brake to drag the wheel

[waltergs1000]

Hi everyone, I'm wondering if it's normal for the brake to drag the wheel like in the video. This winter I made a lot of changes, replaced the triple three, the axle had always been crooked, replaced it with the one from the gs1100g 82, perfectly compatible (and I eliminated the ugly syringe choke), opened and cleaned the brake calipers, silicone grease on the pins, completely bled, cleaned the master cylinder. Also changed the mudguard. Forks perfectly straight. Everything fits perfectly, but it seems to me that before the wheel turned more freely than this. What do you think?
gs1000g 1980
sorry my english
​

 

[Nessism]

That drag looks fairly normal. Maybe a little more than average, but not unusual.

When you cleaned out the brake system did you also change the brake lines? If not, they should be changed because scale develops inside the line as the years go by.

 

[dgates1]

Looks normal to me. After you put some miles(km) on the pads should settle in.

When you cleaned the MC, did you make sure the relief hole was not clogged? Smaller hole in the MC closer to the brake line.

If it still drags after some miles(km), then I would look at the seal inside the caliper around the piston. Can get sticky and not let the piston go back into the caliper freely.

 

[waltergs1000]

thanks for the advice, I've already done thirty km and I have to say that it brakes really well, also thanks perhaps to Nos pads, better than modern ones, I don't think there are problems with the small hole in the master cylinder, the bike would lock up when braking I think. I haven't changed brake lines but before bleeding no problem. I replace dot4 every year in spring, inside the tank everything is transparent. First I check the gasket inside the caliper around the piston, I noticed that by tightening the caliper pin screws very hard it seems to free up a bit, even if I don't understand why. I'll update you

 

[dgates1]

Suzuki does recommend changing the brake lines every 2 years for the OEM rubber ones in the maintenance section of the manual.

 

[rphillips]

Funny, some things we can find to read... Rekon if a Dealer has a left over model bike that's 2 yr. old in the showroom, Will Suzuki require that dealer to replace the brake hoses before they sell it???... Every 2 yrs., does anybody agree with 2 yrs?

 

[dgates1]

Agreed! Can't have someone suing you because your brake lines failed, I guess...

 

[waltergs1000]

oops, mine are the originals too

 

[waltergs1000]

last night I went to the garage and tried this:




- removed one caliper at a time from the wheel, tried to press the brake lever, the pistons advance and return well.

wet with a little dot4 before pushing the piston back into the caliper.

- replaced the support plates on the fork

- silicone grease on the caliper pins

- very light copper grease behind the pad

- loosened the mudguard, wheel axle and fork half-moons, closed everything again without the mudguard

- opened the master cylinder and cleaned again




the result is as before maybe slightly better, I will drive a bit and then check, in any case I am quite calm because you said that it is normal like this
​


https://youtube.com/shorts/GsaO7pDUKhw
​

 

[salty_monk]

Looks pretty normal from here...

 

[Cipher]

last night I went to the garage and tried this:




- removed one caliper at a time from the wheel, tried to press the brake lever, the pistons advance and return well.

wet with a little dot4 before pushing the piston back into the caliper.

- replaced the support plates on the fork

- silicone grease on the caliper pins

- very light copper grease behind the pad

- loosened the mudguard, wheel axle and fork half-moons, closed everything again without the mudguard

- opened the master cylinder and cleaned again




the result is as before maybe slightly better, I will drive a bit and then check, in any case I am quite calm because you said that it is normal like this
​


https://youtube.com/shorts/GsaO7pDUKhw
​

Are the pins clean? The ones on my bike get packed with dust. They get a wear mark inhibiting pad return.
I polish with 800-1000 silicon carbide wetted abrasive paper.

 

[waltergs1000]

yes, shiny pins. Rubber works well. I remember that I used to spin the wheel to see if the speedometer works, if I do it now it stops before I get to look. There is something that doesn't convince me. I have to try it on the road, but if it is a small hole the master cylinder should block the wheel (happened with the rear wheel) instead fortunately it does not happen, as said the caliper outside the disc you can clearly see the piston moving forward and back when I release the lever. The lever is nice and firm not sponge. First of all I try to look at the small hole in the master cylinder by removing the plastic tank, then bleed again and then see if the pads settle on the fly.

 

[waltergs1000]

Now it works much better, I disassembled the white tank of the pump to check the operation of the return hole, it's ok.




https://youtube.com/shorts/5hi_RBadpmU




I wonder why that white tongue, if it wasn't there there's no need to disassemble anything.




I bled it again, first the left caliper, only a few micro air bubbles came out, then the right and first 2 cm of old brown liquid came out (? I completely disassembled the calipers 2 months ago). Then I bled the left and all the air came out and then the right again. Was it perhaps the old liquid that blocked the braking? Was it positioned on the Y of the brake lines or on the caliper? Very strange because I disassembled and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and compressor. Now the wheel is free as usual.




https://youtube.com/shorts/IRk2dfeEODo

​:encouragement: