Stuck Slide

[RickW]

I've done some search on this and I am not seeing my problem...
79 GS1000L, VM carbs. Stock. Recent disassemble, dip and new o-rings, etc. Ran good for several months.
My throttle suddenly began sticking open. I checked all the obvious suspects (return spring, cable play), and now the carb-rack is on the bench. BTW: My how I hate removing this! And even less do I enjoy installing. I think while I have off I am going to apply heat to the air box to bring the boots closer to the intake end of the carbs in order to alleviate what I'm certain is the cause for some backfire.
Any how... the slide is very tight; it would, in operation, on the shaft with the other three carbs, snap back, but after disassembly I cannot push it back down the throat. It goes in and then jams up. I've removed the needly to ensure no damage while I monkey around.
Do we light wet sand? Is it merely a cleaning matter? re-dip?
Thoughts? Mockery? Accolades?
Thanks folks
Rick

 

[Big T]

So, you checked the action of this slide after the original dip and it moved freely?

Don't sand the slide, it coated. Check the slot in the side of the slide for crud or obstructions

Pull the carb off, strip it and use a scotchbrite in the bore. Clean the bore, put the slide back in and see what happens. Watch out for the locator nub

If youre having a lot of trouble taking off and installing VMs, you probably need new boots. I can do mine in about 15 minutes, start to finish

Your problem is a bit weird

 

[Guest]

maybe try switching slides with one of the other carbs to make see if the problem is the with slide or the carb body.

 

[Guest]

Depending on the dip you use for the carbs and how long you leave it in, you can get a bit of greyish material from the carbs that will jam up the slides when it drys out. WD-40 will cut it and clean it out, but you might have to work at it a bit to get rid of it all. I don't know if this is your problem, but I would suspect it is possible from your description.

 

[RickW]

Thanks folks
BigT: Yeah, Dipped about a year ago; worked great til it started sticking. The slot appears to be w/o obstruction.
Which boots? The primary trouble seems to just be getting the rack out of the spot. But, the center two boots on the airbox don't want to completely cover the intakes on the carb.
@ Derwood: Yeah... i will try the slide in different body.
@ Oldvet, Well, WD40 is one of God's great cure-alls

Rick

 

[Big T]

Rick

Here's my removal method

Remove

side covers
Gas tank
Bolt from rear MC reservoir
Rear air box
Bolts holding air box to frame

Then

Loosing all the clamps on the boots
Slide air box back
Tip rear of carbs upward
Pull back
Use screwdriver to slide rear boots down the back of the carbs, working from one side to the other
Slide carbs out the right side

I would say that assembly is the reverse, but it takes a few more back and forths with the airbox boots. I go up to the float bowls, then over the carb mouth, then the front usually goes in and you can get the airbox boots up over the mouths and wiggle everything into place.

The reluctant boots can be softened with a heat gun before you slide the carbs in

 

[RickW]

OK so... slide from stuck carb smoothly acting in neighboring carb. Slide from neighboring carb sticks in throat of carb #4, aka, the culprit. There is some blackness, almost like carbon deposit, in the culprit's throat. I'll disassemble (actually, even though i did them all last year, am considering complete o-ring and gasket, disassmebly and soak for the whole rack of them just because I can), and dip this carb and see if that works. I know you're all on the edge of your seats awaiting resolution.
I tried a little "scotchbrite" per suggestion and there appears to be some movement, but am reticent to use much abrasive to clean the throat; need I be worried about scratching it? My first thought was along the lines of, "where is that small wire brush?" But I'm guessing that invites more problems?

 

[Big T]

Rick

a green scotchbrite is much finer than any wire brush

steel wool is finer still

scrub around the bore, not up and down

And, hold the carb upside down while you scrub, so the crud runs out the top and not down into the holes

 

[trippivot]

good luck, go slow, take pictures . there are a lot of parts that work together there.

go easy on the abrasives use more solvent

 

[RickW]

So... lunch time inspiration, or... brain fart!
I was cleaning with a green scratchie, i call the scotchbrites (!) when I again heeded Derwood again and tried #3 slide in #4 carb and, #4 slide in #3 carb. They each moved smooooovely....
Since I was getting such smooth action, is there any reason why I cannot swap them and go that way???

 

[GateKeeper]

I see no reason

 

[mrl1000l]

sounds kosher to me

 

[Guest]

I wonder if someone switch the carb bodies and you switched the slides last time you cleaned them.
I'd measure the ID of the engine side bores.