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1980 GS850GLT Road-worthiness Project

The choke knob kept sliding in... I had to clamp it with a pair of vice grips just so I could have both hands free to start the engine.

The bad:

1. The choke knob, as mentioned above, won't stay pulled out. Just slides right back in. Do need to buy a new cable?

Congratulations on a job well done so far!

If your choke knob is mounted in the centre below the ignition switch (and not under the left hand handlebar switch) you can tighten the choke as follows to prevent it from sliding back down:

Remove the rubber cover pad over the centre part of the handlebar. Just below the choke knob is a small round rubber cover - pull this up to expose a round knurled plastic "nut" below the round rubber cover. Twist the knurled plastic nut a little in a clockwise direction. This increases friction on the choke cable assembly. If the choke knob still does not remain out, twist the knurled plastic nut a bit more clockwise. Do this until the choke knob stays out, but can also be pushed back down again without too much force.

Move the rubber cover over the knurled plastic nut back down, and replace the central rubber handlebar pad. You should now be good to go with a well-behaved choke knob, enabling you to leave the vice grips in the toolbox !

Your cold start procedure should involve ONLY pulling the choke out and pressing the start button. DO NOT twist the throttle, as this immediately overrides the vacuum generated in the choke enrichment channels in the carbs, and will only result in making the bike more difficult to start.

Good luck with tweaking the rest of the little "to do" things, and ride safe!
 
Base Motorcycles

Base Motorcycles

Wow, Buells? All we have supplied by the state for the courses I teach (all over the state), 13 bikes per trailer, TU250s (new training bike of choice, they're sweet), some GN250s (they're getting retired this year), Yamaha dual purpose fat tire bikes (can't ever remeber their designation, they're 250s), Suzuki dual purpose 250s, and I think some of the trailers down in the twin cities have some horrible Kymco 250s still (failed purchase experiment). We might still have some Honda Shadow 250s as well and couple of rotten old Kawasaki 250 cruiser style bikes as well lurking somewhere.
My first BRC of the season is next week in St. Cloud (90 miles to the south of me, road trip!), classroom on Wednesday, a double on the range Sat and Sunday. I'll be sore and tired Monday night. Today is the 6th day I've been able to ride :Dthis "spring", if you want to call it that. People are still ice fishing around here.....:eek:

Yep, mostly Buells but they had other brands but Idon't remember what they were.

I'm getting lots of seat time on my "T" right now and that's my goal. Considering I waited until I was in my 40s to learn how to ride.

Ed
 
Congrats!

Congrats!

And now, the moment you've all been waiting for (well, the moment I've been waiting for), the first test ride!

Got home from work, chowed down a quick dinner, and went out into the garage. At this point, the bike has a clean air box, a new air filter, clean carbs, proper valve clearances, rebuilt forks, a bunch of new seals all over the place, a full fluid swap, new battery, new tires, and lots of other little things that I deemed too minor to mention in this thread. Little to no cosmetic work so the bike is still butt-ugly, but at least it's decently maintained now. Having just refreshed my newbie riding skills at the MSF course over the weekend, I myself was in as good a shape as I could hope.

I was semi-confident the engine would run right. It seemed to run great right after I rebuilt the carbs, but after messing around under the valve cover, I was hoping I didn't mess something up. It started, eventually, but I spent a fair amount of time just getting it to idle right. The choke knob kept sliding in... I had to clamp it with a pair of vice grips just so I could have both hands free to start the engine. Shut it off, checked and topped off the engine oil per the service manual.

I then spent a few minutes worrying about the clutch. Although the cable was adjusted properly, it never seemed to disengage the wheel from the engine. With the engine running, the transmission in first, and the clutch pulled in, I couldn't stop the wheel with my boot. Shut the engine off and tried to free it by rocking the bike back and forth in first. That seemed to help somewhat, but it was still dragging quite a bit. Oh well, I guess I see how it works out in the street.

