Does the 1980 GS750E really need the second front brake.

[2stroke]

Today I twisted off a brake bleeder and in the process of extraction I got into the aluminum. The bike is one that I am continually looking for ways to make it lighter. So at least for the time being I removed the right side caliper and am running it on one disk. Is the one side front disk sufficient for this bike and has anyone else gone from 2 disk to 1?

Thanks,

2Stroke
nthego:nthego:nthego:

 

[RichDesmond]

Today I twisted off a brake bleeder and in the process of extraction I got into the aluminum. The bike is one that I am continually looking for ways to make it lighter. So at least for the time being I removed the right side caliper and am running it on one disk. Is the one side front disk sufficient for this bike and has anyone else gone from 2 disk to 1?

Thanks,

2Stroke
nthego:nthego:nthego:

You’ll likely need a different M/C with a smaller bore. As it sits now you’re getting about half the braking force for an equivalent hand squeeze, compared to stock.

 

[LAB3]

Its all a matter of how well you want to slow down I guess. Weight is always a consideration but how much does a caliper and brake line really weigh? Coming from someone with a single disc up front I'd add another one if it where cheap and easy in a heartbeat, seems to me that eBay should become your best friend soon.

 

[Brendan W]

Back in the early eighties there were 750s and 1000s going around with one disc. It worked fine.
I recall a lot of talk about single stoppers twisting the forks. Maybe part of that was true.
Anyway twin stoppers got fashionable and that was that.
However, apart from the plumbing issue you may have with the m/c you also have a bike with a safety feature, brake, removed.
If the worst happens the technical report on the bike will not look good.
Remember, bureaucrats count things. They don't have a rat's ass clue nor care how or even if they actually work.
I would get a replacement caliper, or two, in a heartbeat.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I've been wondering why Suzuki decided to go with single front disk on the 82 750T, when other models of the 750 in earlier years and the same hear had 2. I don't have any complaints, especially since rebuilding the MC, caliper, and installing new braided hose. It's the only street bike I've ever owned. (Actully, I owned a Honda 125 that was given to me for a couple years but that does't count. I could have stopped that bike with my feet, Flintstone style.) You don't know what you don't know. But I'm pretty sure I'd be stopping even better with dual front disk brakes.

 

[Steve]

The “T” bikes were sort of an ‘economy’ or ‘commuter’ model. To fill that role, they went cheaper and lighter weight wherever they could. One front disc, slightly smaller tank, taller gearing in the final drive. All to save a couple pounds, make it cheaper to produce or get you just a little more fuel efficiency.

.

 

[GSXR7ED]

I've been wondering why Suzuki decided to go with single front disk on the 82 750T, when other models of the 750 in earlier years and the same hear had 2. I don't have any complaints, especially since rebuilding the MC, caliper, and installing new braided hose. It's the only street bike I've ever owned. You don't know what you don't know. But I'm pretty sure I'd be stopping even better with dual front disk brakes.

The single disk is bigger than the duel disks...I noticed since I did buy a set-up to convert to dual disk from an 82/1100.

I didn't ride in a way that is caused me to brake hard "all the time". And the braking did improve once I replaced the original line with braided.

My bike is lighter after replacing the dual pipes with the V&H/4-1...it will be lighter when I do the 530 conversion too. Manual says bike weighs about 500 pounds...those dual pipes weighed about 30-40 lbs and I'm sure the chain's weight is minimal but still sheds a little weight.


Ed

 

[bwringer]

If the worst happens the technical report on the bike will not look good.
Remember, bureaucrats count things. They don't have a rat's ass clue nor care how or even if they actually work.
I would get a replacement caliper, or two, in a heartbeat.

There's no such thing as an after-accident investigation like that in the US. Texas and many other states don't even require helmets, and the only legal restrictions on your riding attire are public indecency laws.


But anyway, giving up any significant slice of your braking power on a GS is, to be blunt and impolite, pretty stupid. I say this with all the love, respect, and concern in the world, but removing a caliper to save weight is just a bad, terrible, and double-plus ungood move.

