How to remove master link?

[Guest]

I have heard of failure from Rocks just perfectly hitting the link and knocking the circlip off. I always install the clip so that the open end points to the rear of the bike if its on the bottom of the loop...or faci ng the front of the bike if its on the top. However one chooses to view what I mean.

I didn't want to get in or this tit for tat over chains, but your putting the clip on wrong. The open end should be pointing towards the rear sprocket when on the top of the chain run, not the bottom.

 

[chuck hahn]

I was taught the other way around. Reasoning was that the chain was inside the guard at the top and exposed at the bottom. If road debris happened to come up and hit the clip it would be hitting it ONTO the pin and not off of it. Less chance of a clip knock off that way.

 

[Guest]

The interweb never lies.

The interweb never lies.

A motorcycle chain Master Link has an open and and a closed end on the retaining plate, and you always want the closed end of the Master Link retaining plate to be facing the front of the bike when the chain is on the top of the swingarm.Feb 11, 2017

 

[chuck hahn]

Im staying with the way ive done it forever. Maybe thats why i havent had one knock off yet??? Does this Jeremy guy think it has something to do with it falling off due to stretch or somthng??

I searched a few of the chain bike manuals on Bikecliff and there wasnt a mention of the clip..maybe because all they showed were continuous riveted chains???

 

[Guest]

Im staying with the way ive done it forever. Maybe thats why i havent had one knock off yet??? Does this Jeremy guy think it has something to do with it falling off due to stretch or somthng??

I searched a few of the chain bike manuals on Bikecliff and there wasnt a mention of the clip..maybe because all they showed were continuous riveted chains???

I've never had any issue with them coming off, but we did have a customer with a Busa that they said it did. I don't know which way it was facing. The chances of something coming up from where the front tire and hitting the link on the outside of a chain is pretty remote.

As the chain is rotating on the underside of it's path it is practically staying still with the passing ground as it is moving in the same direction. The real speed where it would make a difference would be on the top side where it is moving forward and objects are passing by, like rocks and branches while riding a dirt bike which have no guards.

 

[Fjbj40]

I have used both rivets and master-link with no failures in either, but to be honest I prefer the rivet links.

And how exactly did they prove a rock knocked it off?

I have heard of failure from Rocks just perfectly hitting the link and knocking the circlip off. I always install the clip so that the open end points to the rear of the bike if its on the bottom of the loop...or faci ng the front of the bike if its on the top. However one chooses to view what I mean.

 

[storm 64]

I've had a clip style master link failure on my 1100e. I've told this story before but it keeps getting better. I was hanging out with friends at the Stagecoach. Then this chick says "The Clarks are playing tonight in Pittsburgh" The Stagecoach is right by the Ohio/Pa Turnpike. Since it was already about 7:00 I knew I had to haul butt if I was going to make the show. Cruising the turnpike at about 80mph, this Volkswagen Wolfsburg addition pulls next to me thinking he was going to pass me. I hit the throttle, he matted the pedal and the fun began! I was in 5th gear wide open, we were neck and neck for about 5-10 miles! He slowed down to get off the highway. I slowed down cause I didn't want to go to jail. I made it to the show, the Clarks were great.. On my way home I would hear a clanking sound every now and then. Not knowing what it was I took it easy. When I got home I started to look things over. Here the clip that holds the the link together was gone. The link plate was gone. The link that holds the chain together was bent in a way that kept the chain together. The clanking sound was the link hitting the chain guard now and then. From then on I always use the rivet type master links. You never know when you're going to have to race a Wolfsburg addition Volkswagen!

 

[Guest]

You should always do sprockets when you do a chain. Why in any form of common sense would you use a worn sprocket thats not gonna mesh well with a new tight chain and wear the new chain out faster than lightning can strike?? Why would you do that???

I agree if your paying someone to replace your chain once every few years that would be the most economical way to extend the longevity of the "drive system". Total cost of the "drive system" on and old Suzuki is what? Maybe $160 bucks for the chain and sprockets.

Ebay has changed the economics for some of us.

I have two Yamaha FZ1s that are identical. Additionally, I have one spare set of wheels that I trade between the two bikes.

That's two bikes, three sets of wheels, three rear sprockets, and two chains in all. The not mounted set of wheels always has a new set of tires to put on either of the bikes.

The spare set of wheels gives me the flexibility to go to the local tire changer on my schedule and not be in a rush. So every 7K miles or so when the radials wear out, the drive systems gets interchanged as well. Never noticed any drop in the 25K miles I expect from a D.I.D.chain. New D.I.D o-ring chains are $130 to $160 by themselves. New OEM Yamaha sprockets are $38 rear, $25 front.

