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New GS1100 G Restoration Project. Rebuilding my Dad's bike

I bet it'll just need the valve clearances checking, carbs cleaning, oil and filter and new plugs, new tyres, fuel tap and hoses, brake refurb, electrics sorting.....only one way to find out!
 
I picked up a 81 650E for very few $$ years ago because it was running on 3 cylinders,it need a petcock.Got my 85 750EF for very few $$ because it wouldn't start,it needed a petcock.See a connection?
 
Agemax - hhhmmm. Tell me more. Actually, if it's really bad news I'm not sure I want to know now the deal is done. If it really is a bummer, I can re-list it in few weeks. I would not expect to lose much on it.

Oh go on tell me the bad news.

Greetings
I'd have given you the same money for it for I was going to buy another, I think you did ok! And as already said valves, tyres etc... it should be OK.... and once it's ridden for a year and has some history you could sell it with tax and text for ?1300+ I think
 
I picked up a 81 650E for very few $$ years ago because it was running on 3 cylinders,it need a petcock.Got my 85 750EF for very few $$ because it wouldn't start,it needed a petcock.See a connection?

Yea I got my GS1000 super cheap because it only ran on 2 cylinders, one from clogged pilot jet, and the other from a bad petcock. Also it smoked from the rings sticking, the guy though the engine was shot.
 
Installing Head Races and Swing Arm Bearings

Installing Head Races and Swing Arm Bearings

The rebuild has begun. The tables have turned. I have been distracted of late because I bought another GS1100G and I have been getting that one road ready so that I can start riding again. (See: GS1100G - Road Runner Thread). But here we go. Head races are going in. I did not have much luck on my own (first one started going in sideways) so I went to get some expert help from a guy with a lot of experience and lots of tools.

See: My GS1100G Blog - Installing Head Races

First clean up the inner surfaces:

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Then use a 10 ton press.

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Then onto the swing arm. We used to other half as a bolster.

IMG_1014.JPG


In you go:

IMG_1012.JPG


The rebuild has started!

Greetings
 
I dont know what step you are on now.I hope you dont stop posting.I would have given up long ago if i had started with the mess you had.But it was your dad's which makes it more important.great job.I know now you can fully know how crappy japanese screws and bolts were.
 
Day 511 - Preparing Streering Head for Reassembly

Day 511 - Preparing Streering Head for Reassembly

It has been some months since my last post. But I have finally started back into the restoration of this fabulous bike.

I have spent quite a bit of time over the last 3 months getting my other GS1100G on the road so that I at least had a Road Runner bike to drive whilst this one was being restored. I estimate that I still need another 18 months at least to finish this bike and that was too long to go without having a bike on the road. See My Suzuki GS1100G Road Runner thread and My Suzuki GS1100G Road Runner Blog. So I now have 2 of these beasts.

I still have to do a clean up of the engine, probably with a top end overhaul, a repaint of the engine and a wiring harness overhaul. But in order that I can see some progress, I am going to put some stuff back on the frame.

So the next job was to prepare the steering head parts for reassembly. See My GS1100G Blog - Preparing Steering Head.

The steering head parts have been lovingly powder coated:

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I needed to remove the masking tape and tap out the holes where the paint had got in and polish up the bolts:

P1090573-001.jpg


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and I need to find a way to get this bearing seated. But first I need to find the washer that is supposed to be underneath it:

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Greetings
 
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You might need to clean the paint from the yokes where the fork tubes fit, I believe you have some nicely redone ones? Test fit them, I suspect they will be tight.
If you knew someone with a press you could shove that bearing down using a long tube, give it a smear of grease or oil to help it slip down. If you decide to pound it down using a tube and hammer remember you might spoil the powder coat on the underside of the yoke.
 
tatu - thanks for that. Yes, of course the powder coat will be inside the yokes. I will test fit them. Yes I have some lovely tubes to fit in!

Yes, pounding that bearing down does risk knocking the powder coat on the other side. I read somewhere that putting the thing in the freezer for a couple of days helps. I might just leave it until I have access to a press!
 
tatu - thanks for that. Yes, of course the powder coat will be inside the yokes. I will test fit them. Yes I have some lovely tubes to fit in!

Yes, pounding that bearing down does risk knocking the powder coat on the other side. I read somewhere that putting the thing in the freezer for a couple of days helps. I might just leave it until I have access to a press!

Used this to do the lower triple bearing on my 78 1000,couldn't get a piece of 1 1/4 pipe the right length.For that one it was 10 1/2 ".I put my triple in the deep freezer for about an hour or so and gently warmed the bearing on the oven,IIRC about 200 degrees.Still had to tap it down.If you can use the press it would be easy.
 
The oven (but not too hot) and the freezer trick works pretty well.

If you have to whack the bearing down rest the bottom on an old pillow or thick bit of sponge; it'll need a few more taps but you won't damage the PC.

And don't forget the grease.
 
How right you are. They are beautifully painted inside. Seems a shame to scrape the paint off:

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P1090611.jpg


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I tried putting the fork stanchion in:

P1090606.jpg


Clearly it was not going to go in. It was scraping the paint:

P1090613.jpg


Is this the best way to get it off?

P1090615.jpg
 
That's the way I'd go, use one that's about the same diameter as the hole you're trying to clean out.
 
De-painting The Inside of the Yokes

De-painting The Inside of the Yokes

OK let's get on with it. Here goes:

P1090618.jpg


P1090619.jpg


P1090617.jpg


Did a little on my thumb too. Just to see how much it hurt.

P1090628.jpg


They go in quite nicely now:

P1090624.jpg


P1090622.jpg


Buffed off a little of the exterior powder coat as well !! GGrrrrr !! But you won't notice it under the chrome badge holder that sits on the top of it.

P1090625.jpg


And I didn't clean out the grit when a did a test run pushing in the stanchions. Very minor scratching is the result:

P1090630.jpg


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Next time!

Greetings
 
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Looks ok, I see you found out why I would've used a flap wheel closer to the size of the hole... :)
 
Day 562 - Steering Stem Bearing Instal

Day 562 - Steering Stem Bearing Instal

I found a neat little tool to help seat this bearing on the stem. Do the usual tricks of putting the stem in the freezer, heating up the bearing in the oven and oiling the stem. Then use the fork stanchion turned upside down as the bearing driver. It's dimensions are just right to fit inside the bearing to put pressure on the correct part. I used a rubber mallet to drive it home quite easily. Be careful not to damage the delicate threads at that end of the stanchion as you put it over the stem.

P1100035.jpg


P1100036.jpg


It's a perfect fit

P1100037.jpg


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Home and dry

P1100034.jpg
 
Nice, following with interest. :clap:

You did remember the washer under the steering head bearing, right?
 
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