The 2,298 Mile Wes Cooley

[rudeman]

So it looks like it has a hand bent yoshi exhaust like what was originally on my '78 1k. Does it have the hand done emblem on the can?

Getting on here late in the game...That Yoshimura pipe is a street pipe. I had the same pipe in black on my ST. I opted for it to avoid cutting the frame to fit the race pipe. I really wante to go with the race pipe but the idea of cutting the frame was a show stopper. It was great until I began dragging it (a lot) in right-handers. I decided to go with the race pipe (not hand bent) when my rear wheel lifted. I was very fortunate to regain control and not crash. The up swept tail pipe looked a ton better IMO but more importantly it did not touch in right-handers; if it did it meant i was already down.

The hand bent version had the up swept tail pipe and like the description suggests, was bent by hand after filling the pipes with sand to prvent kinks or overly sharp bends. Consequently, it cost nearly twice as much as the race bend or street bend pipes. No two hand bent pipes are alike and they are pretty easily distinguished from the machine bent pipes. Welded on metal emblems came a little later as neither of the pipes I ran had them. Mine were purchased in 1981 and 82.
You can see the smoother bends in the head pipes in this shot of Cooley wheeling the Yoshimura Suzuki GS1000

You can get a look at the head pipes here too. Note - no fairing. Cooley's first GS1000 had no fairing - even in 1979.

You get a good look at the hand bent pipes here.

Please excuse the appearance of my soon to be started project 1000ST. I have it posted to show the "race bend" pipe. The head pipes are machine bent with a tail pipe similar to the one used on the hand bent pipe. I had to cut a section of the frame between the brake pedal and passenger peg. I was able to retain and use the passenger peg.

Here you can get a good look at the bend of the head pipes. The hand bent pipes have a more radiused bend that is almost continuous to the collector.

A good look at the tail pipe. I had a small steel tab welded to the frame to which I bolted the tail pipe.


Sorry for the hijack. Your bike looks great! Keep it moving.

 

[Vmass]

Rudeman,

Thanks for the Yoshi lesson.....much appreciated.

Nice looking S you have there! Do you have a thread for it?

 

[rudeman]

Thanks Rich,

I had a thread for the 1000ST under my previous incarnation in GSR. It's been on hold as I was busy with my daughter's HS and collegiate athletic career. Also was busy replacing the fender on my bass boat trailer. Right now I am getting my recently acquired 1000EN right so i can safely ride with my son.

Yours is shaping up quite nicely!
Rudy

 

[Vmass]

Thanks Rich,

I had a thread for the 1000ST under my previous incarnation in GSR. It's been on hold as I was busy with my daughter's HS and collegiate athletic career. Also was busy replacing the fender on my bass boat trailer. Right now I am getting my recently acquired 1000EN right so i can safely ride with my son.

Yours is shaping up quite nicely!
Rudy

I hear ya....those kids get in the way of our hobbies!! My son had his first full day as a freshmen in college today.

 

[rudeman]

I hear ya....those kids get in the way of our hobbies!! My son had his first full day as a freshmen in college today.

Excellent!! I hope he has a great experience. My daughter just finished her fist week as a Sophomore.

 

[Vmass]

One of the next tasks is to refurbish the forks.

A couple of questions:

1) What do you think about the springs.....replace or not? It's a low mileage bike, but since I need to pull it apart for the seals, I am thinking it makes sense to replace them.

2) It looks like OEM springs are available for $40 bucks a piece. If I do replace, any reason why I shouldn't do OEM over progressive? I am trying to keep this very original bike in stock condition.

I am looking forward to the fork work, as a lot of it is new to me.

 

[Nessism]

One of the next tasks is to refurbish the forks.

A couple of questions:

1) What do you think about the springs.....replace or not? It's a low mileage bike, but since I need to pull it apart for the seals, I am thinking it makes sense to replace them.

2) It looks like OEM springs are available for $40 bucks a piece. If I do replace, any reason why I shouldn't do OEM over progressive? I am trying to keep this very original bike in stock condition.