So how does Ebay play into this? Many sport bikes like the R1 use the same type of chain i.e. D.I.D.116 link / 530. They don't have to be exactly 116 links they can be longer you just need to loop off the excess.

D.I.D. chains easily go 25K miles, I got 30K out of the last one. You can buy used chains for $30 or less on Ebay. I always look for crashed sport bikes with less than 5K miles that have the odometer in the adds as well to prove mileage. I'm never in a hurry, just pick em up when I see them at a good price.

I just bought a sprocket, rear drive hub with bearings including the rubber cushions off a crashed FZ1 for total cost $30 shipped. The bike had 1500 miles on it. Those parts would have been $230 new.

225,000 miles later and never had a problem with used chains, on used old sprockets or new sprockets.

To para phrase the Geico adds "Saved a ton of money on drive systems, going up country."

I keep my eyes and ears on the "drive system" if I see or hear wear the part gets replaced.
If I have a new part I use it, if I have lightly used part I use that.

 

[Fjbj40]

I agree if your paying someone to replace your chain once every few years that would be the most economical way to extend the longevity of the "drive system". Total cost of the "drive system" on and old Suzuki is what? Maybe $160 bucks for the chain and sprockets.

Ebay has changed the economics for some of us.

I have two Yamaha FZ1s that are identical. Additionally, I have one spare set of wheels that I trade between the two bikes.

That's two bikes, three sets of wheels, three rear sprockets, and two chains in all. The not mounted set of wheels always has a new set of tires to put on either of the bikes.

The spare set of wheels gives me the flexibility to go to the local tire changer on my schedule and not be in a rush. So every 7K miles or so when the radials wear out, the drive systems gets interchanged as well. Never noticed any drop in the 25K miles I expect from a D.I.D.chain. New D.I.D o-ring chains are $130 to $160 by themselves. New OEM Yamaha sprockets are $38 rear, $25 front.

So how does Ebay play into this? Many sport bikes like the R1 use the same type of chain i.e. D.I.D.116 link / 530. They don't have to be exactly 116 links they can be longer you just need to loop off the excess.

D.I.D. chains easily go 25K miles, I got 30K out of the last one. You can buy used chains for $30 or less on Ebay. I always look for crashed sport bikes with less than 5K miles that have the odometer in the adds as well to prove mileage. I'm never in a hurry, just pick em up when I see them at a good price.

I just bought a sprocket, rear drive hub with bearings including the rubber cushions off a crashed FZ1 for total cost $30 shipped. The bike had 1500 miles on it. Those parts would have been $230 new.

225,000 miles later and never had a problem with used chains, on used old sprockets or new sprockets.

To para phrase the Geico adds "Saved a ton of money on drive systems, going up country."

I keep my eyes and ears on the "drive system" if I see or hear wear the part gets replaced.
If I have a new part I use it, if I have lightly used part I use that.

Agree 100% with this. I have in the past just replaced a chain, or a sprocket, and it has not worn any of the unchanged parts faster than lightening can strike.....

 

[Guest]

We change just chains all the time at work. It depends on the wear if the sprockets get changed or not. Someone that over tightens their chains will cause more wear on the sprockets than someone that neglects tightening them. I would have more concern if the rear sprocket is aluminum though. This one I definitely changed and is so sharp I decided to save it and hang it on my wall. I'm saving this one for the Zombies.

 

[earlfor]

I didn't want to get in or this tit for tat over chains, but your putting the clip on wrong. The open end should be pointing towards the rear sprocket when on the top of the chain run, not the bottom.

Chuck, Rick is absolutely correct about the clip orientation on this. Do a search. It is important that it is installed correctly.

 

[cloudbreakmd]

My new $14 chain breaker worked easily and perfectly after the dremel made quick work of the flared rivet heads. I was just overthinking it.

 

[exdirtbiker]

Chuck, someone out there has my Dad's 75 CB750 with engine case damage because the master was installed the way you think is correct.
Please don't do it. It makes it a lot easier for the oval clip to get popped off. Then BANG, you stuff half of your chain into your left case. Luckily, it was 1/4 mile from our house.
GSRick is right. The open end should trail, not lead as the chain moves.

 

[srsupertrap]

My new $14 chain breaker worked easily and perfectly after the dremel made quick work of the flared rivet heads. I was just overthinking it.

The $14 price is right happen to have a link to share? Loin Parts have very good prices and you can order direct or through EBay. Ordering their stuff through Walmart probably jacks up the price

Regarding the orientation of the master link, every chain I ever bought provides instructions which show the open end should be pointing towards the rear sprocket. IIRC, the original GS chain had no master link.