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  • In order to help others find info on a particular bike, be sure to put the year, make or model of bike that you are asking a question about, in the Topic Title. This will allow people to pass by posts they have no interest in.

The rusty old scooter.

There are some pics early on in the thread. I can get some close ups later of it assembled. Definitely an interesting setup. Shifting is accomplished by pulling in the clutch then twisting the handgrip assembly to shift. (3 speed).

I found it - no need for more pics...I guess I forgot about that, sorry.
 
No worries.

More progress this weekend. All control cables are finished. Definitely tedious working with and trying not to further damage the old unavailable cables. I had to completely unwind a strand from the throttle cable that was broken inside of the housing and hanging up. Installed the main wiring harness up to the handlebar junction block. I still need to repair a couple of connections in the switch cluster and headlight socket then install. Carb was given a quick cleanup / blowout and installed. It was pertty clean from semi continuous use for the last few years with mainly some old 2 stroke oil residue left behind.

The cute little Dellorto carb. I love exploded views of things.
http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
 
I've seen guys use bicycle cables to replace ancient unavailable cables for older things..the special ends are the hassle.

...btw...uhm, that carb looks a tad ....unpolished.... :cool:
 
The polishing was an evil somewhat entertaining diversion. Enough of that....
Back in my BMX days the art of saving / reusing cables was pretty well honed. The throttle cable looks to be the same small cables we used on our bicycles, and that would have been plan B. I?ve seen you tube videos of people making molds and using solder to make ends.
 
It took forever for me to get sleeply last night so......
I finished the wiring save for one rogue wire that I think may be a ground. Then I started assembling the body. Theres no money to do the seat so it will have a rag thrown over.... again. Once I clean paint and install the exhaust I should be able to start it and check the wiring and repaired switch cluster.
http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

Hmmmmm......It looks... nearly the same. The goal was mainly to get the controls and brakes working as best as they could. With everything cleaned and lubed, etc the action feels much smoother and easier.
 
Did you find the title,yet? If not you can register it in Vt easy enough.
 
I?m doing it totally ass backwards... No title yet. I was told by someone familiar with these things to just make up a bill of sale and take it to MVC and it should go thru. I did the legitimate procedure to get a replacement title several years ago, and the paperwork and check we?re retuned stating that one wasn?t necessary due to its age, small displacement or something along those lines. I may have to fudge it?s size and claim it?s a 150 of 200cc machine. Or do the VT thing.
 
Looks great Glen! Thanks for sharing.....
Thanks my patina loving friend.

Cleaned up and painted the exhaust tonight. Im working stupid hours (up at 4am to be in Philly for 6) so install will likely wait until the weekend. Then hopefully start it. Need to check for premix....
 
Thanks my patina loving friend.

Cleaned up and painted the exhaust tonight. Im working stupid hours (up at 4am to be in Philly for 6) so install will likely wait until the weekend. Then hopefully start it. Need to check for premix....

Lol...I used to be up at 4am to start work by 6am till 4 pm,,,monday thru thursday unless we had OT on the odd day off...and then there was the occasional saturday OT.....what doesn't kill you makes your paycheck stronger. After 25yrs of doing that, I almost miss it {laid off permanently I guess}..."the money" that is...
If your Dad had the title and it was lost, it shouldn't be too hard to get the state to change the name over for a family member, but it seems they're not too concerned over it...does it even need plates? 50cc Mopeds "here" ride unplated...so long as it meets all the legal standards.
 
The scooter came from the previous owners father, not mine and was originally purchased in the Virgin Islands so that lead is a ni ho... . If it was my dad's, it probably would have survived us kids....
 
There's a fancy town nearby with a fancy candy store. We stopped in with the kids earlier this year. It has a chocolate fountain where one can get a syringe full of liquid chocolate. Long after the kids were done with the chocolate and syringe, one found a good use today. Small funnel. I knew it would come in handy, although I pictured it being used to suck brake fluid out of something.

Exhaust on, oil in, gas in, electric issues. Grounds I suspect.
http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
 
Learing experience, success, failure....

Learing experience, success, failure....

I rechecked my wiring before calling it an early night last night. As simple as the thing is, I figured all of the stuff at the handlebars didnt matter a wit regarding spark, excepting the red wire that grounds when the button its connected to is pushed to shut it down. It was making electric, as the horn sounded when held on during kicks (spark plug out allowed inertia to carry the engine thru several revolutions per kick) . One clue stuck with me all day though - if I held the kill switch down and released it during kicks, the plug would spark once. My knowledge of points is very minimal. Even my three 60s cars had been converted to electronic ignition, but I figured - or swerved into the fix- that whatever opens and dumps the coil voltage to the plug may not be....

I pulled the generator cover and attempted to pull the rotor, but didnt have a small 2 arm puller.... after looking at it stupidly for a bit I noticed that the points are accessible thru openings in the rotor.... and they werent opening when the engine turns. I adjusted then to have.... a gap. Retested, and the 50 year old Chinese spark plug properly sparked.. and shocked me.

I got it started and rode 3/4 of the way around the block then it died. Fuel delivery issue. Then while kicking it, something in the engine clanked and now the kickstarter doesn't return, and the spring is now biased down instead of up.... gotta pull the sidecover off of the oil side of the engine.... I may not have to pull the engine though.

After the gap was opened.

http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr
 
...and you were having all sorts of good luck before this....{there's only two kinds of luck...}
1- I'd suggest the old "match book" thickness trick for point gap setting and maybe a point file in there wouldn't hurt to clean up the point contact surfaces.
2- "push start" it for now?
 
One of my fears came true. Need parts. The kickstart return spring broke. This should be fun....

http://Untitled by Glen Brenner, on Flickr

Depending upon which way the spring flexes (compression or elongation) you might be able to sleeve the two ends of the broken spring. If the spring is compressed under load this will work. If it is the other way you would probably have to weld the sleeve.
 
Looking at it and assuming the inner point is fixed and the outer is pinned to the kick lever...and that the kick start lever moves CCW {backwards} from this view, I'd say it compresses.
 
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