisterCinders]

So I built those SS brake lines per the sage advice of Nessism. It was easy as pie.

When I went to bleed the front brake to install the new line, the f*ck*ng bleeder snapped off. The broken bleeder is not leaking, so I can wait for a new front caliper that I ordered of eBay.

As I look into the rear brake bleed, I figured it worth checking out any better approaches, so I don't botch the rear bleeder too.

The front popped like so.

I started with my 8mm box wrench. It got a so-so grip on the bleeder nut, but would slip before turning the nut. My box wrenches are a bit cheapo, but the nut also showed a lot of wear. My sockets are better. So, I hit the area with some brake cleaner to get rid of dust/grime and then shot some PB blaster to loosen the bleed nut.

Waited a bit for the PB to do its thing. Then I returned with my 8mm socket, figuring the better tool would improve the grip. Using my 3/8" drive ratchet, but not necessarily "Hulking" out on it, the nut seemed to give a bit. Joke was on me, as that was the bolt metal failing as the whole thing sheared off of the caliper.

Given that series of events, any tips on how to NOT screw this up on the rear brake? The new front caliper was not terribly expensive ($25), and I had already picked up new pads for both brakes, so I am really only losing a little time, while I wait for the new caliper. Assuming rear calipers are not wildly more pricey than the front, I am in the same boat going forward. If that rear brake snaps too, I can get another one. I don't think these brakes have been tended in many moons.

That said, I am hoping that the wisdom of this forum can reduce my odds for a second fumble.

On a related matter, are the caliper rebuild kits worth doing? Z1 only carries a set for the rear brake, but some other posts suggest that stripping the assembly down and giving it a good cleaning is generally all that's needed.



TIA

 

[Souske]

Since you have the time, start hosing the remaining bleeders down with PB daily, in a week or so.
Are you using 6pt sockets?
Also 5/16" is just a hair tighter than 8mm

 

[MisterCinders]

Since you have the time, start hosing the remaining bleeders down with PB daily, in a week or so.
Are you using 6pt sockets?
Also 5/16" is just a hair tighter than 8mm

Sweet. That 5/16 tip sounds great.

The sockets are 6-point IIRC. The box wrench was 12.

Thanks.

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

When I installed new Goodridge brake lines I also rebuilt my front calipers. I used OEM kits from Partshark.com. Now that I think about it, the bleeders were a little worn and I probably should have replaced them too. Maybe speed bleeders would be nice?


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Guard Guy]

Mister Cinders if you call Z1 Enterprises they can get you all the pieces of a front caliper rebuild kit. Chris there was most helpful.

 

[Adler]

You may not have to replace the whole caliper just because the bleed screw sheared. Sometimes you can get it out. It even has a nice predrilled center hole.

 

[hampshirehog]

Blowtorch, cool, penetrating oil, let it sit.
Blowtorch, cool, penetrating oil, let it sit.
Blowtorch, cool, penetrating oil, let it sit.
Blowtorch, cool, penetrating oil, let it sit.

Pentrating oil, more penetrating oil, even more penetrating oil.

Then have a go at undoing the blighter using a ring spanner; 2 fingers only. If it doesn't shift go back to the beginning. These beggars just love to shear off when they've sat on there a while.

Oh, if you snap one just replace the banjo bolt with a bolt with a built in bleeder - about ?5.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

Mine had considerable corrosion and was not that close to 8mm any longer. It made me nervous but I did manage to get it out with a 6 pt. deep socket. Anyway, my seals on the caliper were fine so the bleeder was really the only part that needed to be replaced. Advance had a kit of two which fit perfectly for $6. Of course there's only one caliper on my bike, but that's still a little bit cheaper (and a lot less waiting) than one OEM.

 

[FiremanBob]

As others have said, I avoid using my 12-point wrenches unless really necessary because they grip on the corners. But if the threads are that corroded, patient use of heat and oil is the best solution. It just can't be done in a hurry.

As for prevention, a layer of Teflon tape on the bleed screw threads or a light coat of anti-seize will do it.

 

[MisterCinders]

You may not have to replace the whole caliper just because the bleed screw sheared. Sometimes you can get it out. It even has a nice predrilled center hole.

Drilling out stripped bolts only works for me AFTER I have ordered a replacement part.

 

[Big T]

You should disassemble the caliper and clean it out

Rebuild as necessary based on the inspection

 

[chuck hahn]

Little anti seize on the bleeders wont hurt either.

 

[MisterCinders]

So one of the two bleeders on the rear brake seems to have come pre-sheared for my convenience!

I think I will just order a rebuild kit from Z1 and some new speed bleeders to replace the old ones. Gonna try to drill out that bleeder before I hunt down a new rear brake assembly, since the rear calipers I see on eBay look like they will have dodgy bleeders of their own.

What makes a "speed bleeder" speedy BTW?

 

[MisterCinders]

Also what size bleeders do I need? 7mm or 8mm? I know the hex portion is 8mm, but I don't know what the list size references (e.g., the thread size? head size?)

 

[hampshirehog]

Or just fit one of these:

 

[MisterCinders]

I looked at those banjo bleeders, but others suggest that you still need to bleed out the calipers themselves.

Any clues on bleeder screw size? Z1 lists both under the 1978 GS750EC listings - a 7mm x 1.0 and an 8mm x 1.25. At $13 a pair and needing a total of 3 screws, not trying to buy $26 of wrong or extra screws.

 

[hampshirehog]

It's the fine thread - 1mm.

Those banjo bolts with the bleeders bleed the caliper as well - of course they do. I've used them on 100s of bikes.

The only 'difficulty' is sometimes in bleeding calipers where the banjo bolt sits quite low on the caliper (and thus there is loads of air above it). Simples as they say. Undo one caliper mounting bolt and spin the caliper round so that the banjo is now at the highest point of the caliper and bleed away. On some multi piston types you do have to pull the caliper off the bike and bleed it with a block of wood sitting between the pads replacing the disc.

I couldn't afford to have a bike sat in the workshop for a few days while the penetrating fluid got to work. Did a 'snotty' SV650 front and rear yesterday - that bled easily.

 

[MisterCinders]

So 7mm x 1.00 for bleeders. Where did you score those banjos? I recall a link somewhere but lost it.

 

[hampshirehog]

Where did you score those banjos? I recall a link somewhere but lost it.

I'm in the UK and can get them from loads of places - HEL, Goodrich etc al make them.

Here's one on Ebay (they do them in stainless as well).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BANJO-BOL...62?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item56461878ca

 

[MisterCinders]

OK - I ordered a rebuild kit for the rear brake and some bleeder screws from Z1. A new front brake caliper is en route, as are some new left-handed drill bits to help extract those broken bleeders.

While I wait for these parts, can I go ahead and get started tearing down the old brakes, even though I cannot bleed them first? Recall that I have no functioning bleeder for the front brake, and that only one of the two rear bleeders is intact.

Since I am just going to tear everything down, is there any danger in pulling the brakes and breaking them down unbled? Can I even bleed the rear brake with only one functioning bleeder screw?