C
CivilRock
Guest
An 1150 motor weighs 189 pounds.
No oil or counter sprocket.
No oil or counter sprocket.
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C
CivilRock
Guest
Motor is in
Motor is in
I stayed up until 2am last night swapping the in the motor.
It all went pretty smooth to be honest. I hit 2 speed bumps that pretty much ended my night:
1. The exhaust header bolts are smaller on the 1150 so I couldn't bolt on the exhaust.
2. Theres some interference between the Counter sprocket cover and a frame element.
New bolts are easy, but the only solution I see for the CS cover is to trim it down a bit. The 1150 cover won't go on and that "ear" that I plan on trimming blocks the last engine bolt that I need to put in. Pictures probably tell the story better than I can with words.
-Kevin
I set the fuel tank and seat back on the bike just for safe keeping:
Here's what's stopping me from putting on the cover:
This is my plan of attack on the trim. I'll make it line up with the cut line on the tranny case. Hopefully it won't look too weird.
So this is basically Phase II of my master plan, and along with the 1150 motor I'm putting in some other goodies:
1. 1992 Bandit 400 clocks. (done)
2. 2003 Burgman handlebar controls. (there's a reason) (shipping)
3. Dynatek 2000 ignition/coils/wires (sitting in a box)
4. 1995 Katana 600 oil cooler. (shipping)
5. Mikuni RS 36 or 38 Carbs. (not sourced yet)
6. Digital Temp/Fuel/Volts gauge (not sourced yet)
It took me 9 years to get from Phase I to II. But Phase III someday will be:
1. .348 Cams
2. 1230cc Big Bore
3. Mild/Street Rod Head porting
Hopefully I'm not in my 50's when that happens.
Motor is in
I stayed up until 2am last night swapping the in the motor.
It all went pretty smooth to be honest. I hit 2 speed bumps that pretty much ended my night:
1. The exhaust header bolts are smaller on the 1150 so I couldn't bolt on the exhaust.
2. Theres some interference between the Counter sprocket cover and a frame element.
New bolts are easy, but the only solution I see for the CS cover is to trim it down a bit. The 1150 cover won't go on and that "ear" that I plan on trimming blocks the last engine bolt that I need to put in. Pictures probably tell the story better than I can with words.
-Kevin
I set the fuel tank and seat back on the bike just for safe keeping:
Here's what's stopping me from putting on the cover:
This is my plan of attack on the trim. I'll make it line up with the cut line on the tranny case. Hopefully it won't look too weird.
So this is basically Phase II of my master plan, and along with the 1150 motor I'm putting in some other goodies:
1. 1992 Bandit 400 clocks. (done)
2. 2003 Burgman handlebar controls. (there's a reason) (shipping)
3. Dynatek 2000 ignition/coils/wires (sitting in a box)
4. 1995 Katana 600 oil cooler. (shipping)
5. Mikuni RS 36 or 38 Carbs. (not sourced yet)
6. Digital Temp/Fuel/Volts gauge (not sourced yet)
It took me 9 years to get from Phase I to II. But Phase III someday will be:
1. .348 Cams
2. 1230cc Big Bore
3. Mild/Street Rod Head porting
Hopefully I'm not in my 50's when that happens.
Boy, I know that pictures can be pretty deceiving about heat marks on headers, but that header looks like it really got hot.
I dont know the details but I would figure that you could swap in a GS1100E sprocket cover. There is also a discussion on shift rods I believe. So before you start cutting wait on those inputs.
I dont know the details but I would figure that you could swap in a GS1100E sprocket cover. There is also a discussion on shift rods I believe. So before you start cutting wait on those inputs.
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C
CivilRock
Guest
When I first got the bike running and put on the V&H 4-1 it was super lean and blued the headers while I was tuning it. It does look like they're super scorched in the picture, but it's not that bad in real life. They're really dirty/dusty and look even white in the picture. I was pretty bummed about it when it happened to the brand new pipes, but se la vie.
