Chain missing an O-ring.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

For a few weeks now I’ve been trying to track down a faint, but perceptible “lub-dub.......lub-dub” under my butt which seemed to coincide with each chain or rear wheel revolutions. Rear tire is new and I see no irregularity there. Multiple cleanings of the chain and re lubing, I can sort of see a link Here and there sort of kink a little after it comes around the front sprocket. Chain is properly adjusted 1” of deflection at the middle point between front and rear sprockets.

Closer inspection today revealed I have an oring missing from 1 link.

Would this be enough to cause the faint “lub-dub”?
Chain is a 630.

I seem to remember having a new chain and sprockets put on maybe 15 years ago. I didn’t start riding the bike a lot until about 2 years ago. Sprockets are still in real good shape but I’m pretty sure this chain needs to be replaced.

Staying with a 630 seems to make sense since I’m not going to change sprockets. A quick online shopping trip tells me I’m looking at about $150 for an o-ring chain.

Any type or brand recommendations?

edit to add:
I’ve been riding like this for a few weeks, not very far. But is it safe to keep riding with this chain?

 

[Gorminrider]

I don't use O-ring or X-ring chains. Thanks for showing me why(among other dislikes)
so I can't say about the noise either.
If the chain is old,worn and thereby stretched, or if the rubber rings have aged-out (15years) yes, you would need a new one. The other orings might be soon to rot off. These days, thrift is out of fashion, but I was told many years ago, two chains per sprocket set is normal maintenance....so I'd give the sprockets another go.

or, if you think the chain is not worn and the other rings ok, maybe you have enough links in the chain to remove this link and feel better about it?

otherwise, It won't make you feel better riding it, but as a theory, I don't see that it effects the strength. And, unless the alignment of the two sprockets give it a twist as it lands on teeth, it'd take a long while to do any harm to the o-ring behind it wearing away too, assuming it is holding the plate in place now.

 

[Nessism]

Not much you can do about it. I'd keep running it assuming the chain is not overly elongated.

When the time comes I'd change up and go 530 X-ring chain. Realize that the sprocket count is different with 530 so do some homework before ordering. A quality X-ring chain will last for a ridiculously long time. Chains are one of those things that have drastically improved as the years have moved forward.

 

[rphillips]

lub-dub.....lub-dub isn't from the missing "O" ring, that usually comes from a kink or tight spot in the chain. My opinion would be keep it lubed so the rest of the "O" rings aren't rubbing on dry surfaces & you should be good. How bad you want the lub-dub....lub-dub to get before you replace it is a personal decision. Good luck.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So yesterday before going for a ride, I cleaned the chain really well with kero and a new 3 sided chain brush, then lubed with

When I put the bike on center stand and run it in first gear, the chain hops less than it did before, and on my ride I noticed the lub-dub feeling was less, but still present.

But it's still is a bit unnerving.

So, I'm shopping for a 630 Chain. I don't want to got to 530 right now. Ed, I'm not ignoring your advice, just think I want to wait on converting to 530 chain and sprockets, as the sprockets seem to have a lot of life left in them. I would really like some opinions on what type will be good for me. I ride in a lot of dirt/gravel roads, so not sure is a regular non-sealed (is that the right terminolgy?), an O-ring, or an X-ring chain. Don't want to break the bank, but not looking to cheap out either. So what brands to look at?

 

[1978GS750E]

I always replace the chain and sprockets as a set! Seems like a new chain on old sprockets would just wear out both faster!

 

[Gorminrider]

I use old-school chains and I prefer DIDO (which are not the cheapest). Clean often, oil with gear oil....they seem to last a long time.

If I were a rubber seal fan, I'd probably still go for DIDO.

I always replace the chain and sprockets as a set! Seems like a new chain on old sprockets would just wear out both faster!

To me,it depends on the sprocket wear. But the sealed chains cost more and sprockets are a smaller proportion of a total refresh, so I can see your point investment-wise...

But the plaudits of sealed chains don't add up for me. They are heavier and stiffer so they rob a bit of horsepower. Then, assuming the rubber is sealing dirt out, now you have to lubricate the rubber with expensive concoctions with theoretical efficacy to stop IT wearing and losing that seal. It all seems a bit baroque and expensive to me....

 

[Nessism]

It seems your bike came with 15/41 sprockets and a 96 link 630 chain.

In 530 the translation would be 18/49 and 116 link 530 chain.