Did a final inspection, threw the seat on, and went in to grab my gear. At this point, I had about 30 minutes of usable daylight left. I waddled the bike out into the street and spent a minute finding the friction zone. (The clutch finally seemed to free itself at this point.) Aight, time to fly. Rev the throttle, ease out the clutch, and away we went! Down the street, around the block. In first. Then second. Then third. Then fourth. Huh, I'd never been in fourth gear before! This is a ****load more bike than that dinky GZ250 from the MSF course.

Behind my house there's a small subdivision where they built a few roads, but hit the recession before any houses went up. There are barricades up to prevent cars from getting in (although that doesn't stop some), making it the perfect place to do a few short runs and turns. I spent a good 15 to 20 minutes tooling around back there. Wife, dog, and daughter walked back to say hi and take advantage of the warmer-than-expected evening.

So I was pleasantly surprised and happy that my cheap craigslist winter project bike runs pretty well. I didn't do any cosmetic work, so it's still ugly, but I'll try to get some kind of "after" shot up later anyway for posterity. For now, this is all I have. The photo below is very grainy, but keep in mind that it was almost completely dark at this point (the image has been brightened quite a lot just to see anything):

charles-on-bike.JPG


The good:

1. By all accounts, this is a big heavy bike but sure didn't handle like it, even at low speeds. In fact, I thought it handled pretty great. I tried not to push it though, on account of having brand-new tires.

2. I was very relieved to see the clutch work itself out.

The bad:

1. The choke knob, as mentioned above, won't stay pulled out. Just slides right back in. Do need to buy a new cable?

2. The front suspension seems awfully bouncy just pushing on it with the front brake held in. It doesn't bottom out but I feel it should be stiffer. Might have something to do with the fact that I couldn't figure out how to get 8.5psi of air //accurately// into the forks. Thankfully the forks in their current state didn't bother me at all just tooling around the neighborhood. I guess that could change at speed, particularly in curves or rough patches of road. I will probably upgrade to 20W fork oil and/or possibly swap out the fork springs with progressives in the future.

3. The throttle doesn't respond like I think it ought to. There's a very noticeable delay between twisting the throttle and and engine actually revving up in the low end. When rolling off, it takes a few seconds to come back down to idle. Mid-range seems much better but not quite perfect. Did not test high RPMs for obvious reasons. It seemed to get a little better after a few minutes of riding, but maybe I was just getting used to it at that point. Perhaps I need to adjust the carbs? Mixture? I plan to do plug chops eventually.

4. With the decade of dust and oil on the cooling fins and headers, she smokes like a chimney! I did my best to blow and wipe away what I could but I guess I still need to point the business end of a power washer at it. As well as some simple green and scrubbing.

In summary, this was a good day. From here on out, I'll just chip away at the few issues left and ride the thing. Woohoo!

Nice write-up!

You sounded very excited about getting her out on that first ride and I was right there with you. The Choke Cable on mine would slip too but once I tightened the screw that held it in-place all was well.

The way you described the gradual advancement through the gears...like I said, I was right there with you. I've been riding quite a bit lately and the rebuilt clutch is not as tight as it once was. All it takes in daily usage to loosen her up...so get out there and ride when the weather is great and also before the sun goes down. Hopefully, you can get out early on a Saturday morning and enjoy the serenity of your bike.

I'm not too concerned about the cosmetics...I have different colored side covers on mine but my concern is to protect the electrics on either side. It's worked out great so far.

I'm sure you'll take more clearer pics...even though you might think the bike looks ugly right now, it's a gem. Get it into 5th gear and lean forward...these bikes have lots of power!



Ed
 
Good job! It'll take a while to work out the kinks, you'll find other things along the way as well. And, the oil burn off will cease pretty quickly (unless you discover another leak). You will probably have to torque your valve cover bolts a second time as well. Do it very carefully, all I do is use a small box end 10mm wrench, and put about an 1/8th-1/4 turn on them to snug them down. If you don'e, the valve cover gasket will leak.
I need a haircut, my wife says, so after I get done with the brickwork I'm doing on my fireplace (main floor renovation in progress), I'm going for a ride today, 60 mile round trip for a haircut....:D
 
Thanks for the kind words and excellent advice.

