Earl's Brake Line Thread

[Nessism]

The old thread on making brake lines was outdated so this update is offered instead.

Earl's parts are made in USA. No Chinese junk here. The pull off force for the bolt together lines is higher than machine crimp lines too so don't worry about failure (as long as you assemble correctly).

You can see a video of the assembly process here.


To make brake lines we need Speed-Seal -3 hose and 3/8 / 10mm hose ends.

There are two basic types of hose ends: adjustable and non-adjustable. Adjustable allow easier angular clocking once the hose ends are attached to the hose but the non-adjustable type are nothing to fear in that regard and they save some $. If you go adjustable you only need one end adjustable per section, not both.

Before ordering parts you first need to decide if you want a three piece set for the front (like OEM) or two piece. Two piece saves labor and money for the parts.

For most GS applications the following hose ends will work:

Straight adjustable hose end (banjo) is P/N 600403
Straight non adjustable hose end is P/N 600703
Angled adjustable hose end is P/N 600503
Angled non adjustable hose end is P/N 600803

Be sure to order enough hose. It takes about 8' to make a 3-piece front set + rear line.

You can reuse your stock GS banjo bolts but be sure to get new crush washers.


The following set of lines cost $89 + tax for the parts.

Check out the crud inside the old lines!

P1010650 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010652 by nessism, on Flickr

New Earl's parts...

P1010654 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010657 by nessism, on Flickr

Tools...

P1010656 by nessism, on Flickr

 

[Nessism]

P1010660 by nessism, on Flickr

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Look down inside the ferrule and make sure the inner teflon liner is fully seated down to the step inside the ferrule.

P1010698 by nessism, on Flickr

 

[Nessism]

P1010672 by nessism, on Flickr

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Shove the hose on firmly while tightening the nut. Tighten almost all the way, but stop just short so the hose end can be clocked with the other.

P1010676 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010677 by nessism, on Flickr

 

[Nessism]

Whack the chisel with the mini sledge...

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Install the other hose end and pay attention closely to the clocking position. I used non adjustable hose ends but they work out fine. You just need to be careful to stop a little short of fully tight so you can get the clocking right.

P1010688 by nessism, on Flickr

Repeat everything three more times and...
Some heat shrink tubing can be used to cover up where the vinyl coating was removed. Next time...

P1010705 by nessism, on Flickr

P1010706 by nessism, on Flickr

 

[Nessism]

And before anyone posts a comment about Rennsport lines, please don't. This thread is about Earl's lines and how to make them.

 

[Guest]

Nice job. About how much did it cost?

I think it would have been a nice touch to refurbish and reuse the wear spring on the new rear hose to keep the stock look.

 

[Nessism]

Nice job. About how much did it cost?

I think it would have been a nice touch to refurbish and reuse the wear spring on the new rear hose to keep the stock look.

The set shown was a little less than $100 for the four line set including tax.

 

[Sandy]

Great tutorial Ed. FYI in the last year I installed 2 sets of off the shelf brake line kits and while the quality and price were pretty good the fit of the lines from the master cylinder to the splitter have to be pretty exact because they are really stiff and the ends don't move creating quite a pain to reroute anything and get things bolted up. If you make your own you won't run into this problem. Next time I'll be building them myself.

 

[sam000lee]

I can attest to Earls lines having made a couple (with help from Ed). It's really pretty easy and they come out looking/working great.

 

[Charlie G]

And before anyone posts a comment about Rennsport lines, please don't. This thread is about Earl's lines and how to make them.

Thanks for putting this together, I think I'll go this route next time. I'd like to see you "sell" it a bit more. Some aren't going to fully understand how the "value" is with Earls.

 

[Nessism]

Value:

- You can pick whatever hose end angles you desire. This is particularly valuable when using non stock handlebars and/or a master with the fluid port in a different position than stock.
- Length is up to you. Again, this is particularly important when moving to different handlebars.
- All parts made in USA
- Pull off force for screw together lines is higher than crimp lines (per the owner of AN Plumbing).
- Price is good. 4 piece line kit can be made for about $100.
- Fancy colored anodized aluminum and uber durable stainless steel hose ends are available if you desire such things.
- Making your own lines is FUN!

 

[storm 64]

Thanks Ed for the instructions and pictures. I think I'll go this route next time also. The ones I bought at that other place I wont mention. The "clock" was off about 15 minutes (90?) on the line from front master cylinder to the coupling block. It still worked, but the line did not lay like it should have. You see in the attached picture how the line makes a funky bend...

 

[Nessism]

Thanks Ed for the instructions and pictures. I think I'll go this route next time also. The ones I bought at that other place I wont mention. The "clock" was off about 15 minutes (90?) on the line from front master cylinder to the coupling block. It still worked, but the line did not lay like it should have.

Getting the clocking just right is desirable for sure.

In case the above is not fully clear...

Install the hose-end nut on the hose end and spin it until it stops and then use a sharpy to mark the full tight spot on the hose end and one of the nut flats. When installing the hose end, stop 1/2 turn short of fully tight. Don't worry, at this point the ferrule and teflon liner is fully seated inside. Now install the second hose end, after likewise marking, and watch your clocking as you come up to full tight. Between the two ends you can get the clocking perfect even when using non adjustable hose ends. Or get one adjustable hose end per assembly and disregard everything I just said. Either way works!

 

[Sandy]

Question ED. Does the vinyl outer sheathing float or is it more or less fixed in position, as in can you slide it to one end and then just shrink tube the other end instead of both?

 

[Nessism]

The coating doesn't slide Sandy. If you are careful you can minimize how much you cut off though. It just gets more fiddly with getting the olive/ferrule installed inside and seated.

 

[Steve]

Looks good, Ed, I just have a couple of questions. :-k

1. You show a metal block with a couple of holes in the "tools required". I only saw it used as a cutting anvil. Is that all it is?

2. I did not see any link to a source. Are these parts easily available virtually everywhere, or is there a preferred vendor?

This is on my list of things to do this winter, on at least two bikes. I think the third one was done before we got it.

.

 

[Nessism]

Looks good, Ed, I just have a couple of questions. :-k

1. You show a metal block with a couple of holes in the "tools required". I only saw it used as a cutting anvil. Is that all it is?

2. I did not see any link to a source. Are these parts easily available virtually everywhere, or is there a preferred vendor?

This is on my list of things to do this winter, on at least two bikes. I think the third one was done before we got it.

.

Aluminum block is indeed a cutting anvil. You can cut the hose other ways too as shown in the video link such as using a dremel cut off tool. If you use one of these cut slow though because the heat will be high.

The original post has links to a source. Please go back and check close since the links are hidden inside the text.

Good luck

 

[BigD_83]

A nice, clean upgrade of the previous information. Great photos, clear directions.

If it isn't a sticky yet, it should be.


Thanks for taking the time to post it up, Ed.

 

[Steve]

The original post has links to a source. Please go back and check close since the links are hidden inside the text.

Thanks. I saw the text, did not notice it was a link, because I have underlines turned off in my browser.

.

 

[Guest]

Did this on both my bikes. Easy, solid, cheap, and you are left with some knowledge and a new skill. One thing to add, if you are into neatness, you can slip some heat-shrink onto the lines before assembly then shrink it over the cut plastic coating and hose end to seal it from any crud getting between the plastic and steel sheath, on the black lines it looks very neat and finished.