Post in parts wanted for another caliper or scare one up on fleaBay. There are zillions out there; the same caliper body was used on lots of GS models, with different caliper brackets for different forks. There are also thread insert kits available at any decent auto parts store to re-thread the bleeder screw hole.

Yes, usable GS single disk brakes are out there, but it's a different caliper, master, and disk, and overall they still don't work nearly as well. With decent modern pads and braided lines, dual-disk GS brakes are quite good.

 

[Guest]

what he said; personally I wouldn't want to reduce the already middling braking power of a gs....

There's no such thing as an after-accident investigation like that in the US. Texas and many other states don't even require helmets, and the only legal restrictions on your riding attire are public indecency laws.


But anyway, giving up any significant slice of your braking power on a GS is, to be blunt and impolite, pretty stupid. I say this with all the love, respect, and concern in the world, but removing a caliper to save weight is just a bad, terrible, and double-plus ungood move.

Post in parts wanted for another caliper or scare one up on fleaBay. There are zillions out there; the same caliper body was used on lots of GS models, with different caliper brackets for different forks. There are also thread insert kits available at any decent auto parts store to re-thread the bleeder screw hole.

Yes, usable GS single disk brakes are out there, but it's a different caliper, master, and disk, and overall they still don't work nearly as well. With decent modern pads and braided lines, dual-disk GS brakes are quite good.

 

[2stroke]

Thank you all for taking the time to reply. I rode the bike yesterday and the breaking power on the front has declined a bit. I use to be able to stop on a dime but now can stop on a nickle. I have always used down shifting so that helps when it is not an instant stop. However I will be replacing the caliper in the near future.

Thanks again,

2 Stroke
nthego:nthego:nthego:

 

[Guest]

[h=2]Does the 1980 GS750E really need the second front brake.[/h]

Well, technically, ... it doesn't need that fourth cylinder, either.

Personally, I think it would be equally foolish to give up either one.

 

[salty_monk]

If you really want to save weight put a CBR F4 rotor on it & a twinpot brake caliper. You'll save weight & gain power. Personally I like to use two of them....

 

[standswithabeer]

bleeder screws usually come out with with heat, pb blaster and patience but they do fail from time to time. some folks use a banjo fitting/bleeder combo with success, if there is a next time.

https://www.jpcycles.com/product/22...MIvLeG876b4gIVA1gNCh3SmAPrEAQYAyABEgI-efD_BwE

 

[2stroke]

The bleeder must have been about to break anyway. It twisted off way too easy. I have been doing a lot of bleeding on it within the last few months. I am wondering if there is a later year bike that has a better caliper that will fit this bike and disk?

Thanks,

2Stroke (aka David)
nthego:nthego:nthego:

 

[Grimly]

The bleeder must have been about to break anyway. It twisted off way too easy. I have been doing a lot of bleeding on it within the last few months. I am wondering if there is a later year bike that has a better caliper that will fit this bike and disk?

Thanks,

2Stroke (aka David)


nthego:nthego:nthego:

1980 should have seen the later calipers fitted, but if your's has the earlier hockey-puck type of pads the later caliper will fit straight on. There are still thousands of low-milage calipers out there that are hardly worn at all, and when they're stripped and re-sealed, with modern pads are better than new.

 

[cowboyup3371]

Or just go with Salty Monk's twinpot upgrade

 

[salty_monk]

If you really want to save weight put a CBR F4 rotor on it & a twinpot brake caliper. You'll save weight & gain power. Personally I like to use two of them....

As I said above.... I like to use two. You save a lot of weight in the rotor swap. Caliper is about the same.

Also if you want a set of the later model GS caliper I have a set (actually still sealed to the master cylinder). Rebuilt and new pads with about 1,000 or so miles on them.

 

[bobgroger]

As I said above.... I like to use two. You save a lot of weight in the rotor swap. Caliper is about the same.

Also if you want a set of the later model GS caliper I have a set (actually still sealed to the master cylinder). Rebuilt and new pads with about 1,000 or so miles on them.

And not trying to cut in to Salty Monk's gig but I ended up with 2 of his kits and 1 set of Kawi calipers I don't need....