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JB weld - stable in gas?

pano

pano

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
TGSR Superstar
It says you can repair gas tanks with it. Any experience with JB wels in full contact with gasoline?
 
I have used it to repair a rust hole in a gas tank. It workd fine and is still holding after 10 years. Seal All also works well for pinholes and cracks. If you use either of these products, I suggest you clean the rust from around the area first.

The tank I repaired with JB Weld had a pinhole from rust. I drilled the hole out to about 1/16 inch then forced the mixed epoxy into the hole. I then turned the tank so that the hole was facing the floor and put a piece of tape over the hole so the epoxy couldn't run out. This also allowed the epoxy in the tank to spread out over a larger surface around the hole. After the epoxy cured, the little that was on the outside of the tank around the hole cleaned up well with a bit of sanding.
 
I once tried JB for sticking a broken post together in a float bowl. It was a waste of time. It held for a day. LOL Used to repair/cover a pinhole in a gas tank, it has worked fine.

Earl

pano said:
It says you can repair gas tanks with it. Any experience with JB wels in full contact with gasoline?
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
I once tried JB for sticking a broken post together in a float bowl. It was a waste of time. It held for a day.

Earl
Click to expand...

Did you ever find a good solution for fixing a broken float post? My application is VERY similar.
 
i use jb to fix my broken post it lasts about 2 years for me then i need to do it agian. i am sure there are better ways
 
The only thing I found that lasted would only work if the post had been broken in nearly even halves. I filed both of the broken/jagged ends of the post so I had two flat ends. Then with small drill bits, drilling in steps, work up to a hole large enough to thread a short length of 4/40 rod into.
(cut the head off a short 4/40 bolt to make a 4/40 threaded rod). That let me rejoin the post halves and with the threads, I could adjust the overall post length so that the float pin lined up between/across the posts. Set the rod into the posts with red loctite. I never had to redo one.

Earl


pano said:
Did you ever find a good solution for fixing a broken float post? My application is VERY similar.
Click to expand...
 
I had my post welded at the machine shop down the road from me. Looked ugly and had to grind some off in order for it to all fit together, but I am sure it will last a good while. Truely hasn't been system tested yet. Bike is still being resurected.

Has anyone ever filled the pits on a caliper piston with JB Weld? Curious, since the one I currently have apart has a handful of them.


Rick
 
Just brok a post on my #4 carb 550L. Had a spare rack of 750 L carbs, removed #4 put the guts from the 550 carb into it and will install it into the rack tomorrow. Will let you know how that works out.
V
 
When I broke a float post and my JB Weld repair failed, I drilled a little hole in each end and inserted a slightly larger section of a nail then jammed it all together for a good tight interference fit. That held.
 
I don't know about JB Weld being impervious to gas as I have never used it. Another product that does work with gas is plumber's epoxy putty available at Home Depot or plumbing supply places. It is a two part epoxy in a putty format. When mixed together it hardens to almost stone . It can be drilled and sanded.

I know that this works as I made a sample and immersed it in gas for over 2 weeks. there was no deterioration. Subsequently, I filled holes in my 650's gas tank which are holding well over 18 months later. I also used it to sort out some pin holes in my GS's gas tank as well.

I think you could use it for a repair inside a carb as I know folks on the XS board have fixed some cracked float bowls with it.

Cheers,
Spyug.
 
If 'JB Weld' is an epoxy compound (and forgive my ignorance here folks, but it's not a product we get by name here in Oz!), then technically it should hold its own in gas. But if your surfaces are not *absolutely* clean, then it'll let go.

Some ingenious work mentioned in earlier entries, chaps, for fixing broken float posts. Good stuff. :wink:
 
Yeah JB Weld is epoxy. Has aluminum bits suspended as well I believe.
 
I used JB Weld on an FJ1100 tank a while back and it worked OK. It didn't last forever but it did last a couple of years.

My buddy tried it on his tank and it only lasted a few months. He ended up having someone weld his for pretty cheap money and it's been fine ever since.
 
rpickle said:
Has anyone ever filled the pits on a caliper piston with JB Weld? Curious, since the one I currently have apart has a handful of them.
Rick
Click to expand...
a bike that won't go won't kill you, one that won't stop...
Don't.
 
Bad idea! Most likely a quick way to be on your face, sliding across some asphalt.

Earl

 
I would like an epoxy fix because it is easy but I think a mechanical fix is the way to go. I would hate to have the epoxy decide to take a day off when I am 300 miles from home.

I called Mikuni today and was told people use epoxy with mixed results and there are services that will machine a billet post and fasten it with a threaded stud.

Mikuni offered to exchange the ones I have for a brand new set at cost. I may just do that.
 
I did not use JB Weld, I used Quicksteel (similar product) to replace the stripped out drain plugs on my carbs. Made a thin line, fed it through the hole, and smushed it down on inside and out. It's been in full contact with gas for over a year now and not so much as a seep. Quicksteel states on the package that it is designed to be used to repair gas tanks, so if JB states the same thing, I would trust it. If it doesn't, look into Quicksteel as an alternative. I bought it at Autozone for a few bucks.
 
Used JB Quick to repair broken housing on carburator on 1939 Allis Chalmers B. It held for the 5 or so years I had it after that.
 
This JB Weld is the finest miracle adhesive known to man. I've repaired
frames with it, and yes, repaired the fuel petcock on my FJ1100. It
holds well as long as it is cured for 24-hours. It is an incredible
cold-weld adhesive that is very cheap and available anywhere for
$5.00 !! It is impervious to most oils and gas, based on my own
experience. It will not stick to poly materials such as teflon or
plastic seat pans.

I love this product with all my heart and soul, as I can't get enough
of it. I would eat it if I could !! We can be proud this is an American-
made product made in the great state of Texas.

Thank God this was not made in China.
 
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