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The 650G is getting there...

tkent02

Forum LongTimer
Past Site Supporter
Here's the GS 650G that another forum member donated to my worthy cause:

P1030390.jpg


Complete with 850L tank, high handle bars, L front fender, Big Ass rack, mismatched signals, a really cool seat, and a little chrome thing hanging on the rear fender:

P1030389.jpg


Found a 650G tank and front fender from another member here, this had orange Krylon, gray primer below that, a really nice black and yellow stripe job, probably professionally done, and the original blue Suzuki paint job under that... And absolutely no dents, rust or Bondo. Yay! Got some side covers from the local wrecker.

P1030560.jpg


Got these cool little bullet turn signals on the 850 which was set up as a big road pig, fairings, hardbags, all of it. They were totally wrong for that bike, looked incredibly stupid, and nearly invisible under the bags on the back. They will end up one day on the 550/650 hybrid clone cafe racer where they will look pretty cool, but for now they are here on this 650 looking only moderately stupid.

P1030583.jpg

P1030582.jpg


Along the way did all of the usual BS, cleaned the carbs, adjusted the valves, replaced the stator, cables, put on lower bars. Fixed a bunch of leaks. It runs pretty darned good. The little shorty pipes are about as quiet as the stock ones, but I don't think they flow as well. The top end power seems a little lacking. Maybe because I was used to the riding the 750/1000 Projectile...

It has a super slippery Dunlop 491 on the back, and a Sport Demon on the front. If you corner hard enough and twist the throttle the rear steps out like a flat tracker. Especially on paint stripes. Kind of fun in a stupid sort of way.
I put on some clapped out 850 shocks because the 650 ones were a lot worse. The shocks are way too short, it handles like crap. Hope I don't dump it before I get around to putting the Road Riders on. :-)

Here it is in primer:

P1030581.jpg


P1030579.jpg


Next, some pattern of cool stripes and things in Red, Silver and Black, not necessarily in that order. Still tying to come up with some cool stripe ideas, I'm getting closer to having it figured out. I'm going to try using the Duplicolor Paint Shop stuff they sell in quart cans at the auto parts stores, with a real catalyzed automotive clear coat over the top to resist fuel. Total for all the paint, primer, clear and everything should be right around $130 or so. That's enough for three bikes, maybe more.
 
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Looking good! makes me feel all the more neglectful not having done anything to mine yet and there's only 2 months left in 2010.....
 
That is coming along nicely. Cant wait to see the paint... I should really go look at the 650G listed on my local CL. Im doubting any profit if I try to flip it next spring. Could always part it out. How much $$ have you sunk into yours ?
 
That is coming along nicely. Cant wait to see the paint... I should really go look at the 650G listed on my local CL. Im doubting any profit if I try to flip it next spring. Could always part it out. How much $$ have you sunk into yours ?

Bought the handlebars and tires, bought the tank and side covers for a good price. That's about it. Stole the stator from the 850, so I will need to replace that. A lot of the parts were laying around here already.
Probably $400 or so by the time it's all painted. More once the new shocks and emulators for the forks get here. This one I am going to keep, I like it.
 
Probably $400 or so by the time it's all painted.

We sold a CM400T a few years ago for $900. I figure if I give $300 for the bike and 4-5 hondo to make it road worthy.....break even. Unless I keep it too :)!
 
It's coming along. I'd like to know how you fixed the crack in the front fender. I sure like my 650, all though a little more zip wouldn't be bad. Wish I had the nerve to try and paint mine.

cg
 
I weld the cracks with a soldering iron. I took some pictures, when I get time I'll post a thread about it.
 
I weld the cracks with a soldering iron. I took some pictures, when I get time I'll post a thread about it.


I'd be interested in plastic welding techniques. I considered trying it, but have no experience.

cg
 
That's coming together really nicely.

I don't mind those little indicators. They'd improve your top speed by 5mph over the stock side-of-a-barn sized units. :D

Charlie, plastic welding with a soldering iron is pretty easy.
Use a wide tip and work in small circles.
It's sort of smudging the plastic all together.
Your other option is stuff called Plastex.
This stuff is amazing. I rebuilt the the tabs/plugs on the side covers for my old GS400 with it.
 
I'd be interested in plastic welding techniques. I considered trying it, but have no experience.

cg

Here's how I do it.

P1000553.jpg


Skinny little low power round tip soldering iron, medium hot. Enough to melt the stuff easily, not so hot it instantly smokes and burns through. Might have to unplug it momentarily to keep the temp right. I just make little stitches across the crack. Try to get them to melt deep, maybe halfway to 2/3 of the way through, or as deep as you can without going all the way through the plastic.