I am looking forward to the fork work, as a lot of it is new to me.

The stock fork springs are pretty soft because the are designed to work in conjunction with supplemental (air pressure) support. Fiddly work to keep them properly pressurized, but if you are up to it the forks will perform fine. If you decide to stay with the stock setup there is no need to go and change the springs (even if they have sagged with age) since you need to add air regardless. The advantage of going with Progressive/sonic springs is you alleviate the need to fuss with the air. This is particularly beneficial on a bike you don't ride often. Honestly though, on a bike like this you may as well just stay stock and save the money.

 

[rudeman]

When I do my front end I'm going to use OEM 1000S springs. I REALLY liked the way it handled and it was a nice smooth rider too. I'll set my compressor to 15PSI and give 'em a bump once in a while. I have an air fork equalizer installed but after some spirited riding I sometimes see some fluid in the tubes. It makes me think some fluid is getting crossed over from one side to the other and altering the level. Probably not a significant amount is being move but I have no way of knowing for sure and I'd rather not have to be concerned with it.

 

[Vmass]

I removed the gauges, brakes, tire and forks over the weekend and disassembled the left side fork. Since this is my first complete dissection of a GS fork, I decided to do one side completely, before pulling the other side apart, just in case I need it for reference purpose.

Disassembly went smooth and aside from the disgusting fork oil, all parts look new. After reading all of the methods on how to remove the lower allen bolt, I decide to hit up the big box store for the 24" rod and 4 bolt method.....worked perfectly and cost 5 bucks ( price check, Steve). After separating the two parts, I did need to send the threaded rod down the leg and give it a tap to get the bolt out.

Sprayed the lower leg with the Walmart aircraft paint removing to get rid of the yellowing clear. It will only need a little hand polishing to look like it did in March of 79' ( just noticed the production with the fork removed). Interesting how the factory didn't polish the whole leg, just the most visible area.

Seals arrived yesterday so I hope to get this one assembled and get on to the next one during the week, as I don't believe I have any garage time available this weekend.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Disassembly went smooth and aside from the disgusting fork oil, all parts look new. After reading all of the methods on how to remove the lower allen bolt, I decide to hit up the big box store for the 24" rod and 4 bolt method.....worked perfectly and cost 5 bucks ( price check, Steve). After separating the two parts, I did need to send the threaded rod down the leg and give it a tap to get the bolt out.

Rich, can you post a picture of the tool you made or a link to the process, I would love to rebuild both of mine as I'm sure they have never been touched, I've heard 15W is the right fork oil to use for these bikes, what are you using?

 

[rudeman]

Rich, can you post a picture of the tool you made or a link to the process, I would love to rebuild both of mine as I'm sure they have never been touched, I've heard 15W is the right fork oil to use for these bikes, what are you using?

I used 15W in my 1000EN and 1000ST and it works quite well.

 

[Vmass]

Rich, can you post a picture of the tool you made or a link to the process, I would love to rebuild both of mine as I'm sure they have never been touched, I've heard 15W is the right fork oil to use for these bikes, what are you using?

Sure will, I will also take a shot of the internals. The tool couldn't be simpler, a 24" threaded rod with two 1/2" bolts at each end. I will take a picture or two one night this week.

I didn't look into the fork oil, looks like Rudeman ha us covered.

 

[Vmass]

Below is a picture of all the components of the left fork, with the exception of the fork seal.

Also pictured is the "Fork Tool". The fork tool is used to hold the cylinder from spinning, as you remove the hex bolt from the bottom of the outer tube. Once the hex bolt is removed, you can remove the inner tube from the outer tube.

I found the " Fork Tool" mentioned in several threads.....here of course! The picture shows where I located the bolts and it worked well for me.

The outer leg has been stripped and ready for a little hand polish.



The tool is simply a 24" threaded rod with 4 1/2 nuts. I placed them a 1/2 up from one end and approximately 8" on the other end.