I'd really like to keep the correct cover on the 1100 that I'm now selling. But I'll have to weigh my options. And I'll make sure it's going to work before I start cutting. I did some eyeballing before I put the motor in and it looked like there wasn't going to be any issues with the shifter length.
Yes, I appreciate the advice. I'll make sure I don't dive in and start cutting without really thinking it over. The bummer is that I can't even get the 1150 CS cover in place to check the shifter rod clearance. I'll have to do some test fits with the 1100 cover and compare notes.
-Kevin
blackhammer
Forum Mentor
Ive just done this motor swap as well, i used all my 1100 covers on the 1150, trimmed up the gear selector shaft hole as i thought that would be a neater finish than cutting into the 1150 cover.
If its already been mentioned sorry, but if your not using the 1150 with an oil cooler make sure you put the 1100 filter cover on it.
If its already been mentioned sorry, but if your not using the 1150 with an oil cooler make sure you put the 1100 filter cover on it.
C
CivilRock
Guest
Well, I looked long and hard at both CS covers and decided I wanted to modify the 1150 cover to work. My 1100 cover is polished, and I just sold the motor and it really needs to stay with the bike. Plus I think I can cut the cover and make it look factory.
I guess I failed to mention that I built a DIY reverse shift (GP Shift) adapter and I think it makes the swap line up better than it would have been without it. I can see how the angles would have been a little too much.
Anyway, the cover is modified, and in place, and I'm very happy with the results.
-Kevin
I guess I failed to mention that I built a DIY reverse shift (GP Shift) adapter and I think it makes the swap line up better than it would have been without it. I can see how the angles would have been a little too much.
Anyway, the cover is modified, and in place, and I'm very happy with the results.
-Kevin
Are you using the 1150 front rubber mounted engine brackets? I don't think they fit without modification, but makes a huge difference in vibration damping. I guess it's the larger 18mm wrist pins that make it vibrate more than a 1100.
G
Guest
Guest
I put an 83 motor in an 1150 and the rubber mounts fit fine.
I didn't know the 20mm wrist pins vibrated less.
Guess I got my mm wrong. I meant the 1150 had larger ones than the 1100. My 1150 front mount brackets did not fit my 83 Katana frame. I had to graft the rubber mount portion on to the stock Katana bracket.
C
CivilRock
Guest
I just used the mounting brackets that I have with the 1100. There's 6? mounting points, I'm amazed that rubber front brackets would make a difference.
I guess if I find that the vibration is excessive, I'll look into it. Do you have a picture of the mounts for me to check out? I'd like to see the difference.
-Kevin
I guess if I find that the vibration is excessive, I'll look into it. Do you have a picture of the mounts for me to check out? I'd like to see the difference.
-Kevin
I'll snap a photo tomorrow. Don't think I have stock 83 brackets anymore, only the modified ones.
gs11ezrydr
Forum Mentor
Correction The 1100's have 18mm wrist pins and the 1150's have 20 mm wrist pins Probably just a typo. Is a possibility though with larger parts going up and down. But never heard any one mention that aspect. This is one for the jury. :-k
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Here's a shot with rubber mount grafted onto stock bracket
Second shot is the distance between mounting holes. Looks to be 2 5/8", where the 1150 bracket in the 3rd picture is about 2"
Also the fact Suzuki added the rubber mounts to 1150's, must mean they were aware of it too.
Second shot is the distance between mounting holes. Looks to be 2 5/8", where the 1150 bracket in the 3rd picture is about 2"
Also the fact Suzuki added the rubber mounts to 1150's, must mean they were aware of it too.
blackhammer
Forum Mentor
Great job, looks very neat.
i haven't used rubber mounts, just the standard 1100 ones, didn't notice the vibration to be too bad in my limited riding time so far. Might have to look into it if you guys find it makes a big difference.
G
Guest
Guest
Hiya
It is more the balance factor and how straight the crank is. Also, if the clutch basket is balanced as well.
