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Winter fuel stabilizer

You can still get 94 non ethanol here in B.C. All Chevron stations carry it.......

And if I tried crossing the border with two 50-barrel drums strapped to the back of my Suzi, might I get a second look?

Other things have also changed since the "good old days". :(:(
 
Why not do what the service manual says for long term storage?? Takes less than 10 minutes. I took my 78 1000C out of storage after 2 1/2 years and all I had to do was replace the 4 holed gasket behind the petcock lever. It was stuck and when I turned it it tore. Other than that it fired like it was put away yesterday and I rode it all summer. Just redid the storage proceedure and put it away last week. may be another 2 years or so but it will be good to go as usual because i do it right.
 
I don't store them for winter. I warm them to operating temp at least twice a month, and try to ride at least once a month. Trouble is, since Suzi got back on the road this July, the Sportster is feeling a little neglected.

But both bikes have to be oiled, gassed, charged and ready to go at a moment's notice. It's in my DNA.
 
Still just a few minutes to prep them if even for a month or two. Pour in gas when ready and ride away. AND 100% real gas will get a little darker in a few months but it does not need stabilizers for that short a time period. If it worried you put a line on the petcock and drain the tank into a can and pour it in a car. Dump in a gallon when taking a bike out and go to a gas station.
 
Maybe I'm missing something. But I learned yrs. ago, the inside of a gas tank can't rust without the presence of air. For that reason I've always kept my bikes completely full. My old wrecked GS1000S sat for at least 10 yrs. completely full, till someone here at GSR needed a GS1000 tank. After finally finding the key & getting the cap off, pouring the old stale, dark brown, stinking gas out & washing it out with new gas, the inside was as shiny as it was when I had wrecked it, I think in 1994. Just not paying attention, a few yrs. back, I left the tank off my KZ1300, sitting empty in my garage for a couple of mo. & when I opened it up it was completely coated with red surface rust. It may be wrong, but in the yrs. I've got left, unless I forget, & that's very possible, I'm keeping mine packed full for the winter & with no ethanol.
 
There is also "Stabil 360" which is supposed to create a vapor that prevents rust inside of tanks?????
 
Maybe I'm missing something. But I learned yrs. ago, the inside of a gas tank can't rust without the presence of air. For that reason I've always kept my bikes completely full. My old wrecked GS1000S sat for at least 10 yrs. completely full, till someone here at GSR needed a GS1000 tank. After finally finding the key & getting the cap off, pouring the old stale, dark brown, stinking gas out & washing it out with new gas, the inside was as shiny as it was when I had wrecked it, I think in 1994. Just not paying attention, a few yrs. back, I left the tank off my KZ1300, sitting empty in my garage for a couple of mo. & when I opened it up it was completely coated with red surface rust. It may be wrong, but in the yrs. I've got left, unless I forget, & that's very possible, I'm keeping mine packed full for the winter & with no ethanol.

Anytime I keep a tank without fuel it, like on a project bike, I drain it, remove the gas cap to let it vent and air out thoroughly then just cover the opening with a cloth or something that will let breath. When it doesn't stink anymore I can bring in the house. An empty tank with the gas cap on ....good luck with that. Otherwise keep them full and if it's going to miss the next riding season I refresh the gas by dumping it into a vehicle I'm using and refill.
 
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Maybe I'm missing something. But I learned yrs. ago, the inside of a gas tank can't rust without the presence of air. For that reason I've always kept my bikes completely full.

That's been my S.O.P. for years. I bring the fuel level as high as it can go without spilling. Never had a hint of corrosion in the fuel tank.

Not necessary with the HondaPotamus, since its fuel tank plastic and of course doesn't corrode.
 
Is there any truth to the rumor that if you use premium gas rated at 91 or 93 you don't need to add sta-bil? I've heard several people make this claim.
 
Opinion, but I think that unless the premium gas you're buying is also ethanol-free, Sta-bil is still a very good idea if the tank/carbs are sitting for a while with gas in them. I use at least double the recommended dosage for parking my bike up for winter, make sure I run it enough to work through the carbs and fill the bowls.
 
Why not do what the service manual says for long term storage?? Takes less than 10 minutes. I took my 78 1000C out of storage after 2 1/2 years and all I had to do was replace the 4 holed gasket behind the petcock lever. It was stuck and when I turned it it tore. Other than that it fired like it was put away yesterday and I rode it all summer. Just redid the storage proceedure and put it away last week. may be another 2 years or so but it will be good to go as usual because i do it right.

My manual says to weekly take the bike for a walk in fifth gear without the spark plugs... That seems like a weekly 10 minute operation?

It also says to keep it on the center stand, but I can't really figure out what kind of witchcraft I need to use to make it work (I weigh like 90 kilos and still cant get it ontop of it).
 
I also do the fill tank completely, add marine formula Sta-bil and run in through the carbs. I've also used Starbron and Biobor's brands with good results. Always with zero ethanol fuel. I suppose that I wouldn't need the ethanol treatment type of additive, but the regular old style Sta-bil seems hard to find.

Unless a gas station has a separate E0 pump, or is a scarce all E0 station, you can bet it's E10 or worse. At least in the US. Unleaded comes through the pipelines without ethanol at either 84 or 90 PON. Distributors have to add the ethanol later as it would quickly corrode the pipelines. I don't know if the US gov't is still doing the payola bonus on per gallon ethanol dosing, but there have been cases where stations were tested out at crazy levels of ethanol.
 
It also says to keep it on the center stand, but I can't really figure out what kind of witchcraft I need to use to make it work (I weigh like 90 kilos and still cant get it ontop of it).

I, and a lot of other folks, used to struggle getting the bike on the center stand as well. Once you get the technique down, you'll wonder why you struggled with it so much. I only weigh about 70k (155lbs.) and I can now do this with no problems at all. It's more about driving the center stand into the ground with your right foot (I stand on it fully), then it is about lifting or pulling with your arms. This video shows/explains it probably as good as any I've seen. Really all your arms do is gently pull the bike to the rear. If your stressing your back and arms/shoulders, you're doing it wrong.



.
 
If your stressing your back and arms/shoulders, you're doing it wrong.

... or you have sacked-out springs. A loss of half an inch (and these are 30 to 40 year old springs, remember) will make you struggle.
 
I, and a lot of other folks, used to struggle getting the bike on the center stand as well. Once you get the technique down, you'll wonder why you struggled with it so much. I only weigh about 70k (155lbs.) and I can now do this with no problems at all. It's more about driving the center stand into the ground with your right foot (I stand on it fully), then it is about lifting or pulling with your arms. This video shows/explains it probably as good as any I've seen. Really all your arms do is gently pull the bike to the rear. If your stressing your back and arms/shoulders, you're doing it wrong.

Thank you! I went to work and I did it, I dont think I have the handle but the frame under the saddle was fine. You are right, it doesn't take a lot of power.
 
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