Re the choke knob: the knurled plastic nut on my knob is actually broken. I thought it was just there to hold the knob housing secure, but if that's what creates the friction for the shaft as well, that would explain why mine doesn't stay in. Guess I need a new choke cable.

Re the valve cover bolts: yes, I'll be sure to torque them down again. It's now on my TODO list.

Re the haircut: I have a friend who has been known to ride half an hour for his Sunday morning cup of coffee. :)
 
Im sorry to post a question on your forum. Im in the process of cleaning my carbs and im not sure if I can carb dip the needle valve seat and the starter plunger (choke).
Both have an o-ring thats none removable.
 
Im sorry to post a question on your forum. Im in the process of cleaning my carbs and im not sure if I can carb dip the needle valve seat and the starter plunger (choke).
Both have an o-ring thats none removable.

yes you can....

just don't dip the diaphragms, remove those

this is also assuming yout not using any realy caustic.....as your dipping solution...

.
 
Thanks for the fast response., as im dipping each carb jet's as we speak.
An im using berryman chemical dip.. I've read multiple times on forums not to dip anything plastic, or o-rings.
As I mention my suzuki gs850glz has an o-ring on the needle valve seat attached in the center of it. Wouldn't the dip ruin this. Also thought I mention, the o-ring on the valve seat is pretty used up. Is there a way to place new o-ring?
 
Welp, I took it out for a second spin around the neighborhood today...

I got the tach drive gear in yesterday and very nearly scrapped the bike. I had the valve cover off to remove part of my tach drive plug and dropped one of those teeny-tiny nuts down into the cam chain tunnel. After much wailing and gnashing of teeth, I got up the courage to find my mirror to have a peek down. By the Powers, it hadn't fallen all the way down. I counted myself VERY lucky since this is now the second time such a thing has happened. It took some doing to figure out how to snatch it out of there but I eventually settled on a neodynium magnet attached to a thick feeler gauge. Three extremely careful tries and it was out.

I will never NOT stuff a rag down into the cam chain tunnel, even if the cover is off for only five minutes, pinky swear. Not onto the rest...

On the previous run, I had the idle set way too high. I didn't realize how high because I didn't have a working tach. So today before I took it out, I dialed it way back and added some slack to the throttle cable. It still idles a little under 2k and hangs around 2.5k while out riding so I think I'm lean. But then again, it starts real easy with not much choke, and I can push the choke all the way in after 15-20 seconds of running, so maybe it's rich? I'll have to do some troubleshooting in this area; right now my suspicion is on the carb's mixture screws. After I got back to the garage and shut the engine off, I pointed my nifty new infrared thermometer at area where the pipes join the head. Around 300 degrees (Fahrenheit here) on number 1 and 2 and around 400 degrees on 3 and 4. Not sure what it means yet, but I would think a 100 degree difference is worth noting.

Oh yeah, and the speedometer broke. I noticed it start to whine while I was riding around and made a mental note to take it off and lubricate it. A few minutes later, the needle was gone. So it seems as though I am destined to have either a working speedo or tach but not both. :(

As for my riding skills... I need much practice. Getting moving from a stop, especially when turning at the same time, is definitely my weak area. Haven't stalled it yet, but I attribute that to this bike's extremely smooth clutch with it's enormous friction zone. I am starting to have more confidence in these new tires, however.

And finally, I did forget to take an "after" picture of the bike yet again. Next time, I promise!
 
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Eil did you remove your carbs butterflies when cleaning your carbs?
Im dipping my carbs in barryman dip, an im not sure if that would harm the butterflies.
 
I did not remove the butterfly valves when cleaning my carbs, but word on the street is that they'll be fine. Only dip the carbs for as long as it takes to get them clean and you should be alright.
 
Had a little treat last weekend...