Closein.jpg


Probably should have cleaned up the surface better first, but it came out OK anyway.

The little wire in the picture is from a previous repair by a previous owner. It held fine, unlike the epoxy glue and silicone glue which had both mostly fallen off.

If strength is more important than looks, I do the stitches at an angle, like this:

///////////////////

Then flip it over and do this on the other side:

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\

Sometimes I do this on one side:

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

I think the little ridges left in the plastic makes it a little more rigid than a flat surface, like the little fins cast into something mechanical part when they want to make it stiffer.

I have fixed a lot of side covers, a few plastic fenders, the side bags and top box on the BMW that I flipped over in Ireland. They end up strong enough, maybe not as strong as new but pretty good. Better than any glue or anything that I've tried. It's really easy, the temperature is not that critical, doesn't really seem to matter exactly which technique, it just works.

If you guys have other methods you use, post them up.

Starting another thread in the correct forum...
 
Tom, that 650 top end would look good on a 550 crankcase. I wonder what the difference in performance is between a shaft drive and chain drive for the same motor. Would a chain drive be much quicker?
 
It would definitely way less..... & my 781000E is definitely faster than my 801000G (not that you'd notice except in a drag race....)

Similar setup but different 4:1 pipes on both bikes & of course the carbs are different as stock etc. 1000G also had 3 times as many miles on it though too :)
 
Tom, that 650 top end would look good on a 550 crankcase. I wonder what the difference in performance is between a shaft drive and chain drive for the same motor. Would a chain drive be much quicker?

A 550E is listed at about 431 lbs, a 650G is 468 lbs. The 550 has a six speed with closer ratios, the final drive ratio can be whatever you want. The drive shaft system I believe loses 16% efficiency, 8% per 90 degree change in drive direction. Not sure if it's exactly 8%, but it's something like that. I think I will send the head to some expert to port it or put in bigger valves or something too while I'm in there. Cam too maybe. 4-1 pipe, and a big airbox that breathes better. And I have some spoked alloy wheels, they are a lot lighter than the cast wheels. So, yeah, it should be a little rocket. You should know. I have a 550 and another basket case 550 with an extra engine, and an extra 650 top end waiting to go on it, so this 650 will not be a donor. I'm keeping it.
 
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It would definitely way less..... & my 781000E is definitely faster than my 801000G (not that you'd notice except in a drag race....)

Similar setup but different 4:1 pipes on both bikes & of course the carbs are different as stock etc. 1000G also had 3 times as many miles on it though too :)

How many lbs do you think the shaft adds to the weight of the bike.
 
How many lbs do you think the shaft adds to the weight of the bike.

Don't know for sure, but judging by the weight of the 1100 pumpkin I had, and the heavier swingarm and wheel, I would guess in the neighborhood of 30 lbs or so. There has to be a few more pounds in the transmission, too. I know the 850 is a metric sh;t ton heavier than the 750.
 
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The 850 weighs the same as the 1000 & the 750 weighs the same as the other 1000....

Tom's right. Officially it's about 35lb but add in the weight of the extra oil, the fact that the G carries an extra 10lb of gas etc plus the additional transimission losses etc.

The 1000G I had was a sweet ride though, better than the 1000E in a lot of respects.
 
The 850 weighs the same as the 1000 & the 750 weighs the same as the other 1000....

Tom's right. Officially it's about 35lb but add in the weight of the extra oil, the fact that the G carries an extra 10lb of gas etc plus the additional transimission losses etc.

The 1000G I had was a sweet ride though, better than the 1000E in a lot of respects.

Agreed, the 1100G was better in a lot of ways than the 1000E. Faster wasn't one of them.
 
Thanks Guys, Just trying to fathom if my bike would be faster/lighter than the 650G like Tom has done up for his personal use, now he has decided to keep it.

I know this is getting a bit off topic, so Tom tell me to p;ss off if you want, but this is the first "O" ring chain bike I have had for over 20 years and I need some advice on what is best to lube/spray the chain with. Presently I am using a lanolin industrial product, but would prefer to use the correct product. Actually my chain is a 530 "X" ring chain.
 
Don, I can't fathom why your 700cc 6 speed isn't quite a bit quicker than a near stock 650g. You should have more engine power (more displacement), less weight guessing around 450 wet vs 500 for g, and an extra gear plus the aftermarket 4 into 1 exhaust. Plus you can change gearing with different sprockets to match desires.

I will concur with Tkent, the high rev power output isn't the 650g strength. Mine willing revs but doesn't provide any great rush of power. It does accelerate smoothly from idle to redline in all gears though.
 
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