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The 650G is getting there...

Ed, the performance of my bike is similar to what you describe, although I do get a lift at about 6,000rpm. But solid power from idle through to redline. But with less weight is probably a bit more brisk than the G model. It does not have the massive change in characteristic like the 550 had at 5 and then 7k, but a lot more bottom end. It will run in 6th from 20mph and pull strongly. My gearing at present is a bit lower than standard though. Halfway between the 650 and 550 original gearing ratio.
 
Thanks Guys, Just trying to fathom if my bike would be faster/lighter than the 650G like Tom has done up for his personal use, now he has decided to keep it.

I know this is getting a bit off topic, so Tom tell me to p;ss off if you want, but this is the first "O" ring chain bike I have had for over 20 years and I need some advice on what is best to lube/spray the chain with. Presently I am using a lanolin industrial product, but would prefer to use the correct product. Actually my chain is a 530 "X" ring chain.

Chain lube, on sealed chains, doesn't do much. Keeps the outside from rusting, that's about it. The real lube is sealed inside. I just use WD-40, or some other spray stuff, or whatever I find laying around. A guy on a KLR forum who rides a buttload of miles on just one bike, kept careful records, using a lot of different lubes. He found that sealed chains lasted just as long using WD-40 on a regular schedule as with any of the chain lubes. The only time they go bad is when the rubber o rings fall out, then those links wear very quickly, no matter what you treat them with. The chain is pretty much junk as soon as any seals are missing. Maybe the seals last longer with some super duper chain lube, I doubt it.

Some of them I don't lube at all, like when I'm planning on changing them out to change ratios. I just run them dry. They don't seem to wear any faster, just get a little dusty looking.

The opposite is true for non sealed chains, you can't lube them often enough, and they wear quickly anyway as soon as any dirt gets in.

Damn, I think I'm turning myself into a shafty nutcase.
 
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Ed, the performance of my bike is similar to what you describe, although I do get a lift at about 6,000rpm. But solid power from idle through to redline. But with less weight is probably a bit more brisk than the G model. It does not have the massive change in characteristic like the 550 had at 5 and then 7k, but a lot more bottom end. It will run in 6th from 20mph and pull strongly. My gearing at present is a bit lower than standard though. Halfway between the 650 and 550 original gearing ratio.

I'm planning on using the 550's cams to keep that top end kick, 4-1 pipes, maybe some head porting, and selecting sprockets so that sixth is approximately equal to what fifth was originally. Acceleration is the object of the game. This one will be purely for fun, not really into the long distance thing on this bike.
 
I'm planning on using the 550's cams to keep that top end kick, 4-1 pipes, maybe some head porting, and selecting sprockets so that sixth is approximately equal to what fifth was originally. Acceleration is the object of the game. This one will be purely for fun, not really into the long distance thing on this bike.

I would like to see the head after the porting is done. I may get into modding one of my 650s in future. I am more or less inclined to slot the cams and play around with timing, I think the powerband could be moved higher with a little modification.

BTW, your 650g looks like a runner. I do sorta dig the primer color:cool:. Nice rescue.
 
BTW, your 650g looks like a runner. I do sorta dig the primer color:cool:. Nice rescue.

Thanks, but it's only in primer because I haven't figured out a stripe pattern I like yet. My wife thinks I should put some army looking star on it and call it good.

650750.jpg
 
I've always used Chain Wax on chains. These were not sealed o-ring chaings though. Nice thing about it is that nothing flings off. No mess.
 
Chain lube, on sealed chains, doesn't do much. Keeps the outside from rusting, that's about it. The real lube is sealed inside. I just use WD-40, or some other spray stuff, or whatever I find laying around. A guy on a KLR forum who rides a buttload of miles on just one bike, kept careful records, using a lot of different lubes. He found that sealed chains lasted just as long using WD-40 on a regular schedule as with any of the chain lubes. The only time they go bad is when the rubber o rings fall out, then those links wear very quickly, no matter what you treat them with. The chain is pretty much junk as soon as any seals are missing. Maybe the seals last longer with some super duper chain lube, I doubt it.

Some of them I don't lube at all, like when I'm planning on changing them out to change ratios. I just run them dry. They don't seem to wear any faster, just get a little dusty looking.

The opposite is true for non sealed chains, you can't lube them often enough, and they wear quickly anyway as soon as any dirt gets in.

Damn, I think I'm turning myself into a shafty nutcase.

I was just thinking that there would need to be some lubrication where the outside of the rollers make contact with the sprocket teeth. Is this not required?

BTW Tom, glad you got it road worthy, bike looks great, and will be more so with a proper coat of paint. You must be getting a fair number of mounts in that stable of yours by now.
 
I went with chain wax recently and like it. Less fling off and the sprockets have a nice layer of lubricant to reduce wear on the teeth and chain rollers.
 
