Well it was free with a title

[wymple]

Working on a buddy's RD350, and he's so happy it runs he gave me this project. Starts good, runs great, 1977 with a clean title. Everything is Jerry rigged really badly. I really needed another project. I'll put on new timing belts and then wonder what the hell to do with it. As long as they come free.

 

[chuck hahn]

Heres your forum. Anything I can help with just ask away.

http://www.ngwclub.com/

 

[storm 64]

I'm not sure who got the better deal? Your buddy got his bike running and also got rid of a "project bike"...

 

[Sandy]

Check with the Wing forum but I think the Honda Civics of the same era used the same belt at about half the price.

 

[chuck hahn]

NAPA...its a DT 274 belt. Need two.

Heres the manual in PDF form..

http://www.gl1000.info/Documents/Honda_GL1000_75-79_Service_Manual.pdf

 

[wymple]

I'm on a roll lately. My son got a free GS550 with under 4300 miles on it, sat since 2007. Carbs fitted on it started right up and sounded like brand new. My buddy picked up a decent RD350, 1975, sat since 2008. Carbs cleaned up and it started 1st kick (really). 17K on the bike. Charging test shows 13.9 volts across the battery. A-hole got it from a transferring supervisor for 100 bucks. FOR AN RD350! Now this Goldwing that started and ran decent right off the back of the truck, sat all winter. It's a rat bike, but still......

 

[chuck hahn]

Take the seat off and tap the locking ring that secures the sending unit into the tank and take a peek inside.

 

[chuck hahn]

Seat comes off with two bolts that hold it to the frame. Right ahead of the turn signal stalks at the back of the seat.

 

[wymple]

I bet down the road I will be pestering you to death over this thing.

 

[chuck hahn]

The major things I would do are the timing belts, drain the anti freeze and do the flush and fill..same as you would a car, check the charging, and always use aluminum block safe antifreeze. I use DEXCOOL 50/50 mix myself. I use the Prestone radiator flush for the cleaning. And cycle 3 or 4 refills with just water after the flush chemicals. This ensure the chemicals are all gone AND youll notice each time you drain it there will be sediment in the water.

Read the manual in the cooling system section for details. And if the fuel gauge doesnt work AND the temp gauge also doesnt work ( both at the same time ) , they are on a circuit run by a 7 volts regulator thats mounted under the left side shelter. I have a link stored for a solid state replacement if its needed.

And ask away anytime..I enjoy being of help on bikes.

 

[chuck hahn]

Carb rebuild tutorial. Says GL1100 but same ( basically ) carbs as you have.

http://www.filipi.com/ngw/roady/Carb_Overhaul_GL1100.pdf

 

[chuck hahn]

This is the 7V regulator i mentioned. Its located at about the 5 Oclock position below the fuse box.







And heres the solid state replacement that i was telling you about.

http://goldwingdocs.com/Store/Goldwing-7-Volt-Regulator.asp

 

[Steve]

When you change the timing belts, consider splurging a bit and do the tensioners, too.

.

 

[wymple]

Take the seat off and tap the locking ring that secures the sending unit into the tank and take a peek inside.

There is surface rust above where the fuel level sat. Gas smells normal. How hard is it to remove the tank from the old beast so I can clean and seal it? Also, I read that the crossover coolant line below the carbs should get new 0 rings? How likely is this problem with everything bone dry and no leaks weeping at all? Odometer shows 58K. I got most of the junk pulled off, fairing and all related crap. The air filter looks like new. Get this, tho. The rear fender is a POS but in my garage I have the rear from a Moto Guzzi that looks pretty much identical and has the same mounting holes! One of my sons has laid claim for a naked lowrider. And those big honkin' blue lights both work, pretty bright. Wonder if I'll ever find a use for those.

 

[chuck hahn]

Gotta take off the back wheel and pull tank out the rear of the frame. See section 13, page 26 for detail in the manual.

The orings will need replaced IF you get it up to operating temp and you can smell coolant. Get it up to operating temp and stick your nose down by the carbs and do the sniff test to see if your smell coolant. But the carbs come out real easy. Just remove the air cleaner and the air cut off valve from on top of the carbs so there is clearance to lift them out..see the manual in the carb section for location of the cut off valve.

Remove the choke cable from the carbs and the fuel line from the pump to the carbs on the right side.

Then you loosen the clamps to the intakes at the carbs ( all 4 intakes ), remove the bolts that bolt the elbows to the heads and swivel them ( intakes ) up and remove the carbs out the left side of the bike just far enough to remove the throttle cables. At this point remove the carbs fully and your exposed to the antifreeze tubes. NOTE::: as youll see, the intakes have orings as well to seal them to the head..replace them.

Youll see they go into the thermostat housing thats center line of the block and theres an elbow that goes into the heads. Remove the bolts from the elbows and pop the elbows loose..theres a gasket there. Then the entire tube will slide out and youll find the orings at each end of the tubes. Clean the seats in the thermostat housing and the elbows with some fine steel wool and the tubes as well.

A dab of grease will greatly help reinserting the tubes as the orings fit snugly. TIP:: When reinserting the tubes, set the orings square to the holes they fit in and press in and use a twisting motion to get them in. Dont want the orings to pinch and tear...been there and done that. See section 8, page 13 in the manual for detailed diagram of the system.

Insert the tubes into the thermostat housing first and then slip the elbows on. Set the new gaskets and bolt down the elbows. I have some Harbor Freight hole punches and make my own gaskets. Use a razor blade and scalp off a gasket and trace it out on some quality gasket material.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-hollow-punch-set-3838.html

Service manual..dont recall if i had sent it or not....

http://www.gl1000.info/Documents/Honda_GL1000_75-79_Service_Manual.pdf

 

[wymple]

I took it up to operating temp and ran it for a good 10 minutes. Not a hint of anything. I'm going to pull the rad & flush the crap out of everything when I do the belts. It seems all pretty good under the dirt. The headlight bucket was still on the bike tucked behind the fairing, and bent all to hell. Aftermarket coming up. The ears that held it are in great shape. Tomorrow I pull the back fender & get out the powerwasher. Got some really nice rims under the grime.

 

[chuck hahn]

My buddy Matt just got a 76 a few weeks back. Tank is rusty too. Mine had some attention needed as well. Heres what my solution was instead of yanking the tank.

Remove the seat and on top of the tank is the sending unit..its held in by a ring that turns and wedges the sending unit down. Tap that ring counter clockwise and remove the sending unit. Get 5 gallons of CLEANING vinegar because its 8% strength instead of the standard 5%. Drain the tank of gas ( i syphoned them dry ). Then fill then tank with the vinegar and let it set a few days. It will eat the rust.

In the mean time get a sort of stiff rod and bend a loop on the end like a gun cleaning patch holder would look like. Once the vinegar is syphoned out..or drained via the drain plug on the right side of the tank..take the metal rod and crimp some steel wool in the loop and dump in some dish soap and water and use the rod to scrub the inside of the tank. Rinse well a few times and drain the tank. Next, take said rod and use a rag this time to go in a sweep the sediment to the bottom of the tank.

At this point, I have a rubber tube with about a half inch hole in it. I stick the tube into the shop vac hose and duct tape it in and close off the rest of the hose. The rubber tube is my suction hose for vacuuming the bottom of then tank. Button it up and put gas in it.

 

[wymple]

Great idea. I didn't think I could get all particles out of the tank if I didn't pull it. We soak carbs in vinegar and water, 50-50. I need straight strength?

 

[chuck hahn]

Yes...straight strength on the vinegar. I go a 48 hr soak to be well sure it has had ample time to dissolve the rust.

 

[chuck hahn]

I put the vinegar in Matts tank at around 10:30 last night and this is what was floating on top at 9 AM. Will syphon the tank Saturday AM, scrub it with the steel wool, rinse, do a scrub with some Acetone, rinse, and probably fog the tank with some WD 40. He probably isnt gonna be putting gas in right away so the WD 40 will stop flash rusting till then.

Floaties loosened up...



The sending unit locking ring....Note there are arrows that are supposed to be lined up once the locking ring is tapped tight. Its really not necessary unless it bothers you that they arent..HA HA.