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1981 gs750 (gs750e) Retro Racer project

Well, it isn't christmas without a gift from me (and sometimes my wife) to my motorcycle :) This year it was the nicest gift since the brake master/clutch. Most of the stuff I get for my bike is either pretty cheap to buy, or they're cheap because I make them myself. And to start, the bike itself was as cheap as they come. The most expensive parts so far are the m-unit and the Accossato brake master and clutch levers. Second is the Motogadget Mini and the rear wheel. The Cognito Moto front wheel that I bought this year probably costs the same as all of the others added together. It certainly cost more than the bike itself.


On the other hand, insurance for the GS750 is next to nothing and compared to the insurance on the Kawasaki Zx7-R I drove when I got my license, the Cognito Moto wheel costs about two years worth of insurance. Better to give the money to myself ;) Just realised that what you have been witnessing in the last few sentences is me justifying to myself the process of bying a ridiculously expensive part for my bike :o


Anyway..I've been looking for cheaper ways to convert to GSXR front fork with spoked wheel. There are other companies that make conversion hubs for motorcycles and most are even more expensive than Cognito Moto. Most of the time they are also far from being as complete a package. I thought of milling one myself, but there's not much room for errors and as T8erbug (thegsresources) said, aluminum blocks that size are so expensive that it doesn't make sense when you factor in errors and do-overs. Another option was a Harley front wheel or buying just the hub from CM and sourcing the other parts myself. I know Harley wheel is only 1mm or so narrower. Used Harley parts aren't as cheap in Norway as they are in the US. Adding to this is the price of special spokes. The cost of other options vary wildly, but the CM spokes are really high quality and looks great.


The last option was to make new front axle to convert my original front wheel. This would be a good option if I didn't want to use a radial fork. The radially mounted calipers sits closer together than older brake setups. On the original GS fork there's already little room between the calipers (depending on wheel size, some use GS1000 calipers with the tapered back to get the wheel to fit).


Long story short; I could probably, with a substantial amount of work/time spent making contacts/sourcing parts/money spent on parts that I didn't need/money spent on materials for adapters and so on, make a front conversion wheel for something between 50 to 75% of the price of the CM wheel.


The way the situation is now, that time is better used working overtime at my regular job and using the extra money to buy a preassembled CM wheel. It's certainly a satisfying feeling to have made something like this (I've alredy made the rear wheel from parts :) ). On the other hand, you can't take away the feeling when you unpack such an awesome product as the CM wheel.


Conclusion/TLDR: You can not go wrong with buying the Cognito Moto front wheel. The quality is awesome and if you factor in your own hourly rate, I don't think you can make it cheaper (unless you are a professional).
 
And here's a couple of pictures of the wheel/GSXR rotors and the custom Cognito Moto steering stops I bought with bonus points from buying the wheel. The unboxing experience really is premium and the wheel comes with soft cloth "showercaps" on both sides for protection. The bolts and steerings stop come in separate small cloth bags that are tied to the spokes so it wont get lost ine the styrofoam pellets.


Cognito Moto Gsxr Wheel by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


Cognito Moto Gsxr Wheel by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


Cognito Moto Gsxr Wheel by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


Cognito Moto Gsxr Wheel by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
 
Made a new drawing of the front wiring. The current setup is a bit messy, and with the new fork/headlight, I just as well redo it all. Too many wires together makes the loom stiff, and I'm grouping the wires by maximum five.I'm also running the wires inside the clip-ons this time, including the front brake-switch.

Wiring front by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
 
Got a couple of hours in the shed today. First task was cleaning the calipers from the new forks. I'm going to paint them black, so they will have to be really clean. All pistons move ok, and the pads are not too worn. Maybe I'll change pads anyway, now that they are out. It feels better to know what I kind of brakes I have. I can keep the others as emergency backups. As usual, a before/after photo:


Top triple by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
 
As you can see in the previous post I've used some high level CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to visualize the placement of the fender. The fender is an aftermarket fender for the ducati Monster, and originally looks like this:
Ducati Monster fender by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


Since I'm using the 19" wheel (and because I think the original design looks backwards), I'm going for somthing like this:
616aaaa0930fe1857a1c9cc4ec933ca9 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
 
I don't know if this makes sense to you, but I wanted to see if I could fit the Motoscope mini into the GSXR-triple. When I bought the Mini, the plan was to use the original front. Then the new triple would have looked like this:
1ce10b547c10b4652240c67235888d93 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