 

[Vmass]

I have one fork reassembled. Seal was replaced, as well as the 3 O-rings and drain screw. The hardest part was getting the new seal in far enough to allow the washer and snap ring to go back in.

I used the pvc pipe method. I may have been wasting some hits with the hammer, as the pvc is just a bit smaller than the ID of the lower tube. So, after a hit, you need to b sure the pvc is precisely over the seal, otherwise the fork lower will take the next hit.

I guess my biggest concern was forcing the seal in too far, resulting in squishing/damaging the new seal.

A change of weekend plans!!!!! I think I will get some garage time today!

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Thanks for the photo's Rich, I get it now.

Looks pretty simple.

 

[Vmass]

Last weekend I put the rebuilt front forks and new front tire on. The fork project went well and easier than I expected.

I am doing my best to keep this bike as original as possible. Before I removed the old clear coat from the left leg, I carefully removed the Air suspension label. However, since the fork oil had been leaking for years, it worked its way behind the decal and took some of the color away. Too bad, I may or may not use it. If I don't use it, maybe I will be able to source one.

Yesterday I found a couple hours and thought I would rebuild the front calipers. I pulled them apart expecting to find some pitted piston cups. To my surprise, the calipers are in fantastic shape. The pads even look new.

The only component that showed wear was the piston boot. It had deteriorated from seepage.

I thought I had purchased a couple of front caliper rebuild kits a while ago. When I went to look, I didn't see them. After looking for the kits online, seems they don't exist for the 79's. I need to order the boots, O-rings etc. individually and hopefully install all the front brake components next weekend.

 

[steve murdoch]

I remember a couple years ago ordering from E-Bay what i thought were front caliper kits that turned out to be rears.
Apparently their mistake, my fault.
Are the E and S calipers the same? No doubt shipping would kill this deal.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2333c5d4e9

 

[Vmass]

I remember a couple years ago ordering from E-Bay what i thought were front caliper kits that turned out to be rears.
Apparently their mistake, my fault.
Are the E and S calipers the same? No doubt shipping would kill this deal.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2333c5d4e9

The kit you linked to does not look like what I need. On this 79' I need the following for each caliper:

Two dust boots(one for the mounting arm and one for the piston)
One piston seal
Two O-rings for slider bolt
Bleeder and cap
$26.00 per caliper for the above parts through partfish (Steve?)

All of the above parts are available through Suzuki and need to be ordered individually, which is what I have done.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

I am doing my best to keep this bike as original as possible. Before I removed the old clear coat from the left leg, I carefully removed the Air suspension label. However, since the fork oil had been leaking for years, it worked its way behind the decal and took some of the color away. Too bad, I may or may not use it. If I don't use it, maybe I will be able to source one.

Rich, those decals are available, I think it was the same vendor that sells the round vinyl engine decals from the UK.
They do the chain guard and the fork leg decal, I was talking to them via email but never did order, I'll take a look later to see if I can find the emails.
Reproduction Decals may also do them, as they do replacement VIN# stickers, IIRC.

What are you doing for brake hoses?

Nice to see your progress on 2298, looks like it's going to be another stunning Cooley restore by VMASS.

Cheers,

David

 

[Vmass]

Rich, those decals are available, I think it was the same vendor that sells the round vinyl engine decals from the UK.
They do the chain guard and the fork leg decal, I was talking to them via email but never did order, I'll take a look later to see if I can find the emails.
Reproduction Decals may also do them, as they do replacement VIN# stickers, IIRC.

What are you doing for brake hoses?

Nice to see your progress on 2298, looks like it's going to be another stunning Cooley restore by VMASS.

Cheers,

David

Thanks David!

For the brakes lines I used an Apex line for the rear and will also use an Apex for the upper front. The lower front lines (part # 59240-49400) are still available from Suzuki and I will use those.

I wish the rear Suzuki line was still available, as the Apex doesn't quite have the same look. The front upper line doesn't matter much as it is not all that visible.