Looking online suggests you should be able to pick up a full chain and sprocket setup for your $150 number.

This chain seems pretty good for the money...https://www.amazon.com/RK-Racing-Ch...GHGC59E7ASJ&psc=1&refRID=G6Z7TKSPVGHGC59E7ASJ

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Thanks Ed. I appreciate your help. Do you know if I convert to 530, would I need any kind of spacer or something either inside or outside of the front sprocket, or rear sprocket. Maybe this has been covered elsewhere.

 

[Nessism]

I can't remember about the spacer. If one is needed it would go outboard of the sprocket.

BTW, Z1 Enterprises has some good info on the sprockets. You might want to check them out. I think you would need a JTF513 18 tooth and a JTR816 49 tooth. Please double check me though...

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Ok, I didn’t understand the conversion math so I tried to educate myself a little. I found a site with a converter. The 18/49 530 works out to a drive ratio of 2.722, which seems as close as I can get to the original drive ratio of 2.733 with the 15/41 630.

Chain Calculator

630 (6 eighths = .75) I’m learning the lingo.

530 (5 eighths = .625)

The Z1 numbers you listed check out, a 6mm spacer was shown to be needed with the front sprocket. There was also a 1.5mm spacer on the same page. I’ll get both maybe. Just in case. Outboard of the front sprocket makes sense.

The chain you linked on Amazon looks like a good deal. 120 links so I’ll have to take some out. Which means buying a breaker tool. Figured I may as well get one that can rivet as well. Then no more clip-on master links for me. So this is a tool I have in my cart. Thoughts?

 

[Steve]

Skip the 530 chain, get a shaft. :-\\\

.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Skip the 530 chain, get a shaft. :-\\\

.

I'm thinking about it. Maybe the first to have a 16v 750 in the US (or the world?) with a shaft drive. Hmmm, I'm gonna need a bigger hammer, and maybe a new adjustable wrench.

 

[Nessism]

That chain breaker is sold under various name brands. Realize that you have to grind off the head of the pin you are driving through. Do that and you should be fine. Alternate to that is to buy a chain of the proper number of links. That seems more expensive than the 120 link chain though for some reason.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I don't have a grinder per se. But I do have a dremel (type) tool. I have a large assortment of bits but not sure what to use to attack a chain rivet head. Clues?

 

[Nessism]

I don't have a grinder per se. But I do have a dremel (type) tool. I have a large assortment of bits but not sure what to use to attack a chain rivet head. Clues?

A dremel will work well. Use a stone or fiber reinforced cut off wheel and grind the head off.

 

[dorkburger]

Yep, spacer on the outside when doing the 530. I did mine last year.

 

[Gorminrider]

If you're going to buy the rivetting tool, you could also buy a single "master " link and replace the bad one...

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you're going to buy the rivetting tool, you could also buy a single "master " link and replace the bad one...

That's a good thought too. But I believe the 630 chain on the bike is at the end of it's life, and it's my own fault. (things that go wrong with my bike typically are). While the kinks are not that bad yet, the chain does hop about at a few places as I look at it run in gear on the center stand. The more reading I do, I've come up with a theory. When I had the bike completely disassembled a few months back, I put the whole chain in a pan of kero and promptly forgot about it for a few days (at least) while I spent my days and nights prepping/painting the frame, scraping gaskets, rebuilding the top end of a donor engine, ordering parts, ignoring my family. I had every intention of cleaning the chain as soon as I took it off the bike, but.... I Have no idea exactly how long it was soaking in that pan of kerosene. I think I'm just now starting to see the orings go bye-bye. So. It's time to change.

 

[bwringer]

That chain needs to be replaced ASAP. When one o-ring goes, the others aren't far behind. At best that one link is going to wear out very prematurely. I mean, if you were 500 miles from home, you could certainly finish the trip, but I wouldn't leave the garage with a chain in that condition.

Personally, I'd move to a quality modern 530 x-ring chain and sprockets, which will probably be the last time you'll need to fool with them for many years, if ever; with only a little cleaning and lubing once in a while with that DuPont spray (it's great stuff), you will easily pass 30,000 more miles with no adjustments.

Modern x-ring chains are amazing feats of engineering, and it's rather senseless not to take advantage of 40 years of advancements in chain technology, metallurgy, and manufacturing.

But if you're 100% certain the sprockets have no detectable wear, then you could buy a new 630 o-ring chain and enjoy for however much longer it lasts.