Tips for Removing Old Clear Coat on Aluminum

[WingMan71]

So...

I have a lot of aluminum that needs clean up and polishing on my '83 GS650GL. (Engine side covers, wheels, etc.)

What's the best way to remove any remaining old yellowed clear coat on those parts before starting to polish with a buffing wheel and buffing compound?

Can you just buff that old stuff off, or not? If not, what? Do you use some sort of solvent or paint stripper to remove it? Do you wet sand it?

I'd appreciate any advice and experience on this.

***

 

[smooth_358]

I sanded the clear off when I did a set of wheels once. takes forever. you can use a stripper, and then you can sand out your aluminum to fix imperfections stepping the grit until you are at 1500 or 2000, then start your buffing.

most people I know use aircraft stripper for things like this, but its still a messy pain most of the time

 

[Guest]

If the clear coat is pretty old and yellowed and dried out. I use steel wool, takes awhile but it gets it.

But once you got it down to the aluminum though it does take some effort to keep it that way. Especially if you let water sit on it too long.

 

[chuck hahn]

i use spray on paint stripper and wait 15 minutes.

 

[Vmass]

I have yet to find an easy way to get the old clear off. I tried the aircraft stripper and found it to be useless.

The best method I have found is an electric DA sander and several discs. Not great for tight spots, but over all it cut down on the hand sanding.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

I knew a gal once. She was a spray on stripper.
I use gel or spray on strippers with great success.
Outdoors
gloves and plenty of water and use eyewear.

 

[chuck hahn]

Rich...the temp of the metal plays a huge role. Warm the metal up till its kinda warm and the stripper will work much better.

 

[storm 64]

The procedure I use is:
First, I use a Scotch Bright type pad(fine) that mounts on a 90? Die Grinder. That will smooth out any casting marks and imperfections. For the screw indentations and coroners you can't get to. Use the same type of Scotch Bright pad but for a Dremal tool. (the little things are expensive so be gentle)
Second, I go over the part with a Scotch Bright hand pad about 320 grit that will take out the swirl marks.
Third, hit it with 400-600 grit wet sanding sandpaper.
Then you will be ready for the buffer.
Buffing tips:
Wear a dust mask and eye protection!
Wear cotton brown jersey gloves ( the parts will get warm)
Take the buffer outside in the lawn. So when the part flies out of your hand(it will) it won't slam on the concrete floor. Then you'll be going back to step one.
For the screw indentations and coroners use a buffing flob in your Dremal tool.
For the final polishing I use Mother's Mag & Aluminum polish with a hand towel. It's the best I ever came across.
It is definitely a dirty job, but the finished product is worth it! Good-luck

 

[Morrison]

Just as everyone else. I sanded w 400 then 800 then scotch brite then polishing wheel.

 

[chuck hahn]

Hrs and hrs of wasted time sanding....you guys really need lessons in how to quickly and efficiently do polishing work. Sanding is only needed for deep scratch and gouge removal...anything other than thats a time and materials waste.

This side cover was about 1 1/2 hrs from start of stripping till done. And it was as grey as an old ladies hair.

Heres my TX covers..about 2 1/4 hrs there...

Heres an hrs worth on Gregs Cooley covers and you all know how tyrashed they were.

 

[chuck hahn]

I can do an entire bike...fork lowers included in about 6 1/2 to 8 hrs depending on how deep the oxidation has gone.

 

[JEEPRUSTY]

Sanding is just silly
disolve the yellow crap with chemicals then buff with a progressively fine compound.
silly

 

[chuck hahn]

Jeepster..I use one compound...BLACK MAGIC. Then I do a quick follow up with BUSCHES SUPER SHINE ALUMINUM POLISH and the white cotton wheel on the buffer machine..done.

Its so quick and easy its just silly. Dirty as all get out but its almost effortless.

 

[chuck hahn]

OH...and use WIZARDS POWER SEAL when done and once each spring ( unless you really enjoy wearing out your arm repolishing stuff ).

 

[Guest]

Use "Zip Strip"! Brush it on, wait about 10 minutes, the wash it of with water, then buff it until you get the shine you want! Done!!

 

[Guest]

Chuck - what's 'Black Magic'? As in abrasive compound, metal polish, glosser etc? I'm asking because it sounds you're doing in one or two stages what it takes me six to do.

 

[chuck hahn]

I have been becoming a fan as of late for the brush on Aircraft Paint Remover myself. Bubbles it up quickly and it can be rubbed around again to get it down in deeper.

 

[chuck hahn]

Black magic is what is known as a CUT AND COLOR rouge. ( one step does it all principal ) Most of those red, white, green and psychidelic rouges are pretty useless really.

I have the Eastwood 1HP blue buffer machine and a hard yellow pleated buff for the hard work. The other side of the machine sports your everyday white spiral sewn cotton wheel in 1/2 inch width ( fits into the contours better than anything thicker ).

As long as you get the clear off your set to go. Skip all the other stuff and just keep the wheel dressed with the black magic and youll crap when it just about wipes the grey away ...well..like magic. Frank Z. has witnessed the stuff in action and he will tell you exactly what I am telling you. He even did many parts himself with my coaching and is pretty darn good at it now also.

Heres the links to the stuff I use.

http://www.caswellplating.com/black-magic-rouge-grade-a.html

http://www.wizardsproducts.com/index.php/how-to-use-wizardsr-mainmenu-5/137-power-seal-metal-sealant

http://www.buschshineproducts.com/super-shine-aluminum-polish-p-3.html

 

[tkent02]

Paint remover. Bead blast. Acetone. Powdercoat.

 

[chuck hahn]

Yeah...NOW!!!!!! HA HA