Laters
Greg
It is more the balance factor and how straight the crank is. Also, if the clutch basket is balanced as well.
Laters
Greg
C
CivilRock
Guest
Picture update
Picture update
Mounted and wired in my new clocks. Bandit 400.
Mounted new coils, cut/crimped wires, threaded new leads in frame:
Mounted new Dyna 2000 and raised battery 3.625". - Removing the airbox created a lot of new space and I never liked how the battery hung down. Now you can't see it.
Overall view, trying to show the raised battery box. This pic would make more sense with the side covers on. And maybe a "before" pic.
So I bought this set of controls from a Burgman hoping to use the numerous buttons for stuff: changing ignition curves, turning off the lights (stealth mode), smoke screen, oil slick, etc. but the thing is huge, and I'm not going to use it.
I already ordered some GSXR controls.
-Kevin
Picture update
Mounted and wired in my new clocks. Bandit 400.
Mounted new coils, cut/crimped wires, threaded new leads in frame:
Mounted new Dyna 2000 and raised battery 3.625". - Removing the airbox created a lot of new space and I never liked how the battery hung down. Now you can't see it.
Overall view, trying to show the raised battery box. This pic would make more sense with the side covers on. And maybe a "before" pic.
So I bought this set of controls from a Burgman hoping to use the numerous buttons for stuff: changing ignition curves, turning off the lights (stealth mode), smoke screen, oil slick, etc. but the thing is huge, and I'm not going to use it.
I already ordered some GSXR controls.
-Kevin
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Yes I would hope the engines are balanced and it is more of a tolerance issue than imbalance issue.
C
CivilRock
Guest
16mm to 14mm oil cooler adapters
16mm to 14mm oil cooler adapters
So I was planning on just buying some 14mm banjo fittings for the oil in/out ports on the motor and buying some hose and making use of what I could that came with the used 1995 Katana 600 oil cooler that I bought from ebay. The problem is that the Katana is all 16mm banjo bolts, and the 1150 is 14mm.
I had to buy one 10mm double banjo bolt to correct my brake set up, and it cost me $16. ($8 for the bolt, $8 for shipping) and it left a bad taste in my mouth. I also spent about 3 hours looking for a male 14mm to female 16mm adapter online with no results. So I took a gamble on a little idea I had to just make one.
I bought two 16mm x 1.5 nuts, and two 14mm x 1.5 bolts, and hoped that my drill bits would be strong enough to punch a hole through the length of the bolt.
It worked awesome. (Back in my supermoto days one of my friends GAVE me this mini lathe if I would fabricate him some wheel spacers. He couldn't figure out how to make it work. I have found just a ton of uses for this lathe, and I love it.)
Drilling out the bolt centers on the mini lathe:
The boring:
The other end:
Welded to the bolts:
The finished adapters:
In practice:
-Kevin
16mm to 14mm oil cooler adapters
So I was planning on just buying some 14mm banjo fittings for the oil in/out ports on the motor and buying some hose and making use of what I could that came with the used 1995 Katana 600 oil cooler that I bought from ebay. The problem is that the Katana is all 16mm banjo bolts, and the 1150 is 14mm.
I had to buy one 10mm double banjo bolt to correct my brake set up, and it cost me $16. ($8 for the bolt, $8 for shipping) and it left a bad taste in my mouth. I also spent about 3 hours looking for a male 14mm to female 16mm adapter online with no results. So I took a gamble on a little idea I had to just make one.
I bought two 16mm x 1.5 nuts, and two 14mm x 1.5 bolts, and hoped that my drill bits would be strong enough to punch a hole through the length of the bolt.
It worked awesome. (Back in my supermoto days one of my friends GAVE me this mini lathe if I would fabricate him some wheel spacers. He couldn't figure out how to make it work. I have found just a ton of uses for this lathe, and I love it.)
Drilling out the bolt centers on the mini lathe:
The boring:
The other end:
Welded to the bolts:
The finished adapters:
In practice:
-Kevin
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