I went with chain wax recently and like it. Less fling off and the sprockets have a nice layer of lubricant to reduce wear on the teeth and chain rollers.

Yeah, I'm sure that "lubricant" stays there at least a mile in perfect conditions.
 
I missed something? This is a shaft bike, right? Wax chain lube? OHH, I see what I missed. Sorry.

cg
 
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Cartridge emulators are in the forks, WOW what a difference!
Progressive springs, too.
Cracks in the road, holes, they just go thump, it don't hurt anymore and the bike feels very solid, it's just like they made the road a lot smother. the springs are a lot firmer and the ride is MUCH more comfortable anyway. I wish I could find rear shocks this good.
 
Thinking about something like this:

wholebike3.jpg


Picture the white areas being silver. The tail clashes with the rest of it, I don't like it, not sure how it will end up.
Paint program takes forever to make little changes, this took an hour just to fill in the colors. Is there something easier/quicker to use?

This one looks better to me, with the same stripe continued on the front fender:

NewStripe.jpg
 
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I sorta like the tail of the first picture with the striped tank in the second picture, has a little more balance with extra striping. The single striped tail doesn't quite jive with the non striped tank, to me at least. But please remember, my wife says I have no taste;).

I will agree, the stock 650 tail does leave me cold, it flows nicely but isn't very manly or something.
 
Here's the GS 650G that another forum member donated to my worthy cause:





Found a 650G tank and front fender from another member here, this had orange Krylon, gray primer below that, a really nice black and yellow stripe job, probably professionally done, and the original blue Suzuki paint job under that... And absolutely no dents, rust or Bondo. Yay! Got some side covers from the local wrecker.

P1030560.jpg




Here it is in primer:



P1030579.jpg

Just saw your thread....glad to see my old body parts (tank) getting new life! The front fender too? I still got 650G stuff taking up space in my garage.
Here's the before the before shot....I thought it was red not orange? Ugly either way! Nice progress and work.


100_3093.jpg
 
Thinking about something like this:

wholebike3.jpg


Picture the white areas being silver. The tail clashes with the rest of it, I don't like it, not sure how it will end up.
Paint program takes forever to make little changes, this took an hour just to fill in the colors. Is there something easier/quicker to use?

This one looks better to me, with the same stripe continued on the front fender:

NewStripe.jpg


The red dosen't do much for me but I like the first rear cowl (with the stripes around the bottom)and the 2nd tank with the strip. Maybe I'm not manly:D but I really like the 650g rear cowl. It's one of the best they made. Strip on the front fender would complete the design. What are cartirage emulators?

cg
 
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The red dosen't do much for me but I like the first rear cowl (with the stripes around the bottom)and the 2nd tank with the strip. Maybe I'm not manly:D but I really like the 650g rear cowl. It's one of the best they made. Strip on the front fender would complete the design. What are cartirage emulators?

cg
It will be a darker red, not sure how dark yet. I really like the shape of the tail too, just not sure how to paint it. Thanks for the opinion. The front fender will have matching colors and stripes, too.
It's too hard to do the paint thing for that, I already know what I want there.

Cartridge emulators, a little spring loaded valve you put in the fork under the spring. You have to drill out the compression holes in the damper rod too, easy stuff. They transform the clunky old primitive fork design into something a heck of a lot better. I'd say the front suspension is as comfortable as that on my BMW. Now I just need to figure out how to make the back to ride the same way.
You can adjust the compression however you want it, rebound is adjusted by changing the weight of fork oil. Google Race Tech for more info.
 
Hey Tom, just stopped in and found this thread!! great job so far :dancing: very glad to see the ol' girl getting the attention she needed.

Sounds like a great mod with the cartridge emulators, I had replaced the springs with what were billed as progressive springs, but I was never really sure if I could tell much difference.

As to the pipes' flow, not knowing much about anything, I thought they actually opened the bike up a little. that said, I did try to restrict them by welding a washer onto the end of the pipes (under the slip ons) to restrict the flow rather than muck about with rejetting anything. I was trying to be able to just put the originals directly back on if I didn't like the effect. :oops: I still don't know when I'll be in the states again, but I still have the stockers in the attic for you!

+1 on Tom's plastic welding expertise, the bags on the BMW are still holding up great, all across Europe and many miles in Portugal! :D

I bet you could find an older version of photoshop around somewhere, I just installed a version 5.0 on my computer and it works just great (they're up to at least 8.xx by now, anyone who is into graphics should have old disks just lying around!)

happy riding Man!!! :D
 
Might I suggest that you do a fading white stripes from the grills on the side covers ending about 2/3 of the way across?

Daniel
 
Wow I really like the seat on this bike any idea where it came from? I am restoring one just like yours but need a seat pan for the 650g mine is shot.I ended up leaving eveything painted black and did not stripe.
 
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