The fam and I went up north to my wife's place for her parents' 50th wedding anniversary. I got put on grilling duty (as always) when a good friend of the family, Bob, sidles up and asks me how my rebuild is going. He says he's thinking of buying a road bike sometime soon. Then proceeds to tell me about one of his friends who restores old bikes.

Oh reeeealy?

Bob offers to take me up to his friend's place and I'm like, is right now too soon? After the shindig he gets a hold of his friend and we drive across town. He introduced me to Chris. This is some of Chris's current stable:

20130505_140655.jpg


He says he'll rebuild just about anything that looks cool but he seems to have a weakness for 60's Hondas and Super Hawks in particular. His work is meticulous. Here's his current masterpiece:

20130505_140450.jpg


This thing is flawless and just looks totally badass. Even if it wasn't all shiny, it looks like a handcrafted piece of art compared to the Honda CBs of just a few years later. I don't think I've seen a finer gas tank in all my life.

20130505_140542.jpg


Apparently Chris only started doing motorcycle restorations five or so years ago. While trying to find parts, he evidently ran into some wealthy old collector who has literally hundreds of old Hondas in various states of quality and has recently worked out a deal with him: The guy sends Chris two bikes to work on at a time. Chris restores them both to identical showroom-quality condition. When they're done, Chris sends one bike back to the Honda gentleman along with the parts bill and gets to keep the other bike as payment for the job!

I asked him if he ever enters his bikes in shows and he said not really. It's not that he doesn't want to, he just doesn't have the time. Like most of us, I imagine the balance between work, life, and motorcycles doesn't leave a lot of time for much else. He didn't mention where he sells the completed projects, but he did say that he's never in a rush to sell and is fine with admiring the bike and waiting patiently for the right buyer to come along.

Here's his current project:

20130505_142157.jpg


He says he's going to turn it into a red, white, and blue cafe race of some sort. The frame has a silver ceramic coating. Almost looks like chrome from a distance. I forgot to ask what model this was, but I noticed it had new aftermarket Mikuni carbs.

It wasn't until after we were on our way back to the in-laws' house that I remembered all the good questions that I should have asked him. (Unfortunately for me, I'm very shy when meeting someone for the first time.) If only Chris didn't live almost three hours away from me, I'd beg to apprentice for him! Oh well, hopefully I'll run into him again.
 
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What I did to my speedo on test ride #2:

20130430_203459.jpg


I'm in talks with a member to buy another one. Hopefully he'll be able to ship it soon. I'll definitely have to lube that one before install to spare it from the same fate.

And then on Sunday, I went for test ride #3. Here are the "after" photos I've been promising for weeks:

20130505_204729.jpg


20130505_204755.jpg


Doesn't look half-bad from about 10 feet away... with your glasses off... in the shade. Except for the disaster that is that seat. Still debating over whether to try and tackle it myself with vinyl pleather from the hobby store or drop the coin on a new cover. I'm not sure about a cover because I sorta think that the foam might have been modified to make it a wider seat. Where does one buy new seat foam anyway?

I'm also doing some tweaking of the carbs to get the mixture right across all four cylinders. Details on that are in another thread. One of the mixture screws is giving me grief, so I'll have to replace it. And I may have to remove the carbs again in order to double-check the float heights.

Insurance and registration are in the works.

And finally, the front suspension is pretty bouncy. I'll order and install new progressive springs at some point when the budget allows. Anybody have a favorite vendor for those?

After these are addressed, the bike will pretty much be where I want it. This isn't my dream bike by any means, so I probably won't hold onto it for too long. This season, maybe next. But it is my first and taught me a lot so far. And it still has more to teach me before the summer is through!
 
After spending 9/10th of the weekend laboring for the wife in the back yard (new flower beds and whatnot), I managed to squeeze in another ride at the end of the day.

I still haven't gotten around to fine-tuning the carbs and checking for air leaks. But at least it's properly insured and licensed now, giving me the courage to leave the neighborhood and get the bike up to speed at little bit.

Revs climb pretty steadily until around 4.5k RPM and then it's like flipping a switch. A big fat red one with a label on it that says, "hey you, get the lead out". And it does.

I'll get used to running it up, I'm sure. But the biggest thing that had me concerned was the wind. The current handlebars are from a G model so they have quite a bit of vertical rise. I'm 5' 10" or so and they have me sitting almost completely upright. At 50mph (guestimated, my speedo is still broke) or so, the force of the wind pretty much had me hanging on for dear life. My fingers still ache a bit from that. Leaning forward helped a little, but that crunched up my arms and made it impossible to steer.

I have some daytona bars (at least that's what I think they are) that I'll probably try out to see what difference they make. The main thing I didn't like about those was that they appeared to be narrower (hand grips closer together) and I'm not sure if that's what I want.
 
Daytona bars is what I have on mine, I think. I'd prefer euro or GP touring bars on it though. They're a little straighter too, so you don't grip the throttle diagonally so much.
 
My new speedo came in. Major thanks to new_guy... I asked to buy the speedometer, he sent me a whole dash cluster! Which came in very handy as I needed a few extra parts off it.

20130516_221140.jpg


I was originally a little discouraged that I'd have to calculate the bike's new mileage in my head, but when I took apart the old speedo (to see if it could be fixed), I saw that someone had cut a hole for the reed switch that goes the self-cancelling turn signal unit. Meaning the broken speedo already came off some other model! No clue on the actual mileage of this baby now! But at least I have a trip meter reset knob.

I took apart the old one to see what was inside and if I could fix it. Found out that the hole for the reed switch is pretty much all the access you need to lube the gears inside. But otherwise, the internals of the old one are toast. Bearings on the input shaft are worn or rusted (or both) which caused the squealing and allowed the magnet wheel to hit the speed cup, which is how the needle broke. Plus the gears leading to the odometer were pretty worn down.

The new speedo seems to work great. Squirted some lithium grease in through the reed relay switch hole for good measure.

I also tilted the handlebars forward a little, to see if that helps with countering the wind. It made a big difference. I'm reasonably comfortable at 60mph, but now my arms get tired from being held up so high. :P I'll still swap on the daytonas at some point.

I noticed amongst some other tinkering that my choke knob cable had no slack, leaving the choke partially engaged with the knob pushed all the way in. I was hopeful that maybe this would solve my low-end idling and power issues. It helped, but not much. There's still something else going on.

So anyway, my current biggest issue now is this. The bike starts, idles, and runs just fine to begin with. Responsive throttle, gobs of power. It needs a small amount of choke to start, but I'd say after about 30 seconds it idles fine with close to none. However, after about 20-30 minutes of riding, I have a loss of power on the low end (under about 4k) and a high idle. This makes starting from a stop sign or intersection very difficult because I either stall it or rev it up so high that I feel a little out of control until I get up to speed. Especially problematic when turning. Is this indicative of a lean condition? (If so, probably means I have an air leak somewhere.... yay.)

Last night I rode around the neighborhood for about an hour and used something like 1/3 a tank of gas. Went 28 miles in total, although much of it was acceleration and deceleration. I guess it's probably normal to burn through a ton of gas under those circumstances. Except for the low power issues when hot, I'm starting to have much more confidence in the bike.
 
Sounds like a lean condition caused by worn out o-rings and or hard intake boots. The high idle is a typical symptom. Replace the intake boots if they are not pliable and replace the intake boot o-rings as well.

When the bike heats up it is causing the boots or o-rings to leak.
 
Sounds like a lean condition caused by worn out o-rings and or hard intake boots. The high idle is a typical symptom. Replace the intake boots if they are not pliable and replace the intake boot o-rings as well.

When the bike heats up it is causing the boots or o-rings to leak.

Yeah, I kinda suspected it might be the intake boots. I didn't replace them when I pulled the carbs because they seemed to be okay at the time. (And more importantly, run about $100+ for the set.) I did put new o-rings under them, though.
 
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