There isn't room to place the Mini in the center of the Gixxer triple, but there is room for it on the opposite side from the gear indicator. I've cut a piece of paper the same size as the Mini, put it on the backside of the triple to position it between the support ridges. Then I've flipped the picture and layered it with opacity on top of the other picture.. Like this:


Backside:
Triple by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


Frontside:
mini by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


It doesn't look as cool as when it's mounted in the center, but until I have access to a cnc router again it must be good enough..
I think it would look better with the instrument lights under the Mini.
Not sure of how I want to do this, so I'm open for suggestions :)
 
Did a quick photoshop of what the triple would look like with the Mini and lights. I first did some sanding on the triple to brake up the shapes and to match the "design" with the tank and tail. I think I'll go with this.


Top Triple by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
 
Thought the Cognito Moto design of the indocator lights were much prettier than the big lights I used the last time. Drilled holes for 3mm 3V Leds, countersunk the holes 2mm and tested. Pretty satisfied. I did a test at a spot where I'm gonna remove material for the Mini anyway, just in case, but as I'm going with the design I'll position the holes below the Mini. Like in the picture I photoshopped. Here's a video I did to show the visibility of the LED (and some cheesy mobile editing ;) )


 
Well.. stuff always seem to happen. My father in law bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D printer a while ago. He was the one who printed the "speedo converter" I designed:

IMG_20200416_223222 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I ended up with another solution, but at least I now know I have the skills to design parts that are printable ;)

A couple of weeks ago, he handed med the 3D printer. It had become an object of annoyance to him, as he never got it to work well. He recently moved into a new house, and had decided he didn't want to use any more time on it. It is now mine, if i print some parts for him now and then. I've gotten the printer to print perfectly now (took some work), and it's an awesome tool to have at my disposal. But what do you do when you have a machine that can make parts of alomst any shape? You make another cool machine :) Looking for solutions, he upgraded the controlboard, and he gave me the old board with the printer. I bought 5 used stepper motors for 20$, and the rest of the parts on Ebay for about 120$. If everything goes well, I'll have a CNC-router capable of milling aluminum at the cost of about 150$ As I have access to a lathe at my dads, the ability to make cool parts for my bike should now only be limited to my own CAD-capabilities :)

Heres a picture of the printer:
61P-97ejclL.jpg


Here's a picture of the parts I'm printing:
IMG_20200906_131845_480x480.jpg



And here's a picture of what the router will look like. Most People in the US use Makita or DeWalt, but I'll print a tool holder for the blue Bosch grinder I already own. It's the same power as the Makita, 27k rpm and variable speed. Should mill alu with no problem;

Lang versjon by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I'm really exited to add these parts to my shop, and I thought it would be cool to post about it. I'll make som updates on the bike soon :)
 
Couldn't resist trying to make my first 3D printed part for the bike :D

First, I made a 3D model in Fusion 360:
2021-03-22_09-53-00 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

Then printed it. The print quality is awful, because of low quality setting and bad preparations. Just wanted to test if the measurements are right. I also wanted to test using supprts for the horisontal "roof". That worked flawlessly, and the supports are easy to pull away from the model:
IMG_20210322_225039 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
IMG_20210322_224705 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr


The part is a housing for the underside of the top triple. It will hide the wires and protect the backside of the Motoscope mini and gear indicator.
IMG_20210322_224554 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr

I'll have to make it a cpuple of mm smaller. I didn't take into account that the edges taper about a mm. Aside from that, I'm pretty satisfied. I wont do another print before the fork is on the bike, in case I'll have to do other modifications.
IMG_20210322_224644 by Lars Krogh-Stea, on Flickr
 
I'm looking to replace the switchgear. I need 3 buttons (non-latching push-buttons) on each side.
The setup I currently have looks like this:





I don't like the ergonomics at all.. especially the button on the back is a pain to reach with gloves.
I know they have another version that looks like this:

and I've seen other manufacturers do something similar:

Of those two, I think the last option is the best.


I'll be designing my own set of switches (first by 3D print, then cnc-milled aluminium) and I've been looking at Superbike-style switches. They seem to be disigned around the "swiping radius" of the thumb for better ergonomics, and I think they look pretty cool:



What do you think? Does anyone have a link to something cool that also